resqman

Are those ceiling joists black from a previous fire?

Since a tankless does not store water, when the ground starts a shakin' there is relatively little water weight to worry about. The flex line could be useful on the West coast but you would need to check you install instructions for the particular unit.

This house had a whole house generator and transfer switch. Click to Enlarge 47.38 KB

Yes.

In the computer I create a folder for each year. Within each year there are folders Contracts and Reports. Both are named by date and number. 032310-01 01 is first one, 02 is second. Photos are stored in the photos folder on the computer. Each year has its own folder and the photos are stored in folders by date. Each inspection gets its own photo folder with an 01 or 02 at the end of the date. Maintain excel spreadsheet with client information. Backup to removal disk twice a month. Hardcopy of contract is stored in files by month and year.

Betcha there is some mositure intrusion behind those downspouts and pipe.

Here is a link to the North Carolina Licensing Boards recommended language for manufactured stone veneer. http://www.ncdoi.com/OSFM/Engineering/H ... Siding.pdf It should be built like traditional stucco with a drainage plane. What you have is wrong. Wrong in oh so many ways.

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I guess it depends on what each home inspector thinks is important to determine pricing and availability. The several counties I inspect in have the tax records online. I can type in the address and see a photo of the structure, the build date, square footage, deeds, past sales, owners names, # of bathrooms, and bunch of other stuff. I don't trust any of the information on an MLS listing even if I could access it. I want the clients name, phone numbers, email, property address, age of property, square footage, and available date/times for inspection. That is enough for me to quote a price and book an inspection. Buyers agent name and email is nice but not terribly important. My pricing is pretty simple. I guess if # of bathrooms, HVAC units, foundation type, affect your pricing, you would need to collect that information.

Ditto

Here in the South, the frost line is basically at grade. Dig down a foot so the footing is buried and start building the house. The cost of a full basement is considered prohibative. The only basements around here are walkout because the house is located on a steep slope and generally the house is 2500 or more sq ft. In the snow belt, you guys have to bury your foundations so deep, you are already digging most or all of the basement anyway. Adding a couple feet to the depth to make it a full height basement is small in the overall scheme.

Why would I want to be constantly running back and forth to fetch tools? That is the definition of professional? I use a small electricians pouch on a tool belt. Along the back there is a camera case. I use every tool in the pouch with the exception of the razor knife on every inspection. If I am heading into the attic, I am likely to need a moisture meter, a nut driver for the HVAC, a camera, a probe, and a flashlight. So I rummage through a tool box that is filled with all kinds of who knows what looking for the correct assortment of tools to cram into the pockets my pressed slacks. Once I get in the back dark corner of the attic, I realize I forgot the XXX or some tool falls out of the pocket to be swallowed up by blown insulation. That makes me more professional? I think that lugging around an oversized tool bag filled with gadgets that get used once every fifth inspection that I have to constantly bend over, tote to the next drop location, rummage around looking for the tool, and then begin to inspect the room less professional. I say it gives the impression you have a bag of stuff because you cannot organize yourself enough to carry just the essential items. Maybe I just don't have enough gadgets to be a professional home inspector. Lets just say I disagree with your assessment.

It reads almost as if written by someone who uses English as a second language. Reading your website is very difficult. You may be the most knowledgable roofing person in the world but you writing skills need improvement. As already mentioned, home inspectors don't sell or repair roofs. We inspect roofs for damage and provide a written report to home buyers about the condition. We will usually post photos of a roof we inspected. We usually want to know if the defects we see are the result of manufacturer defect or improper installation. This is an interactive forum. We post questions and answers here and do not usually call people for answers. This is where we want the questions and answers so we can all learn and share.

Where is the moisture meter and outlet tester? And what do you plan to use the vise grips for?

Tyvek coveralls with integral footies and hood 1/2 face respirator Mechanics gloves with leather palms "Patella" brand gel filled knee pads (well worth the $75) LED headlight Hand held pistol grip flashlight Camera left breast pocket Cell phone Occasionally carry survey tape to flag defects 90% or more homes in area have crawl spaces. Usually about 3 feet clearance at high spots and 18 inch clearance under ducts and beams. Homes less than 15 years old have pipes supported near joists, older homes have pipes at or near grade.

Almost everything costs more to fix than it used to. This has been coming for a while. R-22 is no longer being produced but supposedly there is an existing stockpile of the material. Puron based products have been on the market for at least 4 years. If the system is failing and still running Freon, it is likely due for replacement anyway. I don't offer warranties so I believe it has absolutely zero affect on me. It just seems to underline the idea that warranties are just another way to fleece money off people since they have a reputation of not paying for any thing anyway.

P2706.2 Standpipes. Standpipes shall extend a minimum of 18 inches and a maximum of 42 inches above the trap weir. Access shall be provided to all standpipe traps and drains for rodding. P2706.2.11 Laundry Tray Connection. A laundry tray waste line is permitted to connect to a standpipe for the automatic clothes washer drain. The standpipes shall not be less than 30 inches as measured from the crown weir. The outlet of the laundry tray shall be a maximumn horizontaal distance of 30 inches from the standpipe trap.

At the association meeting this week, an experienced inspector mentioned he arrives early to every inspection and sets up his ladder in the front of the house, even if he is not going to climb the roof. He feels that it is part of "the show" that the client expects from an inspection. He sees it as a form of marketing to the client, agent(s), and other attendees that he is prepared and capable. I always bring a drop cloth and spread it under the attic opening before I open it. That way if any insulation were to fall, it is easy to fold up the drop cloth and leave a clean house. Most of the times nothing falls but those few times when it does, no worries. It shows forethought, prepardedness, and respect. $15 for the drop cloth and few minutes every inspection. Yes, we all attend continuing education, read and study building science, and other activities that make us better inspectors. But what are doing IN FRONT OF YOUR CUSTOMER that has a potential marketing value. The act may be of low technical value to the overall inspection, but you feel it is something that helps the customer build confidence or tell others their inspector did X. For those who discourage customer attendence, is there something you include in your reports that may have a marketing angle. What are some of the actions you perform during an inspection for the potential WOW factor or marketing. It may have little technical merit or it might be the signature thing that sets up apart from others.

Do you leave your flashlight on for the entire 2-3 hours? How many minutes per inspection do you normally have your flashlight on? I can usually get 4-5 inspections out my ultra stinger. I do use a seperate flashlight for the crawlspace. I've never made it through even half an inspection with an Ultra Stinger. Again, how long are you leaving your flashlight on? Do you have your light on all the time? Turn it on, check something, turn it off. Repeat. What am I doing differently from you?

Do you leave your flashlight on for the entire 2-3 hours? How many minutes per inspection do you normally have your flashlight on? I can usually get 4-5 inspections out my ultra stinger. I do use a seperate flashlight for the crawlspace.

From what I have seen of people pulling wires in the field, you may learn something from people in the field, but I am not sure if it is what you want to know. Check with local community college or technical college. They often have programs for the trades. You would learn the correct way to do things and would likely have to become familar with the electrical code. A much better system than relying on a fella who is only passing along what he learned from the guy who has been at 6 month longer.

I see it all the time on new construction. I assumed it was the plumber attempting to insulate the pipes from freezing.

43) I agree that safety should always come first, but I have to wonder how one becomes a "ladder expert" if not by asking advice from people with experience . . . ? It's really not helpful if the answer is, "You can't get there from here" . . . I learned about ladders and ladder safety while in the fire department. They have lots of rules about ladders. They use ladders in dangerous situations on a daily basis and dont' want to rescue their own. OSHA has a book available that is all about how to do things safely. Home Inspectors use ladders but do not necessarily have the deepest knowledge base about "safely" using ladders. Go to real experts, OSHA and NFPA.

I would recommend against a programable thermostat for an Apollo system. They do not respond quickly to changes in temperatures. During the heating season, the house will cool down, but it may take 8 plus hours to come up 5 degrees.

I have two outlets in my vehicle, one that is hot all the time and one that is only hot when the car is running. I plug the GPS into the one that is ONLY hot when the car is running. Start the car, GPS turns on, 15-20 seconds later, I have a screen that accepts input. When turn car off, GPS signals it has lost power and will shutdown in 30 seconds unless I request otherwise. I purchased lifetime updates from Garmin. About once a quarter they send me an email that updated maps are available. Takes about 3 hours to download and update the GPS.