Tom Raymond

Well?!!

Someone should make that guy stick to installing cable. On second thought, they should just take away his tools.

In a former life I worked on a large condo development that was triple wythe masonry. The masons worked through winter (on the shore of Lake Erie) by heating their materials. I built a roof over a 20 yard roll off and brick and mortar were stored inside and and kept warm with a salamander. Sand was heated outside by dumping the day's supply over a 55 gallon drum laid on its side with a fire burning inside. Water came straight from the hydrant. No additives at all. There were a few issues of effloresence but they were the result of problems with the pink dye specified for the mortar. Soft pink brick, hard pink mortar, ugly buildings.

I looked before I applied. An hour drive in any direction there are nine but two of those have been terminated. Half that and there's only three. There are a ton of consultants in the Rochester area, 2 hours or more to the northeast of me, but south of the I90 I'd have to go to Cortland or Binghamton, 3 hours, to run into another consultant. I'll work on the forms and start calling on banks. We'll see where it goes from there. Thanks.

I'm wondering just how badly the outlets and downpipes have to be leaking for there to be efflorescence behind almost every one of them, even on sides that don't generally exhibit the problem? That's a mess.

Thanks. OK. I'm on the roster, now what? Market to banks? Mortgage brokers? REs?

Nope. He'd swear it's wrong and that the whole roof would have to come off, then his roofer would just go up there and caulk it.

I guess I need to be more patient, I checked yesterday and was on the roster. Anybody wanna go rehab something?

I recall that happening to someone else here also. I guess no news is good news then. I'll just keep checking the roster.

So give them direction to install a fire barrier that is known to actually work. Cover the partition and the first four feet of the framing in fire rated GWB and tape the seams. Bonus: that crappy paint ob will be covered up. Some things just shouldn't be sprayed on[:-banghea

The HOC was very quick to return my app as incomplete, but I haven't heard anything since resubmitting. I was wondering if the others who applied are having a similar experience?

-Go with a concealed fastener system, they look better and require less maintenance. Bonus: the panels will go years longer without rust if you don't poke a bunch of holes in them. -Place rigid insulation between the purlins and skip the ventilation idea. The roof will be much quieter, resist dings better, and condensation on the underside of the panels will be far less of a problem. You also can use thinner panels with this approach but I wouldn't do that unless you plan on bending your own pans. -Ask for the installation manual for what ever product you buy and study the details. It is very important for you to understand the correct way to install your roof, the guys with the screw guns don't. In my area there are at least a dozen companies doing metal roofs, only one of them details their work correctly.

Gas stations still do that here, with one odd ball that actually discounts $.07 a gallon for debit card pay at the pump purchases. We accept credit cards at the day job, (Visa, Master Card, Discover) and charge a service fee of 3% on transactions over $1000. Some people still use their cards, but most will find another way to pay. Even with the disincentive our annual processing fees are roughly equal to my net salary. I'll be sticking to cash and checks, thank you very much.

That is a beautiful machine from a simpler age. I'd keep it around even if it didn't work.

I'd wager there'll be issues at all the standing seam roofs too, right where they slam into the rowlocks[:-banghea

It more closely resembles a steeple than a cupola. Whoever built it needs lots more practice.

GTM is a PITA. I had to install it for the 203k webinar a few weeks ago. It took 4 attempts to get it loaded on my brand new windows 7 machine, then it took several more tries to get the meeting to display, and even then it was still glitchy. Good thing it was scheduled for two hours, if it were set up for the 45 minutes it took I wouldn't have seen any of the powerpoint.

Good point. That is precisely how I use it. Every scan is a scheduled trouble shooting endeavor. I think I'd loose my mind if I tried to do a scan in the course of a regular HI, it's too distracting.

I disagree about the usefulness of a laser pointer. I perform my scans with my customer in tow. It is difficult enough getting everyone to stand close enough together to view the 3 1/2" screen without having to explain where I am imaging. A little red dot would go along way to helping my clients "get it". My Bcam has a button on it to engage a laser pointer, all the requisite "this device emits laser radiation" warning labels, a lens for the laser beam to emit from, but Flir didn't actually install a laser. The Product literature says "laser not enabled in all devices." Apparently I lost the lottery.

That may be true in the land of brick and mortar, but in modern wood frame buildings I can pick out repeated water infiltration with my Bcam. All I need is a reasonable temperature differential. Click to Enlarge 12.65 KB In this image I see thermal bridging at the roof truss to wall plate connection in the upper left, and compressed insulation on the right resulting in a loss of R value and colder wall surface. Outside there is a roof flashed into this wall. With a 20 degree differential between inside and out, and a 2 degree variation in surface temps it's pretty clear there's no water in the wall right now, but there has been.

Curtain drains work, but they have to be big. Honestly, I'm surprised one wasn't required when it was built. There could be enough water caught between the garage and living room bump outs to collapse the foundation wall between them, the current owner is fortunate it's spilling over the footing-all that pressure has to go somewhere! John, I think there's been a mistake in translating this post to English from Canadian. That "crawl" has higher ceilings than my basement. []

LMAO!

I give you a lot of credit for reaching outside your comfort zone and trying some new things. You've motivated me to up my marketing efforts, and I truly appreciate that. My only criticism would be that you did your entire pitch with a respirator on your forehead. The straps look like Goofy's ears, and if I wasn't so impressed by the effort I'd have laughed too.

Whoever designed that roofline should be hung by their thumbs. That convergence of valleys has the potential to be problematic on it's own. I'd wager it would leak even if the chase was detailed correctly. It was very nice of your inspector to present you with photographic evidence of his incompetence. At least he knew he needed to go up and look though[:-banghea

I don't think the 'mold' looks all that bad, could be just from sitting empty. I think $94 grand is a hell of a lot of money for it, around here that would be $40 tops, closer to $25 out in the boonies. If it were mine I'd start by gutting it. Fix the plumbing as Mike said, then after all the wiring and heating is done; I'd lay 1" EPS on the floor covered with 1/2 OSB screwed to the slab (no need to remove the asbestos floor tiles), use 1 1/2" Dow Wallmate on the walls, and spray foam the roof deck and gable ends making certain the block cores are sealed at the top (they're either full of vermiculite or they're hollow and will generate stack effect contributing to ice dams). An 80 cfm bath fan will be plenty big enough to handle the moisture load, at 5000 cubic feet that's 2.6 air turns an hour. Everything outside is toast; the chimney needs pointing, the flashing is a mess, the roof cover needs to be mowed, and what's left of the gutters is a joke. I'd add overhangs before resurfacing the roof, and in my climate would cover the walls with Wallmate, Tyvek, and siding (maybe fiber cement, but I really like the look of NuCedar cellular vinyl) after touching up any block issues. Even with access to all of those building materials at wholesale, it'd be hard to do all that with the asking price as the budget. It will never be worth $300/SF.