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Never mind, Jim. I found it. However IBC 708.4 (3) applies as there is a sprinkler system installed throughout the attic.

Where do you get the < 3000 SF Area from, Jim Baird.

I hope we don't read about you in the newspapers!

It's nice to be able to do that, Chad. Nice, but rare!

Commercial office building with six bathrooms and one kitchen as moisture sources. I guess it seems to be working okay. It's location within a complex has some architectural requirements for matching other buildings. They're all done the same way. Click to Enlarge 73.04 KB

7500 square foot building with soffit vents around the exterior and one large cupola in the center of the roof with vents on the side of the cupola. I'm thinking ridge vents would be a better solution. Your thoughts? Overview 64.38 KB Cupola 42.69 KB Attic opening into cupola 43.5 KB

Ah, Jimmy. You got me on semantics!

I agree. Educate them. It's not a mandated part of an operational fireplace. It's an option. I certainly don't list every missing option on every appliance. It is NOT a a heating, electrical or safety issue. The fireplace operates just fine without it. Doesn't put out as much heat but that's an optional addition. Write the insulting one first, get it out of your system, then edit it to remove the insulting part but leave the education part.

What works for some, doesn't work for others. I get friends of friends contacting me through facebook to do inspections for them. Go figure. Didn't know about the review thingy but fake reviews suck in general. I don't pay for any online advertising, well, except for my website.

Didn't y'all ever watch Shelby the Swamp Logger on the Discovery Channel?

Dang framer put that joist right in the way. Well, he can come back and fix it after I'm done plumbing it. Click to Enlarge 35.59 KB I guess the plumber hadn't heard about sawzalls yet!

Perhaps it was beneath the dignity of the trade to bend over and look under the sink and stove!

Yeah, but Tim: Realtor swears a licensed electrician connected the wiring for the garbage disposal and cook top in this one. Click to Enlarge 36.02 KB Click to Enlarge 39.26 KB Click to Enlarge 29.1 KB

Well, Hell, Nolan. I hadn't thought of that. Makes perfect sense now!

Gotta be a homeowner. Don't think any self respecting electrician would wire up an outdoor heating and cooling unit with one leg to a 15 amp single pole (center) and the other leg to a 20 amp single pole (right). Click to Enlarge 76.62 KB Click to Enlarge 52.27 KB

Capacitor discharge, OUCH!

Yes, as long as the rafter ties are there, it's not a problem.

And the island to see if it's going to tip over. This, from the ASHI article was rather humorous: "retard cabinet departure". I would have probably said "Keep it from falling".

What kind of mechanic doesn't have a refrigerator in his garage for the beer? [:-monkeyd[:-monkeyd[:-monkeyd

My daddy said a smart man learns from his experience, but a truly smart man learns from other peoples experience. This was one of those "truly smart" things. Though I admit, occasionally, I still have to hit my thumb with a hammer to make sure it hurts.

Not a problem. I wouldn't have put it there if I minded. See that a lot around here in newer houses. When I get flack about it, I just toss them to the manufacturers. Here's an example from Merillat http://www.merillat.com/pdf/customer-su ... -Guide.pdf Click to Enlarge 54.21 KB

Doesn't matter. It's a cone head, not a pan head. Manufacturer's don't like cone heads that penetrate the wood. They typically call for a larger pan head screw. ====== The upper kitchen cabinets appear to be fastened to the wall with drywall screws. Dry wall screws do not have sufficient shear (sideways) strength, especially after the cabinets are loaded down with dishes, etc. The Kitchen Cabinet Manufacturer's Association www.kcma.org typically requires the use of specific fasteners to hold these cabinets on the wall. The cabinet manufacturer for these cabinets can better explain the proper fasteners to use for these cabinets. Ask to see the cabinet installation instructions that are shipped with all cabinets. Most manufacturers have this or a similar warning in their installation instructions: CAUTION: Do not use nails to install base or wall cabinets. Use the recommended screws. Using nails or drywall screws will void the product warranty and may allow cabinets to fall from the wall. Repair / replace as needed to comply with the manufacturer's instructions. I note that I've never seen any cabinets mounted like this fail, but then, I've never seen a dryer fire either and there's 15,000 of those every year. ==================== Did you get a shot of the manufacturer's sticker on the door under the kitchen sink or bathroom sink. The code at the bottom of that sticker will show you who the manufacturer is and they can put a kabosh on it just from your picture. http://kcma.org/Homeowners/code_search Click to Enlarge 12 KB

If one is good, two MUST be better!

Bad insulation in the wall and none on the metal duct connector can cause issues, huh. Click to Enlarge 26.24 KB

I'll see your corrosion and raise it to melting. Click to Enlarge 55.48 KB