Bill Kibbel

Float glass was not produced in the US until after 1960. Pullman was manufacturing the original tape spring balance in 1886 (& still do).

Yes - an astute roofer would have mixed the shingles to avoid the repeating pattern. No - it won't be in the instructions on the bundle wrapper. The manufacturer will not be replacing that roof.

If it gets enough sun and regular watering, it can quickly produce new buds.

My knowledge of house part chronology of post 1900 buildings is rather limited. That being disclosed, I would expect to see a cord/weight/pulley system or a tape spring balance system in the window jambs of a 1910 home. The jamb liners could've been retrofitted later - like when the cotton ropes broke. Sash construction and glass manufacture method would be a better guide to the vintage of the windows.

- Cuz da book says it's a no-no. - Probably because one sink fill of water draining might siphon the other trap.

I think NM-B is rated at 90°C. 10 gauge cu wire, rated at 90°C, is capable of handling a max of 40 amps. There are "adjustment factors" that changes the allowable breaker size to 30 amps. I think the adjustment factors are due to things like cramming 2 or more wires through a hole in a top plate and then draft-stop material gets crammed in there too. At least that's how it is in my brain this late at night.

FiOS won't make it out to here - ever. Verizon laughed at me when I asked if we would ever have DSL. The cable Co. said they might be able to do "one-way" internet access in a decade. I get cellular signal if I climb 30 yards up the mt. Here's me, checkin' in with my office:

That's not double trapping - that's 2 traps on 1 arm.

Any chance the wire was rated for 90°C?

So, If you don't keep your farts warm they generate condensation? Sorry, I'm not being helpful. [:-dunce] I would think that it would be required on dryer vents before bath exhaust vents.

In addition to what Brandon posted, they're also needed at the edges of the narrow panels that often end up near the ridge. If the plywood is ripped down to between 16" & 24", H-clips or blocking should be used. 12"-16" requires blocking only. <12", both edges need blocking. From the dips that I see, near the ridges of lotsa McMansions, edge support isn't being regularly installed.

Yes - it should trip any GFCI device upstream of the outlet being tested. Sometimes it's lotsa fun trying to find it after it trips.

It can be a problem, depending on certain other factors. Many years ago, I contacted a manu. rep about an installation that had about 15' of buried lineset. (They wanted the outdoor unit behind the pool fence) He explained the issue and why many specs don't allow or at least recommend against it. If the air handler is in an above grade floor of the home, the lineset is lower than the evaporator and condenser. In the off cycle, with the ground being cooler, the refrigerant can condense into a liquid. When the system kicks on, the liquid can then be pumped into the compressor. Liquid doesn't compress. He mentioned troubleshooting many systems that had gone through several compressors, before they contacted him to identify the problem.

Under 125 gallon - can be at house, but 5' from windows, vents & 10' from ignition source. 125-500 gal. - 10' from house & other buildings. 500 gal.+ - 25" from house & other buildings.

http://ocw.mit.edu/OcwWeb/Architecture/ ... /index.htm

So you were already aware of the aggressive behavior of that suburban predator freakinbitchitus realtyagentis? I had to find out the hard way. I was in a crawl this week with a fox family. Some time ago, I read the lectures for the Analysis of Historic Structures course. Here's my bookmark: http://www.ocw.mit.edu/OcwWeb/Architecture/4-448Fall-2004/CourseHome/index.htm

I've read several Carrier install instructions that state: "Do not bury lineset". I've also seen other brands with R410A that state none to a max of 3' can be buried.

Every drain needs a trap. If there happens to be a GD on the drain, it still needs a trap. It's fine, if each trap has its own trap arm that connects individually to the vented waste. Most double sinks with 2 traps that I see are incorrect because both traps connect to the same trap arm.

Air Vent makes a "vented drip edge". I think I remember that it provides just under 10" of net free area per linear foot. Have your local chapter ask Air Vent to come out and speak at a meeting. They have a presentation for inspectors that includes principles of attic ventilation.

I don't think that is correct. For this situation, an air admittance valve (NOT a cheater vent) should be at least 4 inches above the horizontal/ fixture drain. Only "Stack-type" air admittance valves need to be 6 inches above the flood level rim of the highest fixture being vented.

I agree, simple is usually best. Are there 2 or more inspectors writing the report? My clients seem bright enough to know what happens when a water heater fails. "The water heater is beyond its average life. I recommend replacement now.

I was listening to a discussion amongst some local HIs that weren't real pleased with the results and dropped it. It's hearsay, but I did hear them say that oftentimes the leads were forwarded too late and the quality of the potential clients wasn't ideal (bottom price seekers).

Older code versions' language was very similar to: "Unused cable or raceway openings in boxes, cabinets, meter socket enclosures, equipment cases or housings shall be effectively closed to afford protection substantially equivalent to the wall of the equipment." At the least, everyone should have a copy of the IRC. It's real handy having it searchable on CD.

This isn't going to help you Chris, but the title/topic reminded me of: http://www.sewerhistory.org/articls.htm and I wanted to share. I read some of the articles listed back when Philadelphia became plagued with sinking homes.

I'll send you my pic to hang on your fridge. I can still wriggle into openings about the dimensions of my clipboard. In fact, I can get into homes through the doggie door.