Bill Kibbel

Could be. Chalking typically occurs as the paint film degrades releasing pigment particles. Premature chalking can occur if the paint was applied too thin or excess thinner was added (like when using a sprayer) or if the manufacturer didn't get the correct ratio of pigment to vehicle. It can also occur if the paint was applied to a cold or absorbent surface.

I do many old multi-occupancy buildings where each units' service equipment (main disconnects) are all located in the basement. Each unit then has a local "sub panel". I believe the six throw rule only applies to the service equipment, but "each occupant shall have ready access to all overcurrent devices protecting the conductors supplying that occupancy". Many building owners are unaware of this and do not make the utility room, where the main disconnects are located, accessible to tenants.

Now that 6 months has passed since the last post on this thread, I would appreciate an update of your experiences with telescopic ladders. I'm growing tired of lugging a 20' extension ladder into buildings to get above 9' ceilings and dragging it up onto addition roofs to get to the top of mansard roofs. Which is better, Xtend & Climb or Telesteps?

Since I don't go into Phila. anymore, I've been able to downsize. I carry 28' & 20' extensions and 8' & 6' Steps. Each one gets used several times a week. They are all Werner 200 lb (I'm 160). The 28' has been replaced 3 times in 19 years due to wear. No other problems with Werner's. Unless you're doing 100+ year old urban buildings, I would suggest the 28' as a minimum.

The original part of my last home was log built in 1690. I've been involved with several other 17th and early 18th century log homes that were well preserved. Had a log "cabin" in VA built around 1850. Inspected probably over 120. All have been chestnut or oak. Unless sub termites have been feasting unchecked and the logs are above grade, they seem to hold up well. Why do these examples survive? Two reasons: 1. The timbers are hewn square. It removes most of the sapwood (except for the corners of the square) the heartwood is more resistant to decay and powder post beetles aren't interested in the core. 2. Primary documentation consistently indicates that the logs were always covered with weatherboards immediately after construction. In the late 19th century, owners of these older log homes removed the cladding to expose the rustic character. Thanks to Abe being born in a log cabin, many new ones were built in the last quarter of that century with the most rustic designs possible. This included using round logs with the bark left on. I would suggest consulting with the ultimate expert of 19th century log construction, Doug Reed Preservation Associates, Inc. Phone: 301-791-7880 Email: Dcraigreed@aol.com

Darren, Allen Insurance Group is not writing or renewing north of I-195. Don, It's Probably the preferred vendors and well known "assist with the sale" inspectors that are booked up. We can accommodate within 7 days.

That's not quite correct. A3983 passed out of the Assembly Regulated Professions and Independent Authorities Committee last Thursday WITH AMENDMENTS. There has been no action since. There are more steps in both the Assembly and Senate before this Bill can become law. You stated: "it does not really affect me personally". With one major E&O carrier already pulling out of NJ and another doubling rates and deductibles, what's going to happen if this bill passes? One of the amendments will be the final nail in the coffin. How can a licensed HI, required to carry E&O, keep his license if there is no one writing or renewing policies in the State?

After the first time you see and feel true EIFS, you will recognize it before you even get out of your truck for the inspection. I was fortunate to have been to Chapter meetings where sections, removed from a building, where passed around for show and tell before I ever saw it in the field. The first clue I notice is the windows are recessed from the wall surface. Typically, the foam board is applied after the windows are installed creating a "return" of the stucco to the frames. The first time I came across a synthetic stucco top coat over traditional, I was nervous. I called the builder from the inspection and drove to a development where they were currently working to prove to myself it wasn't EIFS. I always pull exterior outlets and click a photo showing the wire and cement base coats. That has stopped the calls from lenders and insurers questioning my report. Fortunately, the only stucco I see now is lime render over 18" thick fieldstone walls. Traditional or EIFS, why doesn't anyone install kick-outs at the termination of roof-to-wall joints?

Probably the cedar tree borer - semantus ligneus (or something like that). The larva bore into the tree and tunnel out as adults. Rustic cedar furniture makers pay a premium for stock that has been attacked.

I can think of worse States to be from (about 40) and the one you moved to is about at the bottom. [] (I went to school in Springfield and have family in Dayton & Cleveland.)

I see this condition almost daily. Typically, a very thin layer of concrete was added later only as a soil covering. No gravel, vapor barrier or reinforcing mesh is present. As the concrete cracks and settles over soft soil, the other edge lifts. There is sometimes soil erosion from water movement and heaving as water rises under the concrete. It can also be a result of failed waste lines washing out soil under the slab. Looking at the second photo, showing pretty ancient cast waste lines penetrating the floor, I would suspect this may be a probable cause.

Jim C, Thanks, I passed the info along to her. I love the picture on Don's homepage. www.staffordinspections.com That's what I look like every day. When nobody shows up with a key, I go in through the doggy door. Chad, I don't know. Nobody mentioned your name, but thanks.

I was contacted by a potential buyer of an 1893 "Victorian" house for sale in Terrell, TX (40 min. outside of Dallas). She was disappointed that we don't have any members there, so she asked if we knew anyone with old house experience she could contact. I thought I'd check here, where all the best hang out.

jhagarty, That is correct. 51 rooms. I spent about 7 hours just in the basements and crawlspaces. Donald, sorry for the thread hijack. Hope you found what you were looking for.

Based on comments posted here, I went ahead and sided my addition with it. Everything I read on TIJ was positive, unless I missed something. One post said they have had it on their home for 12 years w/out issue. Another post said they keep checking a piece stuck in the mud for failures. I think Chad said he has a plank in his pond as an experiment. The only negative I have found is it looks bad over bowed framing.

Donald, Try the LSMA (The Lickum Stickum Masonry Assoc.) [:-slaphap Sorry, this is the closest I get to any fake masonry: It's a 25,000 sq. ft. home constructed of cast stone in the late 20's. Your State might have a masonry council that may have published construction standards. Or you can try masonrydetails.com if their website is completed.

I haven't punched a hole for probably 15 years. I got tired of being yelled at by sellers or listing agents. I use this: www.professionalequipment.com/product_i ... roduct.jpg The dual K-Type thermocouple probes fit in any gap or seam and it saves time by measuring the temp diff automatically. (I don't have to remember how to do subtraction)

Steven, I just wanted to add that some of the marketing funds are distributed to the Chapters for local marketing. The two NJ Chapters are a little slow in putting the money to work yet. My (South NJ) Chapter is just getting started with a few projects and hope to do some joint projects with the North Jersey Chapter. I have had a few referrals directly from ASHI which have generated additional referrals from the clients. One was a one year warranty inspection (I hate new homes). After my ASHI referred client told everyone at a neighborhood party how I ripped his house apart, everyone in the development has booked. The direct-from-ASHI referrals will never beat the referrals from fellow ASHI members.

First and most important, I believe the word is "edgumakate". Use your spell check please. The by-pass duct is there to relieve static pressure when less than all zones are operating. There should be a pressure regulating damper with a counter balanced weighted arm installed in the by-pass.

I freaked when I read that you operated a cooling system in February. I just drove home through a blinding snow squall and guess I forgot there are different climates in this country. I personally don't rely too heavily on the temp. difference readings as the sole determining factor of a system's performance. Too often, inadequate return air flow can create acceptable delta T's when, in fact, the system is performing poorly. If it looked like the one that was posted earlier, I don't think I would have a problem reporting it as damaged, beyond repair and in need of replacement.

It seems that the ball valve w/drain was added after installation. Isn't that a repair coupling after the elbow above the tank? The cap was removed from the valve's drain to connect the tubing. I would think water would be discharging continuously. We answer a lot of questions during an inspection. The one I can't always answer is "Why the hell did someone do that?"

John, just found this: www.solatube.com/downloads/install21.pdf Page 5 mentions screwing the tube sections and page 6 shows the suspension wires.

I saw one of these installed by a homeowner, think it was "Solatube". After slammin' it like Kurt, the homeowner handed me the install instructions. The tape is required, but there should be 3 screws at each tube joint. There should also be a suspension wire kit (sold separately but unknown to the home center where it was purchased) that is basically some 16 gauge wire and eye bolts.

No problem, they're both fine examples of Queen Anne.

Anything that is an extension off the second (or third) floor of a house, I call a balcony. A sleeping porch is usually integral with the structure.