John Dirks Jr

Very nice. Silver is one of the best colors to show off the lines of body design. Silver reflects light and creates shadowing like no other color. Check it out on any car and you'll see what I mean. The 57 Belair sure does have some lines. What engine/trans is in that thing?

There is lack of bearing points to support load. Word it how you want but something along those lines.

I have the PDA set up now with a HP 2495hx and a BT keyboard. Its what I have so thats what I am using. In hindsight, I wish I would have just went with a regular laptop. If I had a laptop I would still use canned comments whenever possible but I cannot imagine ever being able to produce a quality report without typing some custom comments. The laptop also has the capability of reading CD's like IRC on site. I'm not sure if I can upload that kind of stuff to the PDA or not. Live and learn...

Thanks for the suggestions. I do have redundant backup in place. I keep copies of folders in two separate internal drives and one external drive as well. Burning CD's every now and then is a good idea too.

Well, technically speaking, porches are considered exterior. So anything under them is also exterior, correct? Either way, when considering the expense of the project at hand, why not just add the GFI protection anyway? How much more could it cost?

Hi folks, I am trying to decide the best way to store reports and their related things. I figured I would start a folder for each quarter. For example; 4th-2007, would be a a folder for Oct,Nov,Dec of 2007. Within each of these quarterly folders would be sub folders for each inspection that would include the the summary and full report, scanned copy of the agreement and all pictures associated with the particular job. I am trying to decide what is the best way to title the sub folders to make it easy to reference them down the road if needed. What do you think is the best way to title the job sub folders for ease of future reference? Client name, property address, doc #, date,etc...? Any other suggestions?

InspectMate by Knightssoftware. http://www.knightssoftware.com/products ... ctmate.php I pretty much have to re-write the entire boilerplate to improve it. I still have work to do. Very much work. I have learned from this forum to try and avoid the inspector speak. This boiler plate is loaded with it.

I am very good at chicken peckin with index fingers. I do need to get used to a slightly smaller field as this layout is a bit smaller than a full size. A huge improvement over poking the screen with the stylus.

I just got an HP Bluetooth wireless keyboard for my Ipaq. It beats the heck out of pokin that tiny on screen keyboard with the stylus. Now I can chicken peck with my two index fingers on this fold out keyboard. This will surely speed up my capability of typing in custom comments on site. It works really good. Download Attachment: HPIM0182.JPG 230.39 KB

I can almost smell that photo just by looking at it. PEEEE UUUUUU........[:-crazy]

He means that the tapping in the tank has a plug in it, not the tapping in the TPR valve. - Jim Katen, Oregon Ok I got it now....thanks.

He said the TPR outlet has a plug in it. In that case there is no protection at all no matter how it is installed. Pressure could build until the tank blows.

They say that money cannot buy happiness but I would sure as heck like to give it a try. I havn't been able to test that question yet. Maybe some other time.[:-weepn]

Its a 12'x24' carport. Heres both vehicles tucked in. Obviously nobody can get into or out of the passenger side of the Cherokee while they're both parked under there. You can see the landscape tie bolted to the slab that stops the Dakota from coming too far in. There is another tie in front of the Cherokee to stop it about 6 inches from the wall. Image Insert: 101.34 KB

It is enclosed on 2 sides. One vehicle pulls in from the side and another from the end. Its a tight squeeze but they both fit. So back to the question. With respect to fire breaks, are the concerns the same for garages and carports?

On masonry chimneys it is said that the counter flashing should be "let" into the mortar joints about 1/2" or so. If it wasn't done properly when the chimney was first built, how would you go about making the repair? Do you have to use some type of masonry saw to cut slots in the mortar?

In the picture you see the carport. It has a 5/16" plywood ceiling. You can see that the roof for the carport is an extension of the house roof. In the attic there is only a plywood wall of the same 5/16" sheathing separating the house side attic from the carport side attic. In addition, this combustible divider wall also has a 3'x3' hole cut into it that was used to place a fan. I know there is a concern when there is a lack of a good fire break with respect to attached garages. Is there also a concern for lack of a good fire break with respect to carports? Image Insert: 409.15 KB

With that much condensation one would think that there is a big temperature difference between the air in the duct and the ambient air outside of the duct. Maybe the unit is too large and the cooled air is that much cooler to create the extra condensation? Just a guess.

No it doesn't! Yours is more practical. Besides, who really knows what the heck's going on here? (Les probably nailed it.)id="maroon"> Yeah..hooka tube. LOL

Gary's explanation makes sense. Here is another posibility; If you have a house that was originally well water but now has city water, this hose could have been used to supply well water for washing cars and watering lawns and stuff. An effort to keep the water bill down. City water in the house for everything else and still use the well on the exterior. Gary's explanation still sounds better/

Watch out for the uncoated brass tubing. I will be calling those out no matter how or where they are installed. Heres some info from my local utility on the subject. http://www.bge.com/portal/site/bge/menu ... 0d66166a0/

Both of the places I inspected so far didnt have it and I pointed it out. Are there different color compounds? I know there is a greyish one. Its that the only kind? One place had a clearer like substance on the lugs and it was drying up and cracking and flaking away. It almost looked like wheel bearing grease.

Do any of you write up lack of antioxidant compound on the main lug connections?

So poor writing of the sentence made it easier to mis-understand its intent. Looks like we can agree on that. As far as this particular rusting gas pipe I saw, I did point it out to the gentleman. The conversation went like this; Me, "Take a look at the rust on this pipe, it's pretty excessive, not just surface rust" Him, "Ahhh, it aint a problem" Me, " Well you see the rust right?, and you do believe that if nothing is done it will continue to rust, dont you?" Him, "yes" Me, "So if it continues to rust, what do you think will eventually happen?" Him, "it will leak" The rust was bad enough that I believed it was important to mention it. If I see it like this somewhere else, I will call it out again. I think they should at least be kept painted with rustoleum or some other kind of rust inhibiting coating.

Thanks Mike, I am aware of the issues with CSST.