inspector57

Definitely older than the 80's. I'm betting original to the house, 60's or 70's.

Time to take the buyer aside and tell them the truth. Have them bring in a real expert to set the record straight. They might not believe you but at least you tried.

Be careful. What you think you are requiring can be interpreted in vastly different ways by lawyers and the general public (Jury) who are fed a steady diet of hype and hyperbole. I can see reports having general CYA verbiage that all homes have mold and to have a mold "expert" follow up. Just what the mold inspectors want. It becomes very easy to spend other peoples money just so they don't take yours. The bottom line is a negative for the consumer and no one wins except the mold is gold crowd.

????????

You just have to be more gentle and patient.

I disagree. That looks like overheating of that connection and it should be replaced. The insulation is cooked because the connection is bad with overheating back several inches onto the cable from the power company. Simple repair that should be done for free and it will continue to work until it doesn't but it still should be repaired. I'll be the lights flicker during high loads or winds.

Agreed Marc, Maybe the reversing valve is not transitioning. In any case, assuming your readings and description are accurate, it needs repair.

Here is mine A little long but maybe they will read it.

The ground source units were very popular and the gold standard about 25 years ago. The last house I built my a/c guy told me to save my money since the gains in air source unit efficiencies made payback a loosing proposition. Double or quadruple the up front cost and calculate the payback from 10 or 25% utility savings and the equipment will be worn out before getting the ROI. Great idea but there is no need for it in my area. If you are in the extreme northern climates the numbers may work. Scott, There are a multitude of different variations but generally you have a water pump and water cooled condenser/evaporator that takes the place of the outdoor units coil and fan.

I agree, PITA but the excess on the surface could likely be cleaned. The tool work on the repointed mortar joints is another story though. I don't think it will ever look right again without mucho worko!

There must be fire-stopping at the ceiling/floor level of each story. I too cannot figure out what I am looking at in the second pic. but if it is the ceiling that is missing, then you have a problem.

Is it common for the other members here to estimate a remaining life? I stay away from placing any number of remaining years life, age, etc. during my reports. If a roof is toast or showing signs of age then I report as such, just no estimated life. Roofs hear don't appear to last nearly as long as what I have seen others report from the more northern areas with the roofs here generally doing well to last to the end of the stated warranty. A cheap 3 tab shingle gets about 15 years, an architectural laminate style getting about 30 if your lucky. Of course with frequent hail and wind lots of roofs never get to the end of normal life before getting replaced.

Blow it out your ear! You ask for advice then berate the people that offer you what you asked for.

If the outlet is changed it must also meet the rules in 406.12 in the 2011 NEC. That says that it must be a tamper proof receptacle as well How long does the exemption for old stock non tamper resistant outlets last? Seems there was an allowance of some sort when this rule came out.

Look at Home Inspection Pro. There is a mac version that Scott described or use with a Android or Windows tablet to be able to finish on site. I use the Ipad mini but the on board camera is too slow for my use since I take MANY photos.

Slap the siding contractor upside the head, nip off the nails so that they're flush with the back of the panel, and call it a day. Agreed

ERV First find out about your indoor humidity levels with accurate measurements over several days, not just guessing. If the levels are high, then a heat recovery ventilator and/or dehumidifier. In any case, modern thermopane windows will reduce or eliminate the window condensation but I'm more concerned about what is happening that you can't see (inside the walls) than the condensation on windows.

I had one where I could not find the crawl space access. I too offered to come back when they provided access. When I came back they had removed the electronics and uncovered the hatch where they had converted a closet to hold their TV and electronic gear and built in the cabinetry. Just as well though because "I" was not moving their expensive electronics. How can we keep finding new stuff like this? you would think after almost 20 years I would have seen it all but there are always surprises.

Yes, it is possible to damage it but you likely would have heard it and hit the deck if it was slugging liquid. If you heard no unusual sounds then don't sweat it.

I have never seen in-slab ductwork that is worth trying to save, it is always full of nasties! Ditto - not many in my area but most are full of water. I'm not an alarmist about radon but I'm guessing this would almost guarantee high levels if it is a problem area.

Same requirements as far as I know. The manufacturers installation instructions are for the valve, not the heater and are almost identical to the code requirements if I am not mistaken. A trapped line can still be blocked by freezing water and the valve can still be fouled by water sitting against the face.

You have a battery operated wood burning fireplace?[:-bigeyes Seriously, a little more background might be helpful.

Ditto what Marc said. Concerning weep holes, from the shadow line it appears that the area above the window is pretty well protected by the roof overhang which would all but negate the need for weeps above the window, most of your water entry will take place at the window so the weeps need to be functioning at the area below the window.

Check out the shears as recommended by James Hardi. It virtually eliminates the dust and will do the vast majority of your cuts.

I would join the others who suggested asking the power company to get involved and consider the loss of neutral / ground at the other nearby neighbors or transformer.