Rob Amaral

A load-bearing 'wall' that is actually part of a shelving system could be incorporated at that area as well. A wall for a cabinet system/storage system may just be easier. Box off that corner for storage.

Nice photo. One of the 'cons' about K&T, eh? (Remodeling activities over the years increases the chances for a nail or screw to penetrate the insulated jacket and lead to a possible 'ground fault' that cannot be 'cleared' by an overcurrent device).

11 rows of bricks high and 2 bricks wide with exposed conductors of brittle K&T running over the 'threshold'? Depends on how big you are. I too have gone thru these little holes too. I now ask myself 'is it worth the trip?". "Observed from opening due to inadequate safe access" or something like that would suffice here. Your call.

Boy... I must go near that house often (we all must up here, it being so close to the Pike). Can't recall it though. Could be a junker. Can you spell "Long report"...

Key word for this one is "pyrolysis". I've seen this in old closet light fixtures. May take many years before actual 'ignition' takes place. Constant exposure of wood to a high-heat source tends to lower the 'flash point'. Great concept to wrap your head around when dealing with 'clearances to combustibles' and other such issues.

Loose connection=heat. I agree with the 'boys'. Arc-faults are supposed to respond to a specific problem. This is not that problem. Think of this as an 'undersized' wire type of thing. (Undersized, i.e., 'poor-grade' connection). Weak connections are poor connections, a lot like undersized wires in a way.... a concept thing. Arc-fault Current interrupters are supposedly 'looking' for specific intermittent connection 'arcs' (on-offs) that they 'recognize' (supposedly).

Jim, I thought "backplastering" was what you did the next morning at the bar where you got hammered the night before... to get the 'hair of the dog that bit ya'...

E-150 Econoline van is great. Try it...you'll like it.

My view of these pix is dark. However, did you scrape this wood? Looks burned to me, man.. Pyrolized from this vantage point... seen it many times... But the pix are difficult for me to determine this. Scrape it, smell it... charcoal is charcoal...

Are you sure there isn't a modern type expansion tank near the boiler? If there is indeed an open tank (hooked up), I'd go for the modern tank. For a number of reasons. Prevents air entrainment into system, easier to service, smarter, not dumb, cheap to install, etc. Nutty if there is an open tank. No 'holes' allowed in hydronic heat....cavitation.... cavitation... impeller damage... air-binding...

Danny-did that room have a 'cathedral' ceiling by the way? Nice sag at the ridge there... Just wondering.

I agree with you guys. However, I run my obs based on the 'manufacturer's labeled instructions'. In other words, if they list the 'equipment ground bar' kit to use for this panel, then this is 'unorthodox' (according to the panel manufacturer's labeled instructions) in order to make sure it was noted. I always read the label to look for ju-ju notes on these issues. If it says 'use this equipment ground bus', they you should. Because "they" (the manufacturer) tested it in 'scenarios' for safety. (This was word-of-mouth per Square D engineer who emailed me a few years ago on a similar issue).

Depends. And carefully when I do..

"the stone was crumbling in certain areas..". What kind of stone? Limestone? Granite? Sedimentary rock? Not enough info for this New Englander. (We rate stone foundations every day around here...). Frost does a job on some stone foundations. The more angular the rocks, the 'tighter' the strength is. The rounder the rocks, the more they are prone to movement (in some cases). Gets interesting around New England doing the vood-doo on the foundations. (Oldest one I've checked out is 1636...not kidding...).

Jim and Chad are right. What BS. R

Amen JK...the devil is in the details. I'm starting to see more and more 'gas fireplaces' in the Boston area. Some of the new ones are really nice. My in laws have a hell of a nice one...the flames start out blue then change to yellowish after 5 mins or so. Has all kinds of whistles and bells that confuse the hell out of my WW2 vet father-in-law.... has a remote that keeps him busy being confused!

Professional Roofing magazine had a cool article on a similar issue this past month. Check it out. (NRCA's rag). I've been driving around looking for these evidences. (Why does exterior copper sometimes corrode and sometimes not...that was the drift of the article). Acid rain was the cause on the East Coast... check it out. R

Don't they deliberately poorly-tune those things to get them to kick out yellow flames?

Flywheel gizmo? For a well or for the garage door if the power fails? Photo is difficult..

There are some H.B.Smith boilers that don't have to have a baro damper. Some of those Italian jobs don't as well...

I use the Tramex. Great tool and has helped many, many times. Be aware of the issues surrounding meters in general (like Dennis said...hidden metal,etc). However, I think it is a must to have one. I record whether stains are damp or dry and mention that the moisture meter was used to determine this. I also mention what type of meter was used. I have the Delmhorst meter system as well but I never need to use it anymore unless I'm troubleshooting a real 'problem place' and need to bring out the heavy ammo for the documentation.

If I were you, I'd get a job with a local contractor, perhaps somebody who does renovations. It is a great way to get your feet wet and ready for home inspection. You really should start there right away and work into the home inspection thing...

Doug Hansen is right-on about the little folks on your shoulders. They are there the whole time (all the time anyway, right?) and begging for your attention. Get knowledgeable and listen to the little guy with the golden halo. The brokers have the same crew on their shoulders, too. Many listen to the pitchfork guy, many listen to the little golden halo guy. That is their problem. You take care of your shoulder-crew. As for ways to get trained, I'd say the mentor/ride-along is the best in addition to the class/study things.

I bought the Suretest because it does the GFCI trip factoring based on the 'actual voltage' at the house/receptacle. Bummer is that the thing is kind of big. (Eagle Creek sacs at Eastern Mountain Sports....only way to go). Only once did my Suretest discover a biggie...really low voltage on a brand new house a the end of a long street. When I brought it up, the broker fessed up and said the 'utility is working on it'. Very good tool for checking voltage drops on those props that are set way, way back from the trannie in the street. I'd recommend one no question. It's the carrying that is the bummer...

Mike: I just finally read your 'Crimes Against Architecture" article. Good job. Stuff like that happens in the Boston area but not much. It tends to go the other way. I call it the "WGBH-effect". (CH2, the local PBS station that 'built' "This Old House" and all the associated blarney that has come from it). We local Boston inspectors are inspecting in undoubtedly the best arena in the US. Literally. You can indeed hit a 1600's home along with the latest in construction in your career. To top it off, a few of us locals do indeed get to check out the handiwork of the "This Old House" guys you see on TV. Makes for interesting fodder. Keep up the excellent interest in 'stuff' Mike.... Rob Amaral