Rob Amaral

Mike's correct. Could be perimeter infill with a problem. However, there was one shot of a settled-down block pier... How old was this shack?

Good points. If you don't understand the 'building science' surrounding these things, they can be a heap of trouble. When maintained and operated correctly, they are great. Not, they're potential trouble..

I've got one here.. Those are/or were made in MA for Honeywell by a company called Air Exchange (last I checked). Norwell, MA. Right across the street (practically) where Zildjian cymbals are hammered out! I use mine in summer only. Works great. I bought it off the dock in Norwell.

I believe that is a QDK-type bell (Quasi-Doctor Kevorkian).

I once inspected a house with a steam boiler and internal tankless coil water heater and the coil's output at the taps was 200 deg F. ..

I once almost spent a night in Lincoln, NE with a mouse in the damn hotel room... Got all tucked in and the little ****ard started runnin' around in the dark. Got another room. It was dead in the middle of winter...

I was just talking to a family member about Venice recently. Must be a real 'pit' behind the scenes...

Contact Stephen King...he'll figure out the black-room/Gothic-kid/mold spots issues. He can drive over...

My take was that the AFCI system of protection was pointed toward bedroom circuits/outlets due to the higher likelihood that lamp cords and extension cords would be mechanically damaged in bedrooms due to furniture and so forth. The surveys of how fires started pointed to bedrooms and these types of stranded-copper cords being damaged over time, arcing and causing ignition of combustibles. (Sheets, drapes, clothes).

In other words, it could be a 'ground fault' that can't clear itself' as it has no proper return path (to the utility transformer). It would sizzle itself 'clear' eventually (maybe) but still be a 'problem'. Sounds nasty.

Ground fault with no equipment ground connection back to the circuit's breaker? A corroded breaker (inside the breaker?)

Looks like rain backsplash off the gas meter? Concentrated chronic dampness from that and pollen = black mildew. Just a thought.

Hey Kudzu....nice post for a home inspector forum. Multiple shots, etc. Did you try a surfactant soap to see if it broke up grease? Did you smell it?

Like Mike, I have a 21' LG, 13' LG and the 32' Werner. I also have a 2pc steel-tube chicken ladder, a single 16' fly with a chicken hook as well. Rarely need them but do use them on occasion. That 32' Werner gets me up to those full-shed dormers on the backs of these Capes up here. I like to have 3' or more above the eaves when I mount a roof. Just feels better. I tie-off my ladders with bungee cord to gutter straps/nails or other stuff if I can. My other 'ladder' is a 60mm scope, good binoculars, a big mirror (rarely used) and my brain...

Go with a 32' ladder and install those Werner 'ladder leg levelers' on them.

Delmhorst usually supplies good info with their meters so that you won't mislead yourself.

I made an error in a previous post. Try: www.bostongroundwater.org to learn about Back Bay water table issues.

Mike: I don't know the soil comp but it is some type of clay I'm sure. The areas are near the mouths of inland river systems that dump into Boston Harbor. Both North and South of Boston ("South Showah and Nawth Showah"). I even saw it raise an under-building parking area (asphalt) so that the under-area looks like an upholstered pillow in areas. That building is modern-vintage on pilings (to bedrock)and had no problems otherwise. If you like soil issues and buildings, check out: www.bostonwaterconservancy.org Those buildings in Boston's "Back Bay" are also regularly inspected by Boston-area inspectors like myself. It helps to be knowledgeable about the history of Boston and the landfill history when you inspect in those areas.

I see this in 2 Boston Harbor-area seaside communities in a particular set of neighborhoods. Clay soils that expanded due to getting wet (after being dry). Major humping of floors, actually causing posts to rise/beams etc. Some of these houses look like fairy-tale tippy houses.

The first time you see a double-tapped breaker or fuse terminal screw burnt, the message gets across. Two wires (or more) under one screw make for a poor connection.

I usually see (in Boston area): -AL siding w/o any bonding. -AL siding with 'ground rods' not 'bonded' to the equipment ground system/electrical system. (Dumb) -Bonding jumpers at under-side of siding at the corners (to 'jump' the corner pieces). This last one is probably the only 'reasonable' one but of course, there are many potential breaks in the bond.

Did you put a moisture meter on it?

Got this classic shot of a F-P Stab-Lok panel that happened to have the top two branch circuit breakers missing. Check out the arc-damage at the bus bar openings and the arc marks at the main disconnect. Download Attachment: IMG_7156.JPG 51.37 KB

I've been using the Tramex ME for years. Using it 'and your head', it is extremely useful. I'd like to sell mine and get the Tramex ME Plus (the new one has an on/off switch that can't be left 'on' by accident). I think a good pin meter is excellent as well. When will they put both features in the same rig? (Pins and pads..). I have a Delmhorst 2-pin type that I only use to 'firm up' nasty moisture issues in framing and the like.

The LB wall is a good idea for a lot of issues. Often I'm looking at old 2 families going condo with beam issues. Instead of replacing the beam or posts, simply pump in a LB wall and divide the basement in half. Two birds, one stone. .. Works great at undersized basement stairwell trimmers also...