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RK52

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Everything posted by RK52

  1. Yeah, that seems about right. Ok. On the subject of cost. A Parrot Anafi would do the job very well for about $650 on sale. Autel EVO for around $850. Both are stable in winds, and the EVO will fly in light rains. These are certainly options. Taking a closeup shot series at 12MP or higher will reveal plenty when you can’t, or won’t, go on a roof. Safety comes before any inspection report. You get no awards for risking your life.
  2. I’m thinking it is the same as near the base of the wall where flashing might be used. This page shows a through-wall flashing details adjacent to floor joists. By the text, it looks to me that the flashing method is to be repeated at each floor level. Figs. 2, 5 & 8 present examples that may apply.
  3. Yeah. FAA Regs. Part 107 is the section regulating the use of drones (they call them sUAVs) for commercial purposes. An operator needs FAA 107 certification if he flies commercially. If you are paid to fly, you need the cert. I’m wondering if “paid to fly” means primary purpose, or added service. If it’n ancillary, such as when using a screwdriver or camera, perhaps not. Clients pay for the report, but the report includes photos... i think it may be be free of restrictions above the regular registration, since it’s not a service advertised for sale. But I could be wrong.
  4. I believe this does not require flashing, for two reasons. First, is appears to slope well away from the wall. Second, and I’m guessing here, this is either exterior to the brick face, or aligned with it at the interior surface, like one long brick. But looking at the line above it, I can’t see brick cut so thin as that. Exterior to the wall, sloped, I’m not sure it’s a problem.
  5. If an inspector uses a drone as just another tool, and not a billable add on, is he still required to go Part 107?
  6. Not sure if this helps, but figure 1 references this, and the article itself discusses aesthetic considerations of second and higher floor flashings. Detailed drawings on page 2 of 3. https://www.constructionspecifier.com/aesthetics-versus-function-resolving-issues-with-exposed-drip-edge-flashing-on-masonry-walls/
  7. Musta took some time to lay them out so precisely. Pretty cool.
  8. According to this, it's a magnetic contact starter. Yup. https://www.geindustrial.com/catalog/controlcatalog/13_CC.pdf
  9. That was a good read. Thank you for posting it.
  10. RMR is a mold killer that goes on clear, and destroys the nasties, leaving the wood looking clean. At least that's what the video shows. The other treatments we were told about at a HI chapter meeting leaves the wood visible, so its effect on the mold can be seen. Yeah. Looks like paint, to me, though I don't know why they would use so little as to leave the underlying problem visible.
  11. Seems like the 15" space called out might be narrowed by that step.
  12. Sorry, Les. It hurts to lose our friends. Good to know we could make friends, though. I just read hihs obituary. Was he here on this board?
  13. Seems to me the rain water deflection provided by the hood isn't going to work too well at the horizontal....
  14. The Maleficent Seven
  15. Hi Jake, I'm just getting started in California. I joined this site because is has the best combination of information, ethical considerations, advise and humor of all the forums I searched out. I get in here semi-regularly and catch up on threads that provide interesting info. I joined CREIA on the advise of this board. It was a great move. The chapter I aligned with, Delta, is only 13 members, but the quality of individuals there is great. The Standard of Procedures, and the Ethics code enforcement go a long way toward ruling out undesirables. The information and training are very helpful. I can't stress it too much, that signing up with CREIA and, at a minimum, attending the monthly chapter meetings is the right move in California. Since the state is unregulated, it also makes sense to align with an association that holds you accountable for certain performance and ethics standards, if you are to have any credibility. The entrance requirements for CREIA certification can not be shortcut or cheated. If you get to certified, you are doing okay. My schooling was with PHII, online. While the materials and presentation need work, the information I received is lining up with the NHIE study book (700 pages...). The NHIE book is actually validating what I found at PHII. Additinally, PHII is affordable, and approved by CREIA. CREAI requires that you pass the NHIE before you can be cert'd. And the PHII class delivers you 90 CEs toward the requirements by CREIA. There may be some changes in the legislative world in CA over the next two years. You could stay on top of things by reading this board and the one over at CREIA.
  16. I wonder if that came back from a front line somewhere....
  17. The two prominent ridge /bulges are 9 rows apart. If you look to the right, another 9 rows down you can see a third ridge. Pretty uniform, though nothing 9 rows up. I would expect to see quite a bit more perpendicular ridges too, if the OSB was soaked. Else all of it soaked along the long dimensions and not the short. The ridges are smack in the middle line of the shingles, too.... I'm guessing something *weird* in the installation process, and not the weather.
  18. I have just over 1M miles under my belt. Serviced IT equipment for 29 years, in the field. Making 3-8 stops in a day get you into all kinds of situations. Driving can be a PITA.
  19. You obviously took effort in framing this photo study. Pretty derned cool.
  20. We had one for a Moonraker directional beam CB antenna. Lil bigger, but same kind of beast. Yeah, I remember the Anthem playing start and end of day. Kinda miss that....
  21. Sounds like my old one. 90 to an riser... 9 feet, then 21 feet to the exterior. Moisture and lint built up, rotted a connection, and damaged a ceiling. I replaced it with a 90 down 2 feet, and 15 feet out... Towels took 70 minutes to dry previously. Now, 30.
  22. Well, it looks to me to be a perimeter wall, being as there is a sliding door and an exterior deck there. Deck is parallel to the exterior, so I'm wondering if that discrepancy is noticeable from the outside? Guessing the deck is square, but appearing canted. Grew up with my dad, going through plans and buildings. Had a ridge beam on a vaulted ceiling installed with the top edge where the bottom should have been. Even WITH the blueprints, the GC told him he was wrong. Had to actually get him to climb a ladder, sight along the beam to the existing roof (room addition...), and explain that "minor" slope issue....
  23. That was my first thought. The roofer had to have conniptions if he was installing premade trusses. I wonder if he has a lil extra free overhang somewhere. I'm pretty sure it's a feature.....
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