Erby

I did find this for a model # decoder for this unit. Still seems like 3 ton to me. Click to Enlarge 14.08 KB

So you're telling me the divide by 12 thingy doesn't work anymore, i.e, the 036 in the model #?

Somehow it doesn't seem like enough! 3,900 square feet on three floors. 3 ton unit. Your thoughts? Click to Enlarge 54.34 KB Click to Enlarge 72.12 KB Click to Enlarge 52.22 KB In case you can't read it the Bryant model # is: 213CNA036-B

Rain suit and rubber boots!

Yes, you can see them pretty well. Google "Bed Bug Size" then click on images for some comparisons.

As you noted, the cracks are all on the double laminate section. Seen it before quite a few times several years ago, just can't remember the name.

Any ideas what would cause this, other than a loose connection. There was a 200 Amp Main panel and this 100 Amp Main Panel, both fed direct from the meter. The only thing the 100 amp panel served was the heat pump. Click to Enlarge 42.25 KB Click to Enlarge 66.21 KB

A whole bunch of them all cracked up! Anybody remember the particular name of these? Click to Enlarge 78.95 KB Click to Enlarge 75.7 KB Click to Enlarge 110.52 KB Click to Enlarge 119.63 KB

Welcome Tom. Looks good Chad! 14 cents a Kilowatt Hour? Holy Cow! We're about half of that here in Kentucky.

Well Marc, while I disagree with your efforts, I note that you speak very well for your hearing impairment.

So Roger, which treatment DOES work?

Sure sounds that way. Seems like a lot of people took a lot of action for not having any details of the particular incident. The lawyers and mold labs will love it anyways.

That's been my experience. I regularly pull the meter cover to observe the water flow indicator to see if the main line is leaking between the house and meter.

Mark, I think we've all pretty much settled on it being original to the house, built in 1963. Other issues drove the buyer away though, so it's a cancelled contract.

Why, it's mortar, of course. What the heck else would you use at such an intersection of roof shingles to brick. Well, besides proper counter flashing of course.

Gotta Love It! when that happens. Just brings a smile to my face.

Best I can come up is below from the Brick Industry Association. He's got two elements right. There's brick and there are shingles. I couldn't get into the knee wall attic area to see if the rafters were tripled. The other stuff, that should be visible, isn't. =============== There are several locations where the brick meets the roof shingles. There is no visible step or counter or through wall flashing where the brick meets the shingles of the roof. There are no weep holes at the base of the brick. The junction between the shingles and the brick is covered with mortar. The seller/builder says that "through wall flashing" was installed, then step flashing installed with the shingles and then the brick was applied. Through wall flashing is supposed to go "through" the wall and be visible on the outside, with weep holes above the counter flashing over the step flashing. See diagram from the Brick Industry Association regarding this type of junction between brick and roof. (Picture 2) I couldn't get into the attic section under any of these areas to see what framing was done to support the brick but tripled rafters are the norm. In addition, there is no kickout flashing at the bottom of the roof slope to force water into the gutters. (Picture 3) Water that doesn't get "kicked" into the gutter runs down the wall and can penetrate behind the brick. Question 1: Where does the water go that gets behind the brick in the form of vapor. I don't see a way for it to get out of the wall. Question 2: When it comes time to replace the shingles, and that time will come, how is your roofer going to get the shingles out from under the brick and new shingles and step flashing UNDER the brick? This is a problem with no easy solution. Consult a brick mason and roofer and follow their advice. Be aware it might be costly. Picture 2 Click to Enlarge 46.92 KB Picture 3 Click to Enlarge 33.27 KB ============================ Guess we'll see how loud they scream. The buyer is a mechanical engineer with a good handle of knowledge. I won't go into how the deck is attached to the brick veneer with tapcons.

Anybody ever seen it done that way. No visible flashing where the brick wall meets the shingle roof but builder swears they've installed through wall flashing between wall and roof, then step flashing under the shingles, then put the brick on over all of that. Click to Enlarge 63.96 KB

Given the house was built in 1963, I'd tend to agree with Bill and Kurt and Jim. Didn't know about the ANSI dates starting in 1976. You can learn so dang much here. A wonderful resource to have in the back pocket!

You have the whole data plate, no ANSI Date. Yes, pilot light. 50 plus on age of home.

Anyone want to take a stab at it. I'm guessing 83 From the furnace age chart: Click to Enlarge 17.1 KB Click to Enlarge 36.91 KB Click to Enlarge 66.75 KB

I understand that Les, my crystal ball predictions still hold true.

Crap, now you got me starting to want one again!

My crystal ball says: 1. There will be a lot of lawyers suing home inspectors down there for not finding mold growth if this thing passes. 2. The "Mold is Gold" crowd will love it and try to spread it to other states.

I'd be the mold labs are pushing for it. Follow the money.