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Roof Maxx is basically a soy-based shingle “rejuvenator,” not an acrylic coating. The idea is it soaks into aging asphalt shingles and restores flexibility, which can help on roofs that are still structurally sound, but it’s not a fix for bad flashing, leaks, nail pops, lifted tabs, or heavy granule loss. So IMO: not total snake oil, but definitely not a miracle either best case it may buy time on a borderline roof, worst case it delays the inevitable.

Shingles shouldn’t directly touch stucco there should be proper flashing and a gap to allow water to shed and avoid wicking into the wall. If the roofer installed flashing behind the stucco and under the shingles, that may be okay, but check the shingle manufacturer’s installation guide. Some require a small clearance from vertical surfaces. It’s worth confirming otherwise, you could see water intrusion or premature shingle wear later.

Filtering the cold inlet and flushing the heater makes sense for long-term maintenance. But in a case like he described where the dip tube already failed and debris is moving through the system wouldn’t a temporary filter on the hot outlet help catch the remaining particles before they reach fixtures and appliances? Just wondering if running one for a short period after repair could save a lot of aerator cleaning while the system clears out.

David, I agree with your point about proper matching and airflow being key, as long as the air handler and outdoor unit are correctly paired and the duct design isn’t excessive or restrictive, the temp split should generally fall within expected ranges.

Using multiple mini-split style outdoor units with conventional air handlers can still deliver good temperature differentials similar to traditional big-box systems if properly sized, and consistent airflow is maintained. The Frigidaire FFPA1422U1 use and care manual highlights tips for efficient operation, maintenance, and troubleshooting to ensure optimal cooling and energy efficiency, which applies well when integrating new configurations like this, keeping systems balanced and performing as expected.

It sounds like they’re using mini-split-style heat pumps with traditional ducts, so the temperature differential might be slightly lower than conventional large outdoor units, but efficiency can still be comparable depending on system design.

It sounds like you’ll likely need properly sized Category 1 (B-vent or C-vent) metal flue pipe, sized to handle both the 100,000 BTU fan-assisted furnace and the 40,000 BTU water heater with minimal bends, and installed per NFPA 211 clearances, but confirming exact diameters and configuration with an HVAC professional or local code inspector is essential before final purchase.

Nice topic!

Do you know if the air handlers are properly matched to the mini-split outdoor units’ capacity? Generally, as long as the system is correctly sized and balanced, the temperature differential should be similar, but mismatched components or long duct runs can reduce efficiency and airflow.

Do you know if the air handlers are properly matched to the mini-split outdoor units’ capacity? Generally, as long as the system is correctly sized and balanced, the temperature differential should be similar, but mismatched components or long duct runs can reduce efficiency and airflow.

Thanks. CNewhouse.

https://www.hvacquick.com/products/residential/Bathroom-Ventilation/Discharge-Caps/Seiho-SFX-Series-Aluminum-Louvered-Vent-Caps-With-Hoods?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=19098719225&gbraid=0AAAAAD_v8vP1Pyw2OW4s8t6adaMxD4UVY&gclid=CjwKCAiAkbbMBhB2EiwANbxtbQV3WjiYwl0U91VblvVd8CP6eUL5UHIIRUTnqfrYxJ41CxBbSSSQqhoC68wQAvD_BwE I've seen those a few times. Typically for an exhaust fan.

Has anyone seen this type of vent? I hope its not for the furnaces.

It’s better to filter the cold water inlet and flush the heater regularly rather than putting a trap on the output.

Hello Jason. I was thinking about the same topic couple days ago. So far I have come to the conclusion that there is couple of ways we could go about it and so far it is better to stay off and distant as much as we can if possible. Here is my experience: A techy customer got his report and put it into one of those services and He got numbers in 3 ranges: low , mid and high. He even called couple of contractors to compare prices and said that AI was off for couple hundred dollars. His deal felt thru because the sellers did not accept his repair request, his numbers were to high even in the low range. As for realtors I would not mind too much about them , trying to get numbers without killing the deal for themselves… We all know the low balls they try to pull off when they know the house committed suicide by itself. Another customer did the same thing after the repair request and negotiations and all that [ and repairs performed by Joe hold my beer ] , and He was short for a couple thousands on a defect that needed more repairs that the offered by sellers… Try to copy and paste a random summary of an inspection you have performed and ask google Gemini to give you an explanation followed by numbers and check in your local market if the numbers are off or not… I tried one summary and I got the impression that google numbers were about right; but I would not offer that option to a client , it is better that they do their own research; that way we are not the ones in the middle trying to inflate their expectations.

For your 10x15 room with 2x8 trusses and 2x4 roof deck, use rigid foam board insulation between the trusses for excellent thermal performance. Add spray foam or fiberglass batts to fill gaps and improve air sealing. A vapor barrier is important to prevent moisture buildup before installing the ceiling. This method ensures energy efficiency and long-lasting comfort. Good luck with your renovation! - Fence and Deck Connection

That's beautiful.

That's what they tell me. Boats and Corvettes seem to fair OK. It's recoatable, but not really easy to recoat. It requires thorough sanding followed by cleaning with acetone. (I already recoated it once becaue it was the wrong color) I figured the worst thing that can happen is it fails miserably. If that's the case, it'll make an excellent substrate for something else.

And the gel coat is stable in UV light?

HI, I could use some expert opinions. I need to replace my heating ducts due to age and corrosion to the point of giant holes in them. They existed for 50 years concealed behind a false wall in my basement. The furnace was replaced in the mid nineties but it appears they just connected to the existing flue. When I tore the wall out for remodeling, I discovered the corroded flue pipe. I'm looking at a 100,000 BTU Category 1 fan assisted Rheem furnace. The furnace outlet is 3 inches, which expands immediately to 4", does a dual 45 bend around the side of the furnace, into a 90, then expands into a 6" pipe, where you can already see signs of corrosion. It then does a 3 foot run, a 90 degree bend, then a 4 foot run to another 90 degree bend into to what was then an unlined masonry flue. The chimney flue rises around 20 feet. This is a single story ranch. The run past the 90 where it was behind the false wall is heavily corroded with numerous holes. It looks like heavy guage aluminum. Parallel to the furnace flue is a 40,000 BTU natural drafted water heater with a 3" flue that runs in a straight line 9 feet, then turns a 90 into the flue. I've just had chimney work done and they installed a 6" stainless steel flue liner terminating in a wye at the base of the flue. I now need to install replacement ductwork to attach to it. To summarize, I need to vent: a 100,000 BTU Category 1 fan assisted Rheem furnace, which rises 3 feet 9 inches in a 9 foot run to the flue, with two 45s and a 90 bend. a 40,000 BTU natural draft water heater, which rises 2 feet in a 10 foot run, than a 90 into the flue. My "in stock" furnace flue options at Lowes or Home Depot are. 4" B vent 4", 5" or 6" C vent. I'm not against special ordering or going to an HVAC warehouse, if I know what it is I need. the surrounding material is concrete block on the walls, with wood floor joists and a rim joist overhead. I plan to enclose the vents in a finished bulkhead, which will be removable for inspection and service. I do not have 6" clearance to the joists. I could install a firestop on the joists if that's acceptable. I'm confident I can do the physical installation, but two or 3 days of reading through the NFPA code, with help translating from ChatGPT, and I'm not convinced I'm understanding any better what the code requirements for the flue pipe size are. The chimney guys were nice enough to temporarily connect the existing ductwork to the new wye, but I need to get this replaced asap.

Is radon really a concern there in the Phillipines?

Here’s a quick tip for anyone buying or selling a home—don’t skip radon testing during your home inspection. Many people overlook it, but radon is a silent health risk that can be found in any home, old or new. Adding a radon test to your inspection is simple and affordable, and it can help you avoid major problems later. If high levels are found, you can negotiate repairs or install a mitigation system before moving in. It’s a small step that gives you big peace of mind knowing your new home is safe. Has anyone here added radon testing to their inspection before?

Good points all. Thank you.

I did soldered seam terne on my balcony. It was *very* time-consuming. I considered standing seam metal, but what you can't see in the photos is a flare at the bottom of the slopes. I thought it would look cool, and it does, but you can't see it from the ground. If you visit, be sure to check out the cool flare from the upstairs bathroom window. I was afraid the standing seam would not accommodate the change of slope.