Jerry Simon

It helps me to know the correct terminology in general. Thanks Brandon. In this neck of the woods, we call 'em "reducers". I like shoulder better, though.

Woulda been quicker and easier just to hot-wire.

Three guys walking down a street. Two walked into a bar. The third guy ducked.

I think it's fine. The siding/siding lower channel acts like the counter-flashing.

I've heard folk do such to help prevent the toilet from sweating. Never stared at one for long enough to know if it works, though.

IL State Plbg Code specifies metal ext. pipes only. Sect 890.1230 d) 3)

Who's the scientist who placed an escape window under a sliding door where one assumes a deck would be buiilt? That's truly f****'d up.

What's 1/4" rainwall? Are you talking about rainscreen construction? Both of the products that you mention are durable and light. Neither will be affected by road vibration. Both work well enough. I've read your blog, so my advice would be to go with whichever one you can obtain more cheaply. My impression is that you're buying *way* too much stuff new and at retail prices. Ramp up your scrounging skills. The search for cheap materials does not begin and end with Craig's List. Some advice: First, make a list of materials that you are seeking. Then, get prices for these materials when obtained the conventional way so you'll know whether or not something is a good deal. Enlist your friends and family - not just first-level F&F either, cast a wide net. Distribute your list to them and ask them to keep an eye out for prospects. Every day, you should check not only Craig's List, but also the more old-fashioned classified ads in your newspaper. When you go to look at a prospect, bring a suitable vehicle to carry away the goods and bring cash (small bills). Vendors don't like to store objects that you've bought from them, they don't trust checks, and they don't make change. The most important thing to remember with vendors is that they are more interested in getting rid of what they are selling than the money that they're asking for it. The importance of haggling cannot be overstated. Particularly when dealing with Craig's List vendors, you must never offer the asking price (they will sneer at you behind your back). Become at ease with phrases such as "You're taking the food from the mouths of my children," or "Who do I look like, Rockefeller?" Find something, anything, that is unsatisfactory about the product and use it as a basis for offering a lower price. "Thirty dollars? That toilet is ok, but I don't think that avocado green is coming back. Tell you what, I'll give you ten bucks for it if you help me put it in my car right now." (Hold out a ten dollar bill.) Hint: try this the next time you're in Nordstrom. Don't be afraid to sell out ethically or morally. The people who sell what you want will invariably be right-wing wackos. Smile and play along. Tell them that you are late to meet them because you were caught up while listening to Rush. Laugh at their Hillary jokes-- "Ho, ho, ho, you are soooo funny, Mr. Wacko. Its a pleasure to be doing business with a fellow Nazi." Every lumber yard has a "bone yard." This is the place where the orphans go. Special orders that were wrong or never picked up, scratch & dents, discontinued items, etc. The yard managers are usually willing to negotiate on price. Specialty dealers have similar opportunities -roofing, plumbing, electrical, paint - they all have deals if you bother to ask. Make rounds to these stores regularly, bat your eyes at the manager, get to know him, and he may even hold things for you. Often, you find great deals on things that you don't really need. The obvious solution is to buy the great deal and then work it into your plans. (Enlarge the bathroom floor plan to accommodate that bidet that you just got a great deal on.) Twice a year, in my home town, they have clean-up day. Residents can put anything out on their sidewalks to be collected & taken to the dump. This stuff is free for the taking. Just cruise up and down the streets & load up whatever you want. Doors & windows are common finds. Commercial construction or renovation sites are great resources. Their dumpsters can be rich sources of reusable building materials. You would be amazed at that access that you will be granted for the price of a box of donuts. In fact, if you get to know the construction super (do the eye-batting thing again) and bring donuts regularly, he might even set stuff aside for you so that you don't actually have to climb into the dumpster. Must be a helluva blog. . .

There are combo fan and hi limit switches though.... That's pretty much all we see in these parts on older furnaces, like the one in my pict. Three settings on the dial; fan on, fan off, burner off.

I think that's the fan switch. It is, but it's also a limit switch; the *upper* limit is usually set to about 220 degrees on the switch dial. My HVAC guru informed me the by-passed limit is called a thermal limit; larger BTU furnaces (though not all of 'em) have both a fan limit and a thermal limit. The thermal limit can pickup excess heat in locations where the fan limit might not sense such. Again, thanks to all.

Thanks Jim & Brandon and all; pretty obvious once you pointed such out. Golly gee willickers this is a nice place. With your help, I just finished my report, and will only look like an idiot here. [:-dunce]

Maybe, but the limit switch in the silver metal box on the upper right of the furnace was functional. Darn thing is I've seen hundreds of these, and I know I know what's missing; just can't put my finger on it.

Lennox G-Series, approx. 1986. Not worried about Dura-Curve exchanger issues, but am wondering what I'm not seeing. In attached pict, what should be at the end of the dangling wires that lead from the white sensor thingy up at the top left of the pict? A missing flame roll-out switch? Click to Enlarge 32.01 KB

I kinda disagree. As Kurt mentioned, snow drifts. Snowfall depth records don't account for drift heights.

Most say 12" above any anticipated snow level. . . Truly non-specific.

Nothing different than what you told her in the first place. Your job is/was done.

Value of the inspector. . .

IMHO, any inspector worth their salt shoulda been able to figure out the cause of the crack, or at least have a theory or two; and, as folk have said, an on-site inspection of the areas in close proximity to the cracking should reveal clues as to cause, and to determine if there should be any concern. If there is on-going movement, the main concern, then there are usually signs of on-going movement (for example, patching and re-patching of floor areas or wall areas around/above the cracking). We often say things not contained in our reports; did the inspector offer any insight?

That's not a *normal* crack, so recommend further review[:-angel]. Report didn't give me a stroke. I've got file cabinets full of such from my first few years of inspecting. I think it was harder to kick than cigarettes. . .

No, he's telling you to recommend evaluation. I'm just curious why he want's you to make a recommendation, and to whom. (Sorry; I deplore inspector-speak.)

Who did your inspector tell you to make that recommendation to? Picture doesn't show much, but what I can see looks quite innocuous; almost more of a cold-joint.

I'm taking $100 off my fee for my first job today; fourth or fifth house I've done for the guy, and probably did a dozen other jobs from his referrals. If I wasn't so dang busy, I'd probably do more for him. I'll be paid back ten-fold.

I'd at least make it a small deal. Under the weight of ice & snow, those will probably bend over and at least crack.

I haven't taken a doube tap since college. . .

Thanks, wart-boy. Hey, maybe later we could get some ice cream and watch the sun set.