Bill Kibbel

Probably need to rename the image w/out the space and bracket thingies. Without seeing the pic, I offer the following: Hardi will show everything uneven behind it more than any other wall covering. (The edge of a sheathing panel not quite flush at a seam, a bowed stud, a blind nail not quite flush, a big spider caught behind the housewrap, etc.)

I'm Certain they gave this to your client in writing. Your client will Certainly share the document with you. I'm Certain you will post it on the web for all the homeowners that have been denied warranty claims for any one of those issues.

After the inspection, I dictate (I talks better than I rites) the entire report into a digital recorder and e-mail it to a typist. I get the report the next day, review it and e-mail it to the client. I get to visit with hundreds of HIs each year at numerous seminars and where this topic is going is a fairly common discussion. Anyone who has heard me speak knows that I am favorably disposed toward detailed, fully narrative reports that are individually unique to the property inspected. If you can provide that onsite, after a thorough inspection, before the sellers come home and cook dinner, I’d be impressed. Do more than 1 a day and provide the above and I’d be absolutely amazed. I have a theory that 2 distinct beliefs have evolved amongst HIs about the importance of the report. Some of the comments that I have heard from Camp A: “I do such a great inspection and explain things so thoroughly that a detailed report isn’t necessary.â€

"So what is the general consensus?" How about we apply some common sense? If in an area where there is a potential for flying, floating or walking equipment, advise that it be anchored.

I haven't seen a concrete pad in a decade. They are either UV resistant plastic, fiberglass or fiber reinforced cement coating over polystyrene around here. Regarding anchoring because of vibration, it's not necessary. Shoot, I gave mine legs and it's never walked away. http://uploads/inspecthistoric/200681212551_P8010001.JPG

Ages ago, I was involved with converting apartment buildings for the disabled that received State and Federal funding. The requirement at that time for panelboards was 48" max and 15" min height from the floor. Other than the above, I have never found a minimum height requirement. I've looked because of the occasional panels I find in crawlspaces.

"Is it just me or does Bain's puppy look like Kurt." That's quite a compliment Scott. I haven't known Kurt too long, but I've known many German Shepherds. Not only do they have the same country of origin, but share many characteristics: Superior intelligence, nobility, loyal bravery, incorruptible character, great working ability and an intelligent expression that commands attention.

Wet fingers holding a 6d nail is all I need to analyze a 240v outlet.

I get to see that on EVERY panel that has an open knock-out. We don't have two-tone mice though, only gray. Did an 1830s church yesterday. The 2 HVAC systems had the sheet metal returns buried in the ground below the crawlspace. Got my head into both to see them rusted through, partly filled with mud and piles of dead mice in varying degrees of decomposition.

"I was wondering if anyone has a theory on what would cause this type of corrosion." I always suspect water is entering the service cable. Most of the time I find that to be the cause. No drip loop at connection to OH service. Water in conduit if UG service (capillary action). SEC connection to top of meter box not sealed. No drip loop at SEC connection to side of meter box. Damaged SEC covering. "...the realtor kept repeating that it had already passed city inspection." Around these parts, the few municipalities that do a re-sale inspection do not remove the cover, much less note much of anything important.

"Thankfully, here in Hawaii, we don't have a snake issue, from what I'm told." Yeah, but isn't that where a couple of termites take down a house in an afternoon?

"I sent it to the realtor in an email, as a 'sample' report from my company. There was nothing in the report that said it was for that particular house, or for any particular buyer, so I'm pretty sure I'm safe. Any thoughts?" Yeah. It doesn't smell right and I would never, ever do that. That second buyer needs to hire an inspector to do an inspection and write a report for HIM/HER. That report, even though it has been slightly altered, was contracted and payed for by the first buyer. It's his/her property. When I get asked about a second report, I tell them they MUST get their own inspection and I won't do it a second time unless at least a year has passed since the first one. I don't want anyone getting the impression that the second inspection is a just a walk-through to point out what I found the first time. The buyers always completely understand my reasoning and then ask for a referal for another inspector. That's my thoughts.

In NJ, the agreement has to have specific language included. Read N.J.A.C. 13:40-15:15 and 15-169(B). The E & O carriers writing policies in NJ also want certain language included. The BoD of the Southern NJ Chapter of ASHI, in collaboration with attorneys, the insurers, seriously experienced home inspectors and court experts, have just completed a pre-inspection agreement that will soon be available to any NJ licensed inspector. The cost of the agreement, even to non-members of the Chapter, will be a tiny fraction of what you would expect to pay a contract attorney that doesn't know squat about HIs.

I regularly find chimneys that aren't directly supported by the earth. The ones that were originally built that way were usually installed for venting a coal cook stove in the kitchen. They are always keyed into a masonry wall. The one in the photo might have had an amputation. The wrinkles in the left wall could be a sign that it has had enough of the extra load. I would sure expect to find a patch in the floor below that chimney. I get a lot of buildings with multiple chimneys. It's easy to loose track of them throughout the interior. I make it a point to locate each one passing through every level. It's surprising how many abandoned chimneys still extend through the roof but have had a significant portion removed on the interior. They're not always this easy to find: http://uploads/inspecthistoric/200672521130_chimshort.JPG%20

I stole this ages ago and never documented the source: "Unless you are very familiar with the operation and maintenance of the water heater, you should contact a plumber, to do the work. * Replace or remove the magnesium anode. Many water heaters have a magnesium anode, which is attached to a plug located on top of the water heater. It can be removed by turning off the water, releasing the pressure from the water heater, and unscrewing the plug. Be sure to plug the hole. Removal of the anode, however, may significantly decrease the life of the water heater. You may wish to consult with a reputable water heater dealer to determine if a replacement anode made of a different material, such as aluminum, can be installed. A replacement anode may provide corrosion protection without contributing to the production of hydrogen sulfide gas. * Disinfect and flush the water heater with a chlorine bleach solution. Chlorination can kill sulfur bacteria, if done properly. If all bacteria are not destroyed by chlorination, the problem may return within a few weeks. * Increase the water heater temperature to 160 degrees Fahrenheit for several hours. This will destroy the sulfur bacteria. Flushing to remove the dead bacteria after treatment should control the odor problem. CAUTION: Increasing the water heater temperature can be dangerous. Before proceeding, consult with the manufacturer regarding an operable pressure relief valve, and for other recommendations. Be sure to lower the thermostat setting and make certain the water temperature is reduced following treatment to prevent injury from scalding hot water."

Mine is also manufactured by Halex and it reads: "Used to terminate two runs of armored cable; metal clad cable; or flexible metal conduit to a 1/2" knock out" I dont think the clamp is intended for NM.

Junction box cover: $ .29Gas used to get cover: $10.35Total savings: $10.64 !!! Click To Enlarge Many thanks to William Kibbel III Tri-County Inspection Co., Inc. Yardley, PA

Your guess is correct. It is officially called a "Duplex armored and metal clad cable conduit connector".

It looks like USP on the stamp. There was a company named "US Plywood" that I think was acquired by Georgia-Pacific. Maybe you can find something helpful here: http://www.sidingconsultants.com/IDENTIFY.HTM

Horizontal trim board between levels of a building or at transition between different siding materials. More commonly called a band board now.

It will not kill and/or remove existing moss. The zinc will help keep it from growing or returning, but for only about 3'-4' below the strip. Zinc sulfate is a common ingredient in moss control products to prevent, not eliminate moss growth.

Does any one have enough knowledge of CREIA to be able to compare their membership test to the NHIE or NAHI CRI? Thanks

Ferrous metal in contact with soil must have protection from corrosion (that satisfies the building official). Protective coatings and wrappings must be factory applied. There is something else and I can't remember it now.

Great article. Nice save. "They found they could buy and move a house for about the same price as building a new one." I caught pieces of 2 episodes of Mega Movers on the History Channel. If you get the chance, check it out. http://www.historychannel.com/megamovers/?page=about

I've heard and read the term "compressed cement tile" over there. They were referring to what we call cement-asbestos shingles here. Jim wrote: "I've inspected a fair number of concrete tile roofs by just walking on them with my very own feet." That's great! I'm still leasing a pair.