Rob Amaral

1985-vintage condo building with original heat pump.. I'm checking it... NO Return DUCT.. No return INLET to blower-cabinet.. zip. Nada. "Return-air' simply 'leaks-in' through gaps in blower-door'... Been that way for 33 years... No flow...

I once inspected a 1928 Tudor in Boston area and found a collapsed flue-tile liner (from looking up in the clean-out at the basement). I took a photo.. and 'you need a new liner' etc. Seller had the work done, buyer hired me to 'check the new liner'.. I did the same thing.. looked up the clean-out, found a torn-apart-to-pieces (spirally) new metal liner. "you need it re-done". It was re-done. I go back, now see a good liner from clean-out, but to get to the top, it meant erecting a 21' LG and carrying up a 13' LG to make it to the top (it was actually very easy but a pain). I get to the top---the 'tube' is now just 'cut and ended above the cap/wash'.. .no 'cap' on it, etc. "Fix it right". They fix it. I go back.. same drill with the 2 ladders... this time.. a text-book job.... ...and the chimney-company-owner's cell phone left up there... Oy... Four trips just to make sure this was done right...

Light-colored concrete does not absorb as much heat from the sun (perhaps)... and the red brick does... red brick expands and starts to destroy itself now that it absorbs more heat from the sun??? Just a guess. ... What you appear to need is a professional engineer savvy about 'the coefficient of expansion' of those various materials... ....

The fun part of the job!

Nice video... that guy's little keyer-rig is not heavy enough... The one I have is a cast-iron monster... as my Italian grandmother would have said.. "She no move.. " ... it's 100% mechanical...

I don't use it... but I 'know' Morse code ... it was 'absorbed' since age 12.. Being a musician also helps to learn/understand it (and vice versa by the way!) The key set is a Standard Model Mac Key... Manufactured by Theodore R Mc Elroy "world's' champion radio telegrapher'.. Boston, Mass, USA The only time I use 'code' is to rag on my brother (the ham) or talk to him "in code' secretly or to see if the code used in a movie is correct or not.. (surprising how often it's correct.. )

Telegraph 'binding post' in a house.. .hmmm... smells like a HAM I should have figured that out... (Uncle-K1AWP, brother-N1MX) Beep beep ba deep... Or I should say "73'!! Meanwhile... not 1 foot away from my seat, there is this:

Probably radio antenna... I find remnants of old antennas in attics all the time around Boston..

it'S OUTTA HERE... Don't touch it... bam.. done.. new tank.. looks like a microscopic tiny tiny gap in the weld.. ...

Did you check any accessible-visible lumber grade-stamps?? S-GRN lumber (surfaced in 'green' state) may have been used for the framing???

Sure looks like a lightning arrestor...

I didn't 'turn it on' due to the age of the cord.. reminded me of "Ma's iron...1955... Amen on the old ad.. that is interesting..

I didn't 'turn it on' due to the age of the cord.. reminded me of "Ma's iron... 1956.. "

It's endless... .. something I've never seen until today.. 120V plug-in cast iron radiator.. Label says "Burnham Electric Steam Radiator" (No.. I did not turn it on)

I realize that AFCI is now 'required' for 'kitchens'.... what kind of reaction do you folks have about this in regards to the fridge being AFCI-protected ? My question is in regards to nuisance-tripping (off) of a device protecting a fridge... are local AHJs chiming-in???

G-O-N-E

Great job on the ahtickle Jim... The Chaptah iz proud of yah...

Where is this? Elkhart Indiana???? Maybe the guy worked at a motor-home factory..

That would not pass mustah around here (MA)... all our mitigators use PVC

Your photo of the vent into the chimney-breech area is not clear enough for us to fully help you... The bottom line is that ideally, oil-fired exhaust systems are 'tight' from 'exhaust outlet' of the appliance to the terminus of the exhaust (except for the movable barometric damper, 'if such a damper is required' by the boiler manufacturer" . Reason: So the oil-burner technician can properly 'tune' the oil burner. This is all about 'proper draft control' of the burner-flame itself...so you can get maximum combustion.. I see sooty drip-stains at the top of that chimney.. which usually indicates the oil burner needs a tune-up.. Funky gaps at such connections, messed-up chimneys, loose clean-out doors and the like lead to poor control of the flame and inefficiencies in combustion and $$$ up the chimney lost.. A liquid fuel needs a good technician... think 'automechanic/1950's' Again.. 'not enough info brother'..

cavitation-damage??

Exact same pull-chain in my house growing up... circa 1950...

I use a typical "Taylor" brand HVAC thermometer in a cup... run the water a while... etc.. serviceable...

Had an internal tankless-coil in a steam boiler up here kick-out 200 F once.. Relo inspection... lady was home... with a small kid.. "I told her and notated it'..

A lot of those around here.. since the late forties.... The 1640's...