Bill Kibbel

[?] When they're open, I would think it's easier to evaluate what's inside, without touching them. Okay, so they're not all this easy: http://topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3866 I'm really curious about not touching a J-box w/out a license. Can you pull covers off of panels? Pull a suspect outlet's cover?

I have a few manuals for the most common models I see. Let me know if you need something specific and I'll check. A similar topic was discussed here: https://inspectorsjournal.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=3043

I've only found one. The installation manual was available and clearly stated: "This down-flow furnace is not intended for attic installations", so it was an easy call. I don't remember anything specifically prohibiting it, but I'll try to find my NFPA 31. (Anyone looking at oil systems should have a copy. I should also update my '97 edition) Oil burner pumps probably operate between 100 & 200 psi into the nozzle for atomization. I don't know what they can pull. If a line pump is installed, pressure at the supply inlet to the appliance can only be 3 psi or less.

No, out here it's also called plank-and-beam framing. It's quite different than timber framing. It's not very common for residential structures in these parts but it does exist.

What authoritative source might that be from? (Didn't you worn me that everything on the web might not all be true?) A study, from the mid 90s I think, found electric radiant to be significantly more efficient than all other electric heating systems, including heat pumps. Using individually zoned rooms wisely can also offer major savings over many central "dino fueled" systems that also exhaust lotsa un-captured heat. I've heard that bald HIs don't have any problem evaluating radiant heat in the ceilings. I can't confirm this - yet.

Chad wrote: Are you trying to tell us that there's stuff that aint true on the internet? What a crock. I suppose you'll even try to tell us there's pictures of naked people somewhere on the web. Kyle wrote: I appreciate the company. Thanks to everyone for the replies. I did actually find something that WDMA was fighting a proposed 24" minimum height from the floor. The document indicated a study done in 1999.

I don't know what it was being used for there, but it was probably manufactured as a hand-operated boiler feed pump. Not for a residential heating boiler, but a steam engine boiler. Before a boiler "builds up steam", enough to operate it's steam driven water feed pump, it needs to be fed manually. I have seen horizontal feed pumps that look very much like this. I can clearly see it was not intended to be mounted on the floor or base, but was to be bolted onto something (a steam engine). Around these parts, cisterns are always next to the basement, not below. Water is drawn off a tap, located at the bottom of the foundation wall.

Equipment in a confined space needs 2 vents - one w/in 12" of the top and one w/in 12" of the bottom of the space. Free area of each vent should be 1" for every 1000 Btu/h input of both appliances. With the lower of the vents installed, any combustion then needs to be 18" above the adjacent garage floor. Note: louvered covers over the openings reduces the free area: metal -25%, wood -75%.

I have the '00 and '03 IRC, so I'm aware of the safety glazing requirements and exclusions. I guess I should re-phrase the question. Am I nuts, or wasn't there a requirement at one time that operable windows, above the first level, could not be installed within 24" of the floor? I clearly remember discussions with local building officials on this topic in the very early '80s and reading something about the WDMA protesting any minimum height for windows.

I was in a new home today (a friend of an associate is having some issues w/the builder). I saw that several large double hung windows on the second level are just a few inches from the floor. They have 2 young-uns, the same ages as mine. Long ago, when I was involved with new stuff, some municipalities wouldn't allow any operable windows within 18" of the floor, others required 24" minimum. I remember reading something, probably in the late '90s, that WDMA was protesting any minimum height from the floor. What's the requirement now?

Just cut and paste this into the report: "I know a guy back east that looks at really old boilers every day and even he said 'holy crap, that's ancient'." I'm stealin' your pic for my image collection of stuff that really shouldn't be working anymore.

If I were only permitted to have one, it would be the Protimeter Surveymaster. It's the only one that's always in my pocket to "search and measure". Use the link to Home Inspector Essentials on the front page for a good price.

Most of the recent inserts are designed with an "air wash" system, that pulls air in near the doors and forces combustion gases away from the glass. The air wash system might be blocked, incorrectly installed or air is leaking in from another source, altering the intended air flow.

That's correct, they follow the NESC - National Electric Safety Code, which are the rules that apply to the installation, maintenance and operation of electric supply lines and facilities. Except for OH services. The SEC between the service drop and the meter base are the owner's responsibility (at least around here).

I have most of the info I need for stuff I regularly see. If not, I usually have a bookmark where I can find it on-line.

I send folks this: "Reducing Lead Hazards When Remodeling Your Home". http://www.historicbldgs.com/remodelinglead.pdf

Trane/American Standard: 1st letter/number of serial #: W=83, X=84, Y=85, S=86, B=87, C=88, D=89, E=90, F=91, G=92, H=93, J=94, K=95, L=96, M=97, N=98, P=99, R=00, Z=01 2=02, 3=03, 4=04, 5=05, 6=06, 7=07 Randy, Evap Coil is also '98. I've never had to use Preston's. [:-graduat

That 94 is in the model #, not serial. Trane/American Standard: 1st letter of serial # I think N = '98

In a post on a great topic in the report writing forum, Mike O' wrote: "I think you'd find that a lot of us on this board inspect in much the same way, and that each of us could learn much from each other". I immediately thought: "I bet some of the TIJ guys have little tricks, short-cuts, safety procedures or methods that I would never think of." Does anyone have anything that might be unique and would be willing to share to help the rest of us do what we do? I might think some things others do wouldn't fit in with my standard procedure, but I'm sure there's many things that would be very helpful. For (a lame) example: I do whatever I can to look inside chimneys, from the top and the bottom. Most buildings I inspect have oil boilers and chimneys don't have clean-outs. Quite a few have flue connectors that are very loose at the chimney. For some reason, many accidentally fall out when I'm nearby, allowing me to get a great shot up the flue with my camera. Others have draft control dampers close enough to the chimney that I can reach through it with my camera for a shot up the flue (or at least of the pile of debris at the bottom, that used to be the flue).

I can't think of many manufactured products today that will last 50 years. Here's some more that Les probably remembers working on (or even installed): http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/whh/pages/water-heater-museum-home.html

The above two posters show one of the symptoms of being around too many improperly vented combustion appliances. I just get a headache and take a nap before I gets dat goofy.

That's what I used to call it until I was scolded by folks that have access to, and study, primary documents pertaining to old buildings. Only recent generations refer to a tenon as a "tongue".

That's the best I can do with the Firefox browser. I can't do the link thingie to a larger image. Kind of - it's a fork & tenon joint. The one in the center of the image failed. This is what I have found in my region:

What's a ridge board?

Yeah Mike, nothin' but ramshackled huts down there.http://www.virtualvallarta.com/puertovallarta/realestate/mdc/index.shtml Could be a seasonal or tag-team operation with a few months down and a few months back home.