Bill Kibbel

In the roofing forum, there's a topic titled "Titanium underlayment" that also touched on copper vs. terne roofing. Since these are common roofing materials over historic buildings, (and it has little to do with titanium underlayment) I've moved my response to a question over here. Terne, or terneplate is sheet iron (now steel) dipped in a lead-tin allow, first produced in the US in the mid 1820s. It was less expensive to manufacture than its predecessor, tin plated iron. Similar properties, just less shiny. By 1900 terneplate replaced tin completely and steel replaced iron as the base sheet. Although the tin and lead in the plating offer protection to the surface of the iron/steel sheet, it is easily abraded or eroded under normal conditions. It is then necessary to routinely paint the roof for protection against corrosion. It is this regular maintenance that puts it above copper on my life expectancy list. Copper’s characteristic green patina, caused by oxidation, is its protective coating. It doesn’t withstand acidic assaults as well as regularly painted terne. Atmospheric corrosion, most commonly caused by the burning of sulfur containing fuels is, in my experience, the most common cause of copper failure. Tannic acid from red cedar or oak of a wall or dormer, lime from the mortar of a chimney, or even bird droppings can also cause local, concentrated damage. (Chad – birds feeding on moderately acidic blueberries are gonna make your bay roof look like a cheese grater.) I also find a fair amount of sheet copper failing from fatigue, due to expansion/contraction, that I just don’t see as often with terne. You can find many folks that disagree with my opinion. I’ve read several articles and books that claim copper to have the longest life of any metal roofing system. Each one illustrates their point by stating that the oldest copper roof in the US is still on Christ Church in Philadelphia, installed in 1742. The problem with that statement is that primary documentation shows the roof was installed in the 1830s and remained until 1967. There are documented terne roofs that are still in service for well over 150 years. I was recently involved with one, documented to have been installed in 1848 that, after a restoration/preservation treatment, could last longer than our remaining service lives. A liitle blurb about preserving terne roofing: www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/14023.shtml

I wouldn't use something other than felt when felt will do. I would only consider that product if: a) the underlayment was going to be exposed for over a month. b) it's a really steep roof and I'm too cool to work off of roof jacks. I regularly talk people out of using copper, unless it's critical to maintain historic accuracy to replace copper with copper. I would use what was probably used originally - terneplate. It outlasts copper. www.follansbeeroofing.com/products/TerneII.aspx

I've never seen <8" thickness used for foundations. In fact, I've never seen <6" for load bearing walls, except when used as a backing for brick. 4" thickness or less would normally be used for partitions, where heat or sound insulation is desired. I've also seen 3.5" used for dividing flues in very large chimneys. Terry (or anyone else), I would love to have a pic of the stuff failing in my collection. I probably see more of this stuff than the average HI and it's always in good condition.

While that may be true about the technology available at those dates, it doesn't apply to window glass in this country. Cylinder glass was used from 1860 until the very end of the 19th century (and even as late as 1915).

This weekend, I was out looking at a couple big cars from the '70s and got an idea. In addition to the vintage fire truck with the 75' ladder, I'm going to get this: http://tcinspect.com/images/hearse.JPG

I've only heard that once, and not from a HI. The chimney guy, that spoke at my chapter's most recent seminar, stated that it is required. I've never seen it in writing and most of the water heaters installed in old, short basements have very little vertical pipe above the hood.

Geez, this house was just plain hard. Nothing was simple at all. It had been a 1890 single family changed to a duplex. Two boilers, two water heaters, two kitchens, multiple panel boxes, all kinds of crazy movement in: basement floor, garage walls, and get a load of this chimney. It was so high I'd have to have a chopper to get a look down it and I was not about to lean my ladder against it. I don't know if you can see in the pic but it was all kinds of crooked. Download Attachment: chimney.jpg 50.34 KB 6 hours is about right, without report time. Welcome to my world. If your concerned about laddering up to a leaning chimney, you might consider lowering your carbs and get a little more exercise. []

I've been through quite a few. Bushnell's Insta-Focus zoom binoculars (7X35–15X35) has served my needs. They were about a hundred bucks a few years back.

Bob, Got any credible source for the "morphic flow" theory for window glass? I've always read it was folklore. Glass is an amorphous solid. Chad, I don't think there's much crown method glass after 1870.

Caoimhin Connell, who visits here occasionally, has put together some detailed info here: www.forensic-applications.com/meth/recognition.html

It's tough to keep up with all of the product recalls. Many of us disclaim them, but this one is all over the media. I made the table of model & serial numbers printable to carry with me. I also posted it here for my co-workers: www.tcinspect.com/dishwasherrecall.htm

Bob, The content on the home page is stretched too far, so I had to scroll down too far to see stuff. Most folks won't even see the stuff not immediately on their screen. Yeah, the house navigation buttons are way too big.

Steven, If I was looking for a service and saw text that small, I wouldn't read it. I'd click on the next one.

I hate reinspections. Not that I'm not comfortable doing them, but rather I'm annoyed that most things aren't completed. The few repairs that have been attempted are usually just temporary patches and obviously not profesionally repaired. If they were repaired by competent contractors, the buyer surely would have been offerred documentation. Everybody waits to the very last minute (like 30 minutes before settlement) to find out that things aint right. We advise our clients, that want to have the seller make repairs, to be sure to get everything in writing from the contractors hired to do the repairs. We also advise them that we charge 60% of the original inspection fee for reinspection (you should see the original fee).

Are you sure that the first digit in the serial # is a number and not a letter? My notes indicate that International Comfort Products manufactures Airquest, Arcoaire, Comfortmaker, Heil, Keeprite, Kenmore, and Tempstar. The serial number begins with a letter, the next 2 digits are the year, followed by the week. If your serial number began with "I" instead of 1, I would guess it to be manufactured the 51st week of '92, but what do I know. I've seen more ancient coal boilers converted to oil than gas furnaces.

Also hair from a horses tail or silk.

There was a recent thread here that started with a very similar question: https://inspectorsjournal.com/forum/top ... IC_ID=3952 Knowing what I know now (after 8 meters), I would want to "start out" with the Protimeter Surveymaster.

No - that's just the overcurrent/disconnect for the 120v circuits below. The SEC looks like a 4, when comparing it to the dimensions of the other conductors. The major concern I would have is the unfused tap off the main lugs. I hate responding to electrical Qs when there's a Jim Katen around.

They could be manufactured by the Ambler Asbestos Shingle & Sheathing Company (Est. 1905), but I've never heard them referred to as "Ambler shingles". Calling them Transite shingles would be appropriate, but I like to use the name that clearly defines what they are: cement asbestos shingles. I walk a lot of roofs, but not these - and I'm a nimble little guy. Some background: http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/15063.shtml

If you're trying to dissuade them from encapsulating their home in leaky tupperware you can give them some of my thoughts: http://www.oldhouseweb.com/stories/Detailed/15022.shtml

I stop at every slate quarry I see. When I stopped at the Chapman quarry a couple years ago, I was greeted by old farts yelling obscenities and threatening to call the police. I'm joining a field trip with a geologist this summer to Delta, PA (where slate was first discovered in America, the first commercial quarry was established and the "best slate in the world" was quarried). I'll also be visiting a 200 year old church there that has it's original slate roof. This clock is also preserved there. It's 7.5' tall and is made with slate from Delta & Bangor, PA and Vermont.

Guys that are serious about accessing roofs around these parts carry a 28' minimum, 32' for urban jobs. Here's an addition roof that I had to set my 28' on to access the main roof: I've never used a rig to secure the bottom of the ladder, but I always strap the top so it's still there when I get back.

I'd begin to suspect he's a deceitful a/h. That's a safety issue for any age building. There's NO reasonable argument against fixing it. He just confirmed he's a deceitful a/h.

https://inspectorsjournal.com/forum/top ... IC_ID=4239

There's nothing wrong with them. I use one every day for measuring temperatures of surfaces. It can't be used for measuring air temperature.