Bill Kibbel

Why not restore the original exterior coverings and trim? How about some nice reproduction 2-over-2?

I'm sure there is something somewhere that says it's wrong. If those are operable windows flanking the service attachment, the service drop should be at least 3' away.

Charlie is correct. I've probably seen a couple hundred. Old metal roofs are always over solid planks here.

I don't fill sinks and tubs to the rim, but I do "divert" water into the overflows to check for leaks.

Safety glass was gradually being required by individual states from the mid 1960s until it became a national standard in 1977. I went head first through a storm door at full speed when I was a kid. I can still see the evidence that it wasn't safety glass.

"...drywall screws and construction adhesive" is a phrase that you only want to hear from someone hangin' drywall.

No, it's used to dig out the crawlspace access. For example, I recently inspected a farm that breeds dogs, horses, ponies, goats, sheep & birds. Every building and every square inch of the property was inhabited by domestic creatures. Each wall of each building was one side of a pen. I had to dig out 1.5' of poo to get the crawl access covers off. I also had to wear my Wellies all day - indoors and out. It's all searchable in my laptop. Well, I have worn them in converted mills that still have the stream running through. I found the submerged well pump hidden in one. Oh yeah. I carry assorted sized Milk Bones.

- 4 ladders - crawlspace gear - boots, wellies, hip waders - back-up: flashlights, spotlights, moisture meter, multi-tester, temp probes, shirts & shoes - prybars, hammers, levels - measuring wheel & 100' tape - Liquid wrench - shovel - "Off" spray & first aid kit Joe - most buildings I inspect around here have basements and at least 1 crawlspace.

You asked if having a smaller feeder than the max fuse specified was a problem. I guess my point was that it shouldn't be a problem , unless it was less than the min fuse size listed.

Footnotes: a. Equipment, piping and ducts foreign to the electrical installation shall not be placed in the shaded areas extending from the floor to a height of 6 feet above the panelboard enclosure, or to the structural ceiling, whichever is lower. b. The working space shall be clear and unobstructed from the floor to a height of 6.5 feet. c. The working space shall not be designated for storage. d. Panelboards, service equipment and similar enclosures shall not be located in bathrooms, toilet rooms and clothes closets. e. Such work spaces shall be provided with artificial lighting where located indoors.

Most data plates list min. amp fuse/breaker as well.

Attic separation may not have been required if the walls and ceilings of the individual suites have adequate fire resistance.

Since 80% of all vermiculite (before 1990) came from the contaminated Montana mines , It's best to treat it the same as known asbestos containing materials. From the EPA's publication "Asbestos and Vermiculite: Vermiculite insulation should be left undisturbed in your attic. Due to the uncertainties with existing testing techniques, it is best to assume that the material may contain asbestos. You should not store boxes or other items in your attic if retrieving the material will disturb the insulation. Children should not be allowed to play in an attic with open areas of vermiculite insulation. If you plan to remodel or conduct renovations that would disturb the vermiculite, hire professionals trained and certified to handle asbestos to safely remove the material. You should never attempt to remove the insulation yourself. Hire professionals trained and certified to safely remove the material.

I'm rather surprised to find out that inspectors (that I respect) are actually taking samples of vermiculite to be tested for asbestos fibers. I don't recommend anyone even consider having it tested. Read the public info brochures on this topic and you'll find that analyzing vermiculite for asbestos is inaccurate and negative lab results should be interpreted as inconclusive. Are those that grab a sample and send it to lab: employed or subcontracted by the lab and covered by their insurance?(I don't know of a reputable lab that would even accept unqualified samples) taking samples from 3 different locations and keeping the samples separate? taking samples from the bottom, not the top of the filled cavity? informing their clients that a negative lab result does not mean the samples sent do not contain asbestos fibers? informing their clients that a negative result certainly doesn't mean that the vermiculite in their attic does not contain asbestos fibers? In my opinion, testing vermiculite for asbestos has the same value as mold tests from home inspectors

I don't know know of any reason why it wouldn't work for DWV. I see it occasionally used without any issue. The big difference is the color coding. This is intended to reduce the possibility of mistaking installed electrical conduit for plumbing. I know of one incident that the installer of a water softener tapped into gray conduit for the backwash discharge hose.

When I came across this once, it turned out to be growing on old decaying roots under the drive. Did the friend choose the cheapest option for paving?

Welcome aboard Alex. I recommend it. Before I did my first solo inspection, I had all the toys tools and some practical experience in their use. That was back when most folks had no idea what to expect from a home inspection. Now that inspections are pretty well known, I think clients would get nervous if you showed up with a torch and a poker. In addition to the items being discussed at the link posted above, the specialty tools I think are necessary: A moisture meter that can scan & probe A combustible gas detector (to illustrate the gas leak that you could smell anyway) Outlet tester Multi-meter CO meter (w/Bacarach training) Water pressure gauge infrared thermometer w/at least an 30:1 spot ratio Dual K type thermometer Assorted inspection mirrors

We discussed that topic here within the past year or two. One member contacted the top manufacturer of lightning arrestors. They said it was wrong. It should be installed on an additional 2-pole breaker. Another member posted a graphic of how it should be installed:

R602.8 is not describing anything in an attic. You'll want to read through section R317, "Dwelling Unit Separation". It states that a fire resistant wall assembly needs to extend to the underside of the roof sheathing (unless the ceiling assembly below the common attic meets the exception).

Eastern white cedar is an excellent roof covering, that's why it was used on many buildings in the 18th century eastern colonies. I saw the replacement of a white cedar shingled roof, documented to be at least 165 years old, on a Quaker meeting house in NJ. Some well known authentic historic restoration projects have specified white cedar for re-roofing. The reason folks say it shouldn't be on roofs is that they have no experience with the roof grade shingles. Eastern white cedar trees are smaller, thus have more knots and less heartwood than western red. As a result, a large majority of it is milled for "wall grade" installations. Roof grade has no knots and is mostly heartwood. Hand split and re-sawn is the best. A-grade (extra clear) white cedar, installed properly (on spaced battens, with NO felt), will last just as long as any western red. The reason it is specified for that Kennebunkport community is that red cedar will quickly turn a horrible black when exposed to the ocean air. There are a couple suppliers of excellent quality roof grade white cedar in Maine. It's also cheaper than red. There is no difference in the installation specs between white and red so the shake & shingle bureau link is a good resource to review. White cedar is a little bit weaker than red if you decide to walk it.

It's from a table in NFPA 58 (I think). I haven't looked it up since I found this handy illustration: Just right click on it and select "Save Image As".

Whatchu talkin' bout? Everyone else can see it! You've had enough for tonight, Jerry. [:-hypnoti

I can get you a really cheap addition for it.

It's not a disease that spreads and it's not a parasite. Lichen is a mutually dependent marriage of fungus & algae. It reproduces by spores that become airborne and attach to surfaces with the right texture for it to grab hold. It doesn't feed on organic material or even roof coverings. It gets its food from natural airborne dust, rain and primarily, photosynthesis. It grows very, very slowly -- that's why I see it covering much more surface area on very old slate roofs. It only causes very minor damage to materials from its waste, that is slightly acidic, and it retains moisture. It doesn't really want to destroy its host. To get rid of it, bring in some reindeer or caribou, that survive on it in extreme arctic climates. Any treatment that kills algae, fungus or other plants would probably do it in, but physically removing it would probably do more damage to an asphalt roof than leaving it.

Any chance this was a modular or manufactured home that has quick-link splice connectors?