Tom Raymond

Randy, what are you trying to do? If all you want is remote access you just need a virtual network. I've had some luck with RealVNC, it is free on line and works reasonably well, but will not function at all if you have any hardware locked software (dongles). Try googling "real VNC", install it to each computer you want access to, then all you need is an internet connection. Tom

First of all drip/rake edge isn't flashing, it performs the same function as a shingle molding, it is designed to cover the edge of the sheathing and support the portion of shingle that projects beyond it. Granted, when we started making these things out of metal we designed some water shedding features into them, but they are not flashings. In ice dam country if the ice and water shield is on top of the drip edge, it provides no protection at the point the ice dam starts, by wrapping the IWS over the edge of the sheathing and onto the fascia the protection is extended past the top edge of the gutter where it is needed most. Further more, you do not want to apply any adhesive roofing material to aluminum drip edge, it will curl up the first time it gets cold. Ask me how I know this. Tom

How then will you ever convert us all to the comic book format? Stan Lee, Marvel Inspections

I don't think so. With a house full of Energy Star appliances (my washing machine consumes 11 gallons per load on it's thirstiest setting) , a low flow showerhead, and newer low volume toilets, I have trouble believing I use the 107 gallons a day my average bill translates to. The new bill reflects more than 170 gallons a day beyond that. Speaking of toilets, the water dept. monkey suggested that the increased usage was likely due to the tank valve leaking down into the bowl. This infuriated me because to move that volume of water would turn the entire volume of the tank every 20 minutes on my oldest toilet. Like no one would notice that the toilet ran constantly. I dyed the tanks anyway, after 4 hours the bowl water was still clear. He did come out and take a new reading, and it is far more consistant with my 100 gallon a day norm, leading me to believe that the new meter read 15-18,000 gallons when it was installed and not the 99,990 that he insists it read (10 gallons below zero). Tom

It's a crappy meter. It reads in 10 gallon increments, and doesn't have a low usage dial. I'll have to get a flow meter on it, but I would have to run at least 10 gallons to see anything at the meter, 100 gallons would probably be more accurate. Tom

Terry, It sounds like you saw something like Structo Glas, one of many brands of Sanitary FRP's out there. Check out http://www.cranecomposites.com/sequenti ... N=98919703 Tom

This is about my home, not an inspection. I have municipal water that is billed quarterly. At the start of the most recent quarter, the muni's installed a new meter. The only thing to change in that quarter was the meter and the supposed measured usage. My average consumption for the last two years has been 9600 gallons per quarter, while they claim my consumption for the quarter since the new meter is 24,900 gallons. I spoke with the head of the water department today, and he insists that the meter was zeroed when it was installed and that the reading is accurate, and that the additional 15,300 gallons must be a leak on my side of the meter or an increase in usage. I argued that I would probably notice a leak approaching 200 gallons per day given my background in construction and my current status as an inspector and that his meter is either defective or was set at something other than zero when installed. Despite ten years of history and a high usage of 12000 gallons, they insist the reading is correct. My question is, how likely is it that the meter is improperly calibrated? Or, not properly zeroed when installed? Thanks for your insight, Tom

"Paint" Tom

Troy, Download this software to tag your photos. It's free, fairly easy to use, and does more stuff than you'll ever need it to do. The down side is there are no manuals, help files, or instructions, and the video tutorials are useless. With a little fidgeting though you should be able to figure it out. http://www.photoscape.org/ps/main/index.php As far as your report writing, follow the advice you get here, but you should also search the archives for sample reports or visit some of the members websites and read them there. This will not only give you very good examples of how you should be writing, but after reading a dozen or so reports you'll have an up close and personal understanding of exactly why your report needs to be clear and concise. Have the aspirin handy. Tom

The BBB is a dinosaur. It's long past time for them to go the way of green stamps and rotary telephones. Tom

Metabo tools are too spendy for me, especially a tool that will get such infrequent use. I have a Porter Cable paint remover (see link) that works pretty well. Mine is a much older model that uses a buffer/angle grinder motor housing but the foot assembly is the same, as are the carbide abrasive discs. If your not careful it will leave swirl marks. It is a bit heavy, and without any of the fancy safety covers on the Metabo it makes one hell of a mess. Tight fitting protective clothing is a must, as are snug fitting goggles and respirator. http://www.tools-plus.com/porter-cable-7403.html My best guess is that I have about 2000 man/hours (my wife & I both have big families, so there was a small army there) into the last paint job on my 1400 SF, 1870, 2 story farmhouse. I took it to bare wood on approx. 90% of the surfaces. That was almost ten years ago and it desperately needs another paint job, any of the original paint left behind is falling right off the wall. Tom

This is beautiful work[:-bigeyes Click to Enlarge 61.58 KB Tom

Walter, I'm surprised that you don't know better, but printers HATE Publisher. the file isn't compatable with most of the technology they use and will have to be redisigned or converted to a format they can work with. Photo Shop would be a much better choice. For those that wish to "roll their own" send your art as a PDF, your printer will thank you for it. Tom

While it may seem like a good idea to shop for price in tough times like these, you may want to keep in mind that your local printer is running lean just like the rest of us. By spending a little more at your local guy you improve the odds that he'll be around the next time you need him, and you keep your dollars in your community rather than send them to China, India, or who knows where. It's no different than the price hype that fills the shelves at Big-Box-Mart with crap from overseas transfering our jobs and our money elsewhere. Buy local, you'll feel better in the long run. Besides, it would be bad form for an HI to hand out cards printed with lead ink on paper that contains sulfur and asbestos, don't ya think? Tom

Looks alot like the HGTV Effect to me. Unless one is a mason a fireplace is definately a "don't do it yourself" project. Tom

"One of the other fads is taking Methane gas, from a land fill, and turning it into a heating medium." I think utilizing methane is brilliant, but it should be for power production at it's source. There is a landfill not far from here that has built a power plant on site that is producing power for around 6000 homes. That doesn't sound like much, but it is a small facility in a rural community, not the mega landfills one finds near more urban areas. There is also a large dairy farm nearby that is in the process of installing a methalene digester to process his liquid manure. He estimates that the project will generate more power than he can use (he currently consumes about $250,000 per year of electricity), and generate all the bedding material he needs (about another $100k per year). The only waste product this system will generate is enough 120 degree water to heat all of his buildings, if only there was a way to distribute it over the several thousand acres occupied by his farm. There was also a recent story (I can't remember where I saw it) about pilot projects to produce power from our own methane gas scavenged from sewage treatment plants. Methane is the ultimate renewable energy source.[:I] Excuse me! Tom

Gary, A few things to look for with these things: 1. The deck supports must be in line with the bearing walls of the enclosure and cannot be cantilevered. The deck in your picture is wrong. 2. The only place you will find flashing on one of these is at the room to deck connection. This is almost always aluminum coil over the treated lumber, bad idea. Some of the better companies specify placing ice and water shield between the treated and the aluminum. 3. The primary weather seal on an aluminum enclosure is caulk. Lots and lots of caulk. A room that size should have around 3 to 3 1/2 cases of caulk to comply with the manufacturer's instructions. 4. There should be wind screws through the roof panels into the aluminum framing below, at least one per panel. These are almost always missing, leaving only a handful of tek screws to hold the roof down. 5. It can be really hard to tell the difference between a leak and condensation so don't rip your hair out, if you have a bad room punt it to the builder or the manufacturer. Tom

When I was a kid, we had a similar problem. To make a long story short, it turns out that the neutral cable on the overhead service got hooked on one of the lightening rods during a wind storm. After the insulation wore through, there were very similar symptoms throughout the house, and actually got bad enough that running water in the kitchen sink would throw an ark when the water first hit the basin and then steam would rise from the drain until the water was shut off. This short wrecked several appliances, and cut through the neutral service cable in just a few days. You need to get an electrician out there as soon as possible. Your service provider might also be able to help. This is very dangerous and you need to do something right away. Tom

Since no one else mentioned it, the OP stated the house in question had a shingle mold. If in fact it is a shingle mold and not just a silly decoration than the intent of a drip edge has been met, to protect the edge of the roof sheathing and support the shingles where they project beyond the fascia. Both parts serve the same purpose. Tom

"There's no size key. Comparing it to the vinyl j-channel, it looks like that hole is about 3" long. Is that right? We don't have carpenter bees here. Can they do that?" Yup. The entry and exit holes are typically 3/8" to 1/2" and nearly perfectly round. They tend to burrow in 18" to 20", but I have seen burrows more than 3'. Sometimes the burrow is so close to the surface that you can almost see through the wood, the elongated hole looks like one of those instances and has either weathered or broken through. The bees are at least as loud as humming birds when they fly by. Tom

I'm with Jim. I've never seen one of those that was functioning, and every one of them either leaked or corroded so badly they wouldn't refill. Tom

"Barry Stone seems to believe everything a disgruntled homeowner says. You'd think he'd have developed a little skepticism after all of his years in the biz." WJ I thought Barry was being uncharacteristically kind to his fellow inspectors, even his little rant about heat exchangers was softer than his usual (s)tone. As far as bubbletubs go, I check to see that hot and cold are on the correct sides, and observe functional flow and drainage. I do not run the bubbles, I'm not gonna watch it fill up for 30 minutes and my clients don't expect me to. In my report I identify the maker, and instruct my client to obtain the operating and maintenance manuals prior to using it. If I'm feeling particularly generous I will call the manufacturer and get them emailed to me and include them as an attachment when I send their report. Tom

Live range controls are small potatoes, I once ran across a house with every door and window live. It was new construction and the painters had removed the cover on the gas fireplace in the master bedroom, the hot side of the switch for the blower made contact with the metal chassis, one of the nails for the vinyl siding made contact with a strap on the b vent, the foil face house wrap made contact with every aluminum clad window and the hinge screws for the steel entry doors. No one expects a door knob to give them a shock. I think 5 or 6 guys went and grabbed that door knob because no one beleived it was possible. Tom

" I would think it falls under the seller's responsibility." That then begs a whole new question, does anybody here track sellers information? Kinda hard to bring suit against someone if all you have is their (previous) address. Tom

Now that's funny[] Tom