Tom Raymond

I've never seen a copper bus panel in person, but wouldn't all the buses be copper? The panel in the OP has aluminum SEC, aluminum lugs, and aluminum straps from the mains to the branch circuit buses. I still think it's smoked.

My brother put in a 150 amp panel last year, space for lots more circuits (30 max, IIRC) than his 1964 125 amp panel and as an added bonus; now the main, meter and SEC ratings all match. The panel in the OP is fried.

Something similar happened the first winter after my alcoholic white trash neighbors abandoned their house. Twice. A pipe froze and water was running out under the front door, down the steps, and out to the street. We called the water dept. and someone broke into the house and shut the water off at the meter. The main valve must not have closed all the way though, 'cause about a month later there was another gusher and the water dept. had to dig up the tap at the curb. The main wouldn't budge and curb valve turned into a geyser as soon as they put the wrench on it.

I have no idea where it is, it's just a pretty picture. I was doing an image search while trying to settle on a logo and I've now got an enormous folder full of 'clear creek' images. One of my favorites is a six pack of Clear Creek Ice, but I thought the snowy scene more seasonally appropriate. Edit: I would give the photographer credit, but this photo is completely unmarked. I interpret that to mean that it is public domain.

Well, Santa brought me a laptop so I'm beta testing W7 right now. So far so good, but it didn't come with anything that looks like that elf.

Try a dry suit, then you could save the gas to run the inspectormobile.[:-propell

I would hope the subs wouldn't need directions that explicit [:-dev3]

Never mind the switch, that's a helluva lotta circuits! My parents house is a 2800 SF rancher with all but 800 SF of the basement finished, and it gets along fine with a 200 amp CH split bus.

Tell us what you think when you've finished beta testing it.

Mark, I think you just named your show: Mark Perry, Easy and Entertaining!

That's what I see here,Marc, and the reason for my question. A modern truss extends a 6" bottom chord to the exterior shifting the overhang upwards, and if we delete the brickmold like the pics in this thread, that leaves 8" for a soldier course. Gee, aren't bricks usually 8"?[:-graduat

I'm curious, is this soldier a result of modern truss design? Before 'energy trusses' the frieze would have been at the top of the window and with rafters the soffit would rest atop the brickmold, there would be no soldier course.

They also contain lead. You know, cause it's a safer plasticizer.

Smart would have been to choose a source of heat that doesn't require endless gobs of hard labor.[:-graduat It is a cool machine though, I wish I was smart enough to check it out when I was there.

Yeah, don't install gutters up there. The damage in Darren's pic is what I see around here, especially when there's only one drop on more than 20' of gutter. Brandon, that place is in desperate need of a careless smoker.

Geodesic-ish - I like that better for reporting. I was just showin' off. It's pretty hard to put a geodesic-ish roof on that doesn't leak. Are you sure you don't have these hanging on the rear view of the inspectormobile? Click to Enlarge 8.74 KB

Sounds like your client is gonna buy it anyways.

I recommend radiant heat.[]

I'm with Terry, something is dumping moisture into the building. It's been around 30F outside and I keep the house around 64F, I haven't measured the RH but my dry nose tells me is't way below 34%. Check your exhaust fans, make sure they work and are ducted outside, and make sure you use them.

Interlocks clash. Eventually they get nicked and dented and clash worse. I have seen really cheap windows where the only viable fix was to cut one of the leaves off. The only reliable way to prevent significant problems is to be vigilant about locking the windows when they are closed. In most cases the sash locks take up any tension on the interlocks. Which Simonton window? It's been a while since I've played with any, but last I knew there were at least 4 flavors of varying quality. If they're new, problems that prevent normal operation would be covered under the warranty. Any one that can change a light bulb can install replacement sashes. FWIW, the double hung with the lowest air infiltration rate at my day job doesn't have an interlock, the draftiest ones do.

LEED is broken. It wastes resources to conserve stuff that doesn't need conservation, and rewards lunacy by granting a $200 bike rack the same points as $100K in alternative energy production.

Funny, you don't look bluish to me.

I have no problem believing this guy is a roofer, most of them are illiterate. It's clear from his posts that he's only marginally more skilled.

That's not at all what I expected to see given the name of the thread[:-dev3] Forget finding a plumber that can work with it, where does one go for replacement parts?

I think I'll stick with my 300# rated Werner. It's heavy, but lately so am I. The little one Fabry posted last week will get me anywhere the Tele Steps would and it folds up nearly as small for less than 1/3 the price, and it's 300# too. It'll be 20 years in April since my spinal injury; I fell off a ladder and landed on my feet, compressed 3 vertibrae, dislocated my left hip from my spine, pushing it up and rotating it back slightly. The road to recovery is long and painful, and your never the same after a back injury. I feel for the guy.