Bill Kibbel

There are some very smart folks here at TIJ. The truth is, when I discovered the first one (an in-ground model), I had absolutely no clue what it was or it’s purpose on a very rural dairy farm. I could only read the word “acetyleneâ€

I wasn't intentionally dragging this out. I'm out in Central PA for a meeting and seminar and this is my first chance to get connected. I knew this would bring Chad out of hiding. It looks like Joe, Chad & Les had it figured out, then Scott comes along and describes the process. The above isn't my photo, but it's interesting because most generators drop the carbide pellets into standing water. http://uploads/inspecthistoric/2006324222440_acetylenegen.jpg More on Acetylene generators from 1901: http://panam1901.bfn.org/miscbuildings/acetylene/acetylene_article.htm

Can anyone guess what this is? Hints: - I've only seen 4; 3 at very rural 19th C farms and one at a remote late 19th C train station. - 2 were in-ground models. - After I describe what they are, folks always ask if it would be possible to restore them to working condition.

I'm surprised. I've seen hundreds in both PA & NJ. SWG power vents (by Field Controls) are listed and recommended by the top manufacturers of oil-fired heating equipment. Peerless, New Yorker and Crown have direct vent oil-fired boilers. Bock has an oil-fired direct vent water heater. I don't usually inspect buildings clad in Tupperware, but discoloration from a sidewall vent doesn't surprise me. I wouldn't think it wouldn't be reversible.

Pennsylvania is pretty clear. "An action to recover damages arising from a home inspection report must be commenced within one year after the date the report is delivered". Chapter 75 starts on page 7. http://www.parealtor.org/content/AssetMgmt/Legal%20Services/Laws%20&%20Regulations/Dislcosure%20-%20Inspection.pdf

Hi Wayne, Since I made it my policy to no longer purchase from HI suppliers, I save 35%-60% on equipment purchases. I'll read their glossy catalog each quarter, then contact the manufacturer of a product for a distributor. dealer.locator@toro.com

I'm no electrical guru, but I do see quite a few generators out here. 1. For residential, it is referred to as "Optional Standby Systems" if you want to look up a reference. It will say something about it being required to have transfer equipment installed to prevent inadvertent interconnection of normal and alternate power supplies. 3. In the absence of a transfer switch, there should be linkage between the main breaker and the generator breaker called a "breaker interlock mechanism".

Click To Enlarge Contributed by Jim Baird Baird Associates Home Inspectors Comer, GA

I think it's a regional thing. Type K or L can be used if the gas contains very little hydrogen sulfide and the code official and/or supplier permits it's use. Metallic piping around here is always black steel for NG. Copper is common for LP.

"...how in the world, Bill, did you know about the three faces of DavePHD, ??? Are you clairvoyant or something? I'd have never put the pieces of that puzzle together." Probably because I've been a HI too long. I'm always suspicious of everything, so I gather clues, add them up and try to convince everyone that my conclusion is right. Probably why no one hangs out with me anymore - 'cept other HIs.

"...they only require the grounds and neutrals to be on separate buses if the main breaker is located away from the panel" If the main breaker was part of this panel, then it is the service equipment and the neutrals would not be isolated. If this panel was separate from the main breaker, then it is after the service equipment and the grounds and neutrals would need to be separated.

Sorry Michael, I guess I missed your previous post. There's really not much to describe. It's a very simple structure and like many 17th century secondary buildings, was not constructed to be the most permanent of structures. It was a reproduction of a plantation worker's cottage (indentured servants up here). The focus was on demonstrating the craft, not the final result. The sill timbers were hand hewn locust, and the remaining timbers were oak, reclaimed from a dismantled barn. The foundation was nothing more than river stone from the Delaware, placed on grade to keep the sills off the ground. All timber joints were mortise and tenon, except the braces, which were attached to the posts and rafter sills with half-lap dovetail joints. All m&t joints were pegged with "trennels" (tree nails). Three framed bents created two bays. These bents were raised and then secured with the rafter sills. The rafters are joined at the peak with fork & tenon joints and then are simply pegged into the rafter sills. Hand split oak was used for the spaced wood battens for nailing the shingles. The wattle and daub consisted of split oak lathe installed vertically within the frames and willow was woven horizontally through the lathe. The daub consisted of clay, mud, cattle poo and straw. The weatherboards were hand split oak without planing the face or edges. This was all completed with hand tools of the period. No tool used was less than 210 years old. There was no fireplace, but other original buildings' fireplaces, chimneys and some foundations at this site were brick. Most likely the brick came from Britain as ballast for ships coming over to return with some resources from the colony.

I built a similar timber framed reproduction at a 17th century farm museum. The early settlers up here had sense enough to install weatherboards to protect the frame, wattle and daub. We didn't use thatch, but covered the roof with white oak shingles. I did assist with repairs to a thatched roof in MA and actually inspected an early 18th century tavern with reed thatch. It's the only inspection report that I ever used the terms "fixings, sways & liggers".

That really makes me appreciate what my Township does to preserve our rural community. http://terraserver.microsoft.com/image.aspx?T=1&S=10&Z=18&X=2383&Y=22423&W=3

There's nothing I know of that says you can't. (but why would you?) I think it would be no different than 2 grounding electrodes for the service equipment. http://uploads/inspecthistoric/200638185551_outbldgsub.gif I've been having problems with sub panels in outbuildings. I'm doing inspections on farms for new buyers that I've inspected before (prior to the '99 NEC when sub feeds were treated as SECs and the neutral conductor was required to be bonded to the outbuilding's enclosure and connected to a grounding electrode). The sellers (my clients before '99) are pissed that I'm saying it's wrong now.

"Very common, and not necessarily all that easy to see if you aren't looking for them." I've found a majority of the cracks using a mirror. The vent in that picture can't be right.

"That is why they have a clearly marked 'Top'" Probably need to add it in a second language.

This happens quite frequently around here. My wife tired of waiting for me to check/clean one of our chimneys for the dining room fp, so she called a sweep. They told her it needed $3800 worth of repairs or the house will burn down. Went on to say that if she doesn't have the work done immediately, they're required to report it to the fire marshal who will condemn the home. Sold a house a few years ago in a municipality that requires chimney certs as part of the resale c/o. You have to use an approved sweep on their list. The first one said the open hearth fireplace flue was unlined, needed a s/s liner and can only be used with an insert. I showed him the contract, permit and inspection of the cast-in-place liner I had installed when we restored the home. He quickly left without asking for a check.

Did you add the last line to your first post with an edit, or am I loosing my eyesight?

Uh Darren, "Retain copies of all home inspection reports prepared pursuant to ©2 above, for a period of five years upon completion of the report" We toss everything paper that's over 5 years. I don't know how far back we have on cds.

Pleko - Isn't that the insurance Co. with the lizard? It looks like "direct apply" acrylic stucco. It was common on economy commercial buildings. Often applied over cmu construction (You still see the mortar joints). It also was used for residential, but usually applied to soffits and porch ceilings. I'm not familiar with that brand, but most is applied over exterior grade plywood, not gypsum.

Could it be the adhesive strip bonds too well and doesn't permit expansion without tearing the tabs? I could be way off. I spend most of my time looking at slate and metal.

I installed some Pella clad casement windows on our addition last year. I just dug out the installation instructions. Their flashing instructions are called "Integrating the window to the water resistive barrier". In other words, installing flashing tape. The final instruction is "Sealing the window to the exterior wall cladding". For wood siding and trim, they specify a 3/8" gap, backer rod and sealant. Maybe I should have read the instructions before installing them. I need to go out now and tear off the head flashing.

When we do research on historic buildings, or study old building materials and practices, I only rely on primary sources. That's probably why I've never even seen a Code Check book, except for the advert in the PE catalog. I'm no JP, but I do rely on the big blue book frequently. Brian, here's a J.P.ism: A kid parked his big wheel in front of the service equipment panel = inadequate working space. E3305.1

I've read heated discussions amongst HIs about TPRs discharging to the exterior. I've seen it done twice out of 10,000+ boilers and water heaters. I figure it's a regional thing.