John Kogel

No appliance was running, such as a dishwasher? No rainwater downspout nearby? Yes, I would include that in the report. Could be a leak, or an underground stream. I got sprayed while under a mobile home one day when a DW went into the rinse cycle. 😬

Read all three pages of this thread and you will know more than you do right now. Howard Pike, Chimo (Cheemo?) Heating services, Coquitlam , BC, hasn't been checking in lately. Good bet you are SOL for a new heat exchanger for a 1975 Airco, but check the date code from Howard's info. The newer owner of the company was Olsen, an they probably stopped stocking parts for the older models. I don't know this, just a guess. Rust on the outer surface doesn't mean the heat exchanger is leaking. Was there an actual gas leak, or flames escaping?

Check with the local authority as to whether this work you are doing requires an electrical inspection. There is more to it if that is the case. If you need to bring the wiring up to the modern code requirements, then outlets either side of the sink need GFCI protection. Also it is a safety improvement. The best way to do this is to convert the 15 amp split duplex outlets to single 20 amp GFCI outlets. Yes, new wiring needs to be installed in the walls from the panel, but it frees up space in the panel. Also the new rules in your area may allow adjacent outlets on the same breaker - then one single 20 amp breaker supplies both outlets and a couple of the others.

Try to contact: Howard Pike Location: Coquitlam, BC Canada Bio: Chimo Furnace owner since 1988 Airco /Olsen Product Engineer 1979 to 1988 BCIT Grad (Mech Tech) in 1979 CSB Ministries Rep since 2001 Company Information: Chimo Fur... You can search here for posts by Howard, but it has been several years now since he was active on this forum.

Any chance that roof becomes a hockey rink in the winter? 😬

Hello John. Maybe you need less gas pressure with more air to get the yellow flame.

Thanks, Marc, but I understood there are 3 elements. It's not clear what the rating of each is. I'd be concerned if the total load is increased by 6 amps. Also that age of house means a possibility of Al wiring, so an electrician should have a look.

Bigger elements means a bigger draw on the electrical feeder from your main panel. Instead of worrying about the old elements that still work, have an electrician check the wiring in your house, including that feeder to the tank. If you have to replace you could go down to two elements and reduce the draw on your system. It will still heat the water, just a little slower.

Maybe Howard is still around. Go back to page 1, read what he says and try his contact info. $500 for a blower that fits versus $200 for one that probably doesn't fit and if made to fit, will leak or won't do the job. Just pay the money and get the right one. I know money is tight for most home owners but there are some places where cutting corners doesn't pay. I think 1082 is a 1982 unit, so it's had a good run and is still worth a repair.

Right, format C : and get out the floppy discs.😃

Hello Darren. Those look like older shingles but heavy duty, probably fiberglass reinforced? I wouldn't have much to say about that moss and lichen, as it is common here. Sometimes people get moss removed and end up with damaged shingles from scrapers and power washers. Detergent or Sodium Bicarb (PSB ?) washing soda will kill that moss, but makes the roof slippery. A zinc strip sometimes works. Are you getting negative feedback about your report?

You seem to be asking - Is charred wood acceptable? and the answer is - it depends on the extent of the damage. Have a builder or a home inspector take a look and get an opinion. For something in writing, you may need a structural engineer's report. You can also consult the local authority where you apply for the permit. .Sometimes if you ask the authority what he thinks you should do, you get the answer you need to get a final approval. That approval adds value when you go to sell.

Foreign buyers leave it up to their realtor on this side to take care of the inspection, and sometimes they don't even come to see the house. Even so, the best advice is to refuse to inspect until the contract is read and signed by the buyer. It is even more important to get that signature when you don't meet the buyers face-to-face.

It does make a bit of sense, but I think the correct way to install those doors is directly on the slab. You step over the bottom runner only. It is metal or vinyl-coated metal and has a flange. Better not have wood there because the door frame will have condensation under it. There is a rubber gasket material with glue on one side that can be laid on the concrete and down the weather side to keep the edge dry. Then the wood sills if any are only under the pillar sections between the sliding doors. They can be attached with heavy duty glue and nails. To install the sill plate, I use a masonry bit to drill thru the plate into the concrete. Then drill as deep as possible until you hit a hard rock. Cut the nail shorter to fit the depth of the drilled hole and use construction glue, very strong. Re; the slope, it looks like the ground is humped up a bit on the right, maybe the picture is distorted. If your gutter looks straight to you now you might just leave the slope. The key will be to have all horizontal lines looking straight when you're done. If the slab drops more than in inch or so, you could pour a small curb on top of the slab to support a straight wall. In that case you will also need to jack up the corner of the roof to get everything level. Not hard, just another day.

This will give you a chance to rewire that ceiling light too.😁 Does that space get hot in the summer? Looks like there is some shade, and is the ceiling insulated? just curious. Our patio area has an open metal roof, gets uncomfortably hot for 2 months a year.

The vinyl expands and contracts with temp changes. It works fine cut short with a loose fit in the tracks in a soffit area, but long lengths will buckle in the heat, even worse if you tack it up with fasteners. Metal is more rigid, so long lengths might be ok if you allow for expansion.

Since that recent airport shutdown due to (criminally stupid) goofs flying drones around the airport, you bet, there will be crackdowns. She who knows best brought home a bag of Romaine lettuce yesterday, we had salad, and I am happy to report, still alive. California has water issues, lettuce is 95% water, much of the Romaine is grown across the road from an enormous feedlot.

I have taken plenty of pics with a pole camera. Quick and easy compared to flying a drone in a crowded subdivision with power poles and trees everywhere. I admit drones have come a long way and we see drone film footage every day now in documentaries and TV shows. But as Jim says, why mess about with flying, retrieving, and editing when you can get close enough with a real ladder and a paint pole?

You're welcome to visit us anytime, Jim, but I found a US website here: https://www.idealproductusa.com/Catalog-of-products/Jaws-Ladders.shtml The knuckle joint locks into position with tapered teeth and two big wingnuts hold the jaws tight. The picture show a gal with her ladder angle way off. She could use a hand. 😎

Denny, wear a helmet. The rest of you Werners users, get a Jaws ladder. Seriously, I bought a Jaws from a retiring inspector, and it will never over extend like that. Also, the top section can easily be removed, making the ladder light and strong.

In this climate, Rooftop Duck Pond. 😃

Doh! Those things are bound to leak as well, or just get left open in a rainstorm. Could be rigged to close itself with motors and sensors. Then again, why not build a permanent weathertight dormer?

Yes, good article and good responses. When I was actively inspecting, I took 80 to 180 pics per house. They are filed by date, simple. A few times, I had to pull up pics to back up my report. Replaying the shots in sequence is like reliving the inspection, and it refreshes the memory. I had a guy try, and fail, to lay a claim 2 full years after the inspection. He saw 50 pics in the report, but I had saved 160, showing walls and ceilings in all the rooms, water flowing out of faucets, etc. One thing I recommend is a notepad or just a scrap of paper and a short pencil stub in a pocket. Write down the significant deficiencies as you find them. Sometimes when writing the report, the picture you took earlier can get lost in the shuffle. A glance at the note while writing takes a couple of seconds, a quick check of the report before sending.

That white or green fuzz is similar to what will grow on an old orange peel. It can be wiped off with a cloth. When it dies, it turns black. Fix the caulking around the edges of your tub. I think I see stains in the plywood where water is leaking under the floor tiles or vinyl.

Did you go back to the original outlet that was running the pump for a year? Make sure the cord and plug are not damaged from being shifted around . The motor ran normally with neutral on the switch because it is 120 volt alternating current, not really 'polarized'.