AHI in AR

Hi Marc, Thanks for answering, but I'm still confused on this one...... The AC manufacturer calls for a max. OCPD of 25amps, and for a min. wire ampacity of X. In this case, the cable supplying power to the disconnect/circuit is 10 gauge, which is adequate. The fuses in the switch disconnect are 25 amps, but since those fuses can be easily replaced, I'm not sure they are allowed as the primary OCPD. I'm not Marc, but I still say you don't have a problem. The fuse AT THE DISCONNECT is correct. A slightly larger breaker in the service panel isn't an issue. So what if the fuses can be changed? So could a breaker in the same location. What's the problem?

I gotta disagree with Marc regarding appropriate breaker sizes and "branch circuit" wiring. This is 240 V wiring straight to the air conditioner, not a branch circuit. And we all know that AC data plates typically say something such as "minimum circuit ampacity 22.7 Amps" with a "maximum HACR breaker size of 40 Amps." For this example I will assume that the wiring is 10 gauge. In that case, if there's a 40 amp breaker I call it good, even though the breaker would appear to be too large for the wiring. But with an air conditioner, we're dealing with a momentary load issue, not constant, therefore the seeming discrepancy. In this case, the fuse nearest the unit is correct. No problem with a bigger breaker on the panel. Assuming that all of the wiring -- to and from the disconnect -- is rated to handle at least the minimum load specified on the data tag for the unit, I wouldn't see anything to write up.

While I have never seen anything remotely like it, I suspect that the valve is there for the occupant to turn off gas in the event of an emergency. The caution against turning it back on is probably there to prevent someone who has no knowledge that there is a problem from turning it back on before repairs are made.

At least they used Z flashing. The practice around here seemed to be to use a horizontal 1 X 4 or 1 x 6 in lieu of Z flashing. Years later when the siding begins to show rot damage above the horizontal band, the original band (usually rot resistant cedar) is simply replaced with the next larger size piece of spruce or yellow pine from one of the big box stores. With lots of sloppily applied cheap caulk. Stupid.

Actually, you just described a control joint, not an expansion joint. An expansion joint is there to allow the concrete to expand due to temperature rise. Using a softer material in the joint accomplishes this. The job of a control joint is to control where the slab cracks rather than to crack in a seemingly more random fashion. Of course, they don't always do that successfully.

Totally cool. I think we should add a new forum for these kinds of things. Not nearly as interesting as Mark's find, but I once found a termite tube up the outside of a water heater. The little guys labored to get almost 4' up the side of a water heater before throwing in the towel and conceding there was no food there.

I usually see 30 amp fuses on old branch circuits with 14 ga tin-plated copper wiring...but I've never seen anything less than a 60 amp service.

Some good info here if you really want to know how to squeeze all the life out of a water heater that you can. Read the sections about anodes and the reasons for draining your tank periodically to get rid of sediment. It's a lot for a homeowner to absorb, but good info for inspectors. For inspectors who like old stuff, look at their photos of old water heaters. This guy is REALLY interested in water heaters! http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/ ... aters.html

I think the wire is growing a fur coat since it's too cold there at times...

Marc, I've always admired your intellect, but that made you downright likable. Hey Marc-- Enjoy the compliment from Chad. From a guy as laconic as he is, that brief statement is damned near effusive.

You'll probably still get blamed! []

Looks like your garden variety flexible appliance connector -- and that ain't an appliance it's connected to, so it's not an appropriate use.

It's a good thing that fireplace hasn't been used much. It's just plain goofy. It appears to be constructed with relatively soft and porous "antique" brick. Not a good mix with a gas burning appliance. I suspect it was someone's attempt to create a budget chimney. I have less of a concern about the lack of a conical transition than I do the fact that it is single wall pipe. As big as the interior of the chimney is, I see a lot of potential for condensation. Looks to me like a good candidate to be relined.

I find the language discriminatory against other animals and personally offensive. I will file a formal complaint. Or not.

I'd say you have a sediment trap, albeit a very small one. As Richard said, I think the plan was for a future gas appliance to be added.

Uh Oh...That's the Eastern Pacific Rim six-legged beetle. It only attacks recently renovated kitchens where the homeowner agonized over structural and decorative decisions. The beetle senses the stress and homes in on the location. You're screwed.

Nothing like an early to mid-60's Lincoln for ramming ability!* *Just beware the suicide doors.

I had one in the backyard of my previous home, which sat on almost 3 acres. He did the same tail rattling move at times. I would see him often at various times, including almost every time I mowed the yard. When I got near him, he would take off quickly. As I made the big circuit and got back again, I would often find him right back where he was originally. I thought that we had an understanding, and I thought it worked out well. Unfortunately, my neighbor with an irrational fear of snakes dispatched him one day. Prior to that time, he paid a visit to the deck just off the back of my office. To give you an idea of his size, those are 2 x 6 floor boards. Lastly, I have never seen a live snake in an attic, but I have seen more shed skins than I can count. Click to Enlarge 45.71 KB

Unfortunately, in similar cases I often see "repairs" done on damaged siding and trim which consist of simply rebuilding with the same defective design. Rarely does anyone seem to stop and question why the original installation failed.

Low-slope roofs are very rare around here, so I don't see too many different materials. This mess greeted me today. The white layer was a thin plastic which was peeling up around the edges in several places. Underneath that was a black plastic-y layer, and there was an aluminized layer underneath that. Sooooo...what is it? Click to Enlarge 56.88 KB Click to Enlarge 64.26 KB Click to Enlarge 56.1 KB

I looked at a house yesterday which had a typical manufactured fireplace enclosed in a wood sided chase running up two stories. The furnace and water heater in the crawlspace combined into a single B-vent, and they used the dead space in the fireplace chimney chase to run the vent up. It exited adjacent to the chimney underneath the same large cap. This seems like a bad idea to me, but I'm not aware that there is any actual code prohibition against it. Anybody know?

What is that-- a vinyl replacement window slipped into a frame from an old wood window?

Looks like a case of misguided stupidity to me.

I would make the argument that if we are looking at a single system, a Manual J load calc wouldn't truly be conclusive. I have to think that a system that handles more than one level -- and which doesn't run full-time -- can't be properly designed this way. It simply doesn't take into account all the parameters. Sure, it can calculate total heating and cooling needs. But it is not going to tell you how to accomplish that with a single system since each level of the home has different heating and cooling needs. Or am I missing something?

I tell my clients that they're fighting physics using one system to handle more than one floor: they can't win that fight. Returns on each floor help, but it's not a cure. My experience says that the upper floor will ALWAYS be a little warmer -- heating or cooling season. Running the fan continuously will help, but at what energy cost?