Bill Kibbel

A series of columns placed at regular intervals is called a colonnade. During the 19th century in America, a series of columns placed at regular intervals that supports a roof over the main entry on the FACADE of a building was called a portico. The roofs are usually flat (except during the Greek revival period) and are usually square, rectangular or semicircular. Everything else was typically called a porch. The word gallery is typically used when referring to an exterior covered corridor that is open at the sides. Now Southerners may use these terms differently. The 2-story porch, so common on facades in the South, is usually at the side of a rear ell here.

I enjoyed the responses from Kurt's Romanesque so I am trying another one for those who want to play along. What style and why? Download Attachment: myers1.jpg 110.23 KB Check out the funky little dormer. Download Attachment: myers2.jpg 22.05 KB

Well, I am very impressed with the responses. I was just hoping someone would mention Romanesque. I didn't expect Architectural Historians masquerading as Home Inspectors discussing specific characteristics. "Romanesque" and "Romanesque Revival" are both used to label this style built from about 1870 to as late as 1900 although some experimentation with Romanesque features are seen on some churches and other buildings as early as mid-1840's. Some common elements include: -Round arches over windows and/or entryways. -Thick, cavernous entryways. - Windows recessed from the exterior wall surface. (windows sometimes flush with the interior walls) -Rounded, square and sometimes octagonal towers and turrets. -Polychromatic exteriors with contrasting building materials. The most noticeable influence of H. H. Richardson on the style was using rusticated stone, contrasting hues of color and textures at belt courses and arches, bands of windows, arches that begin at ground level and unique sculptured stone accents.

Not much of it left. From the pic, it looks like it's missing its point, some garniture and three scrolls. When Kurt climbs up on top of it he'll see where the point broke off of the ball. Now who can name the style of the building? If anyone says Victorian, they'll be staying after class.

Chad is correct. I usually just shorten the chain rather than write it up. I know from personal experience there isn't much else to do in Rochester in Winter.

Steven, Fire suppression grenades before 1900 typically contained salt water and some type of ammonia. After 1900, Kurt is correct. They typically contain carbon tetrachloride which have both short term and chronic health concerns. The EPA considers it probable carcinogen.

Maybe I can help balance the scale. I agree with Kurt. Here are my reasons: 1. By the end of the inspection my client should be as knowledgeable as I am about the property. 2. I've seen too many reports that are either poorly written, horrible software or computer generated checklists that don't describe conditions adequately. Adding photos doesn't do anything to improve these types of reports that seem to dominate this profession. Now I do have a digital camera on me at all times and use it for specific reasons. For example, I can plug it directly into a TV in my van to show a condition found on the roof, inside a chimney or in a crawlspace that my client could not view for themselves. I will also include a photo in a report if I thought it would be helpful to a contractor to find a specific location for an item needing repair. I will only include many photos throughout the report if the client could not attend, it is a commercial property or if the clients are a group of investors, board of directors, etc. I am very concerned that there may be many inspectors out there not generating understandable, useful reports because they are relying on photos and software to do most of the work for them.

We pull every panel cover. I typically do not operate circuit breakers unless the building is unoccupied. GFCIs yes. AFCI's are rare in buildings I inspect. Main cartridge fuses can often be viewed through the little slits in the holder. Joe, Welcome to TIJ. For those that may not know him, Mr. Tedesco is the most knowledgeable person I have met when it comes to electrical. I have attended more than 1100 hours of continuing ed. and I'd say that Joe's presentation was one of the top three. I hate finding out there's stuff I didn't know.

Canis Urina (Doggy Tinkle) The uric acid dissolves the fins rapidly. If you haven't seen this before, just wait, you will. This ain't a few bent fins. It needs replacement.

Many people have their own stories about washer hoses. Our hot water hose burst right near the valve and my wife couldn't turn it off without scalding. I never showed her where the main shut off is, but I show every client. I tell all my clients to install braided ss hoses and add: "most SS are guaranteed not to leak for 10 years. The rubber ones are guaranteed to leak when your away on vacation!"

I believe it is a minimum 16" of clear floor space on either side of the centerline of a toilet to walls or other fixtures. I think the 18" from centerline is for a lavatory. If it is in the original old part of your home, I wouldn't worry about it anyway. Since most homes I see weren't built with indoor plumbing, bathrooms are often created in spaces smaller than most modern closets.

Thanks for the offer Chad, but I'm almost done. It went pretty well without any special tools. "Any tool can be the right tool for the job." -Red Green

Kevin, Your plan sounds okay to me. But I personally would not choose an OSB product for any application in my own home, much less for exterior cladding panels. Why not a fiber cement product? I am in the process of installing Hardie lap siding on an addition to my home. I chose this product based on Chad Fabry's endorsement in another thread. (If it ever fails, I'm confident Chad would come down and replace it!) www.hardie.com/homeowner/prodhome/hardipanel.php With fiber cement panels, I would install 2"x2" verticles 24" OC and fill the space with 1-1/2" rigid board insulation. If your concerned with moisture, use insulation board manufactured for use with "drainage EIFS" that has channels cut into the board.

Mike has nailed the issues with this shake roof with precision. The photo shows only one small area of a roof with many installation deficiencies. The skylight does not have any curb or step flashings, but rather a site-built flange that obviously didn't work as indicated by the caulking. The stone is actually the wall of the original farmhouse above this recent addition. There are no step/counter flashings. An experienced roofer would have cut a kerf in the masonry to set in a counter flashing. The side lap of many of the shakes is much less than 1-1/2" between joints in adjacent courses. Like Mike said, many joints are actually aligned! Finally, the spacing between many of the shakes is less than the required 3/8". Mike, were there any other responses? It would be helpful to see how others would word their report on these issues.

I asked a similar question years ago when CPVC and even PB started appearing as T&PR extensions. The answer I got from the gurus was it should be rated at 210 degrees (the max temp. at which the valves are supposed to open). Anyone else see garden hose for T&PR extensions? What is their temp. rating?

Now I haven't read any reports from those on this board, but it is well known here that we put out the best report. After all, it is the final product. It is not only used for the transaction, but is retained as an informative document throughout ownership of the property. After each inspection, we dictate the report using a digital recorder. At the end of the day, the voice files and images are e-mailed to one of several typists who have had significant training. They take care of the typing, e-mail, fax, or mail the next day. This works well for me as my verbal skills are much better than my writing. I can also dictate about as fast as the guy in the Fed Ex commercials. The typists have set up some kind of template or master document for each inspector that covers the basic format and common comments, but each report is completely unique. Other advantages include: - The report only contains information specific to the property. - The typists are very good at picking up grammatical and even technical errors and can question the inspector about any issues. - We employ work-at-home Moms. - It takes me 45-60 minutes to dictate about 40 pages of text. - More time to visit TIJ and learn to be a better inspector.

Jim, I agree with you and Steve but I rarely encounter it. I don't think it was common practice here until the twenties. Could it be possible that it had been applied after original construction? This is the youngest home I have inspected in recent memory. The "Hall" of a 1928, 25,000 sq. ft. residence FD820026.JPG 33.38 KB

Chad, I think that's great! I have been doing restoration consulting on selected weekends for many, many years. It certainly doesn't bring the income of home inspections but it is enjoyable. My involvement with several historic sites, districts and societies has also generated many, many referrals. You obviously have a deep appreciation of historic architecture/workmanship and probably know this stuff, but I'd like to post the following for others following this thread. Some Preservation Standards: - Study the historic architectural styles in your regoin. - Encourage preservation of original components. - Identify changes that have taken place over time. - Identify and encourage preservation of distinctive features or examples of skilled craftsmanship. - Recommend repair rather than replacement of worn or damaged historic architectural features when possible. - When replacement is necessary, prescribe new materials that match the old in design, composition, and color. - If alterations or additions are anticipated, encourage compatible designs that do not destroy significant historic architectural features.

Danny, Vulkem is manufactured by Tremco. They do not have a product called Vulcrum. He either mispronounced it or can't read the label too well!

To my knowledge "Vulkem", is not a roofing system. One of their products is an elastomeric, aluminized coating that is applied over built-up roofing systems that have had major repairs or the ballast removed. Another Vulkem product is for sealing ponds, pools, parapets and walk decks. It has a squeegee applied urethane basecoat topped with an elastomeric topcoat applied with a roller (not aluminized, but available in several colors).

Brian, After a visual inspection & testing for leaks, I fire up anything. I wouldn't want my client to be the first to try it after settlement. That's what sets us apart from our competitors.

A few questions: After being subject to years of spam from Nick Gromico, NACHI's owner/founder, why would I want to fill in the required fields with all of my contact info to try the test? Why does Gromico reply to requests to not receive any more spam with nonsense and profanity? What percentage of the failed tests are existing NACHI members?

The felt strips should be 18". The bottom edge of the felt should be above the bottom of the shake at twice the exposure. For example, with 24" shakes, felts extend up 14" onto the sheathing. Done correctly, I usually have to use a flashlight to look up under the courses to even see the felts. The spacing between shakes should be between 3/8" and 5/8". Forget the Caravan, my full size Dodge conversion could pass through. The side lap appears to be less than 1 1/2" between joints in adjacent courses.

Rob't, I would guess it to be an electric furnace with a/c. 1. If it were a heat pump, there would most likely be a reversing valve visible in the outdoor unit. 2. Standard t-stats for heat pumps have 2 mercury switches. 3. I don't think I have ever seen a heat pump that old. 4. I lost count of how many Realtors and even sellers that have listed electric furnaces as heat pumps.

Jim, I'm not sure what you mean by twisted as I only (frequently) see what I would describe as leaning. There are 2 theories: - Sulphates from the exhaust of solid fuel condense on the coldest side of the chimney causing expansion in the lime based mortar joints. - Erosion to the mortar joints occurs on the prevailing wind/rain side of the chimney. You can see this in the older sections of any eastern city. Look at rows of identical 100+ year old homes and all their chimneys are leaning in the same direction. I have never taken the time to correlate which direction.