inspector57

Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on the issue. I would add though to NOT put foam on the perimeter wall if you are in a medium to high termite activity area. I suspect you are in a medium termite area going by your location but that is just a guess. It is great stuff but it creates termite hiding places. If you have the typical sheet metal termite/rodent shield then you could start above that with foam. Keep the vapor barrier below the metal cap.

Cheap, Weed killer applied full strength into holes drilled into the face of the stump. Not legal and takes years. Faster, an ax and shovel. Comes with lots of blisters. My method. Hire a guy with a stump grinder!

Sometimes it is not the amount of water but the drying ability of the wall assembly. BSC has some good information in that regard. I just saw a well known TV guy in Canada do a complete reclading of an entire 8 year old home due to rotting OSB all the while slamming the installers lack of attention to water proofing details. My take was that the primary problem was trapping water between two vapor barriers with little chance for water or water vapor to get out of the wall. Wall cladding will never be 100% water proof and if there is no provision to let the wall dry either to the inside or the outside you are asking for problem. Regarding your roof hole, my guess is it would take years for rot to set in if that hole was over a well ventilated attic. No ventilation and my guess is that a few months would see major deterioration.

That PVC drain pipe at the furnace is combustible. Basically if it is not listed as a NONcombustible then it likely is combustible and cannot be in the clearance area. The carpet is combustible no matter what the base is made of.

The rectangular wire "box" goes around the breaker handle when it is in the off position and the personal lockout lock of the worker goes into the loops to keep someone from energizing the circuit being serviced.

The sixties had what you wanted in light trucks. Chevy, Dodge, and Ford all had their versions to compete with each other and VW. Even the VW did not survive in the truck version, just the van. America spoke with their wallets and did not like the cab forward versions enough to keep them alive. Having driven some of them, I can't disagree with the death even though some of them are cool as a novelty, just not as a daily driver. I drive a F150 with 4 doors and get 17-24 mpg. While not the handiest to park in tight spaces it is a good multipurpose vehicle than will tow and haul anything I need and has seating for 6 big adults. But then I'm in Texas and good highway driveablity is more important that parking in tight spaces.

Mechanical things fail, your on your own unless there was a defect in the way it was installed and likely even then. Test the switch to see if it shuts the unit down when it is tripped but realize NOTHING is 100% guaranteed to prevent damage from mishaps. Dry it out, fix the damage and move on. Perhaps a moisture alarm could be installed (about $10 at home depot) in the area of the offense as an added degree of protection and periodic cleaning of the drain line. Some swear by using bleach or tablets to prevent blockages like this but I am not convinced that is does much good.

What is a "flow valve"? Why do you not have a trap in the condensate drain line?

Yes, John, dirty filters can cause both overflows and freeze ups. Was this coil on the pressure side or the suction side of the fan?

First off, I am not familiar with the Apollo systems but you cannot mix old systems (R22) with new systems (R410a) The refrigerants and the oil are not compatible. And I think you mean "thermostatic expansion valve" not hydrostatic. The metering device is different but that is not the issue with incompatibility. You either need an R22 system or total replacement.

..........yes, the tools are adjustable. There is a "go, no-go" template piece that is supposed to be used on every fitting crimp to check tolerance. How often do you suppose that's done?[:-paperba. I've adjusted my 3/4" crimper once in the past 20 years........Greg I think the "go no-go" calibration tool is supposed to be used by the installer the first fitting every day, not necessarily on every crimp. Also, each manufacturer will have their own tool and test method, not interchangeable.

Good thought but I'm thinking there will be much more condensation building up and running on a vertical line than horizontal, especially if there are multiple metal fittings on the vertical.

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The NEC doesn't require it but the CSST manufacturer's do. (Except with the new fancy CSST.) I think what was meant is that CSST tubing is NOT bonded DIRECTLY but is bonded by bonding a section of regular pipe to which the CSST is attached. The point being that the manufacturers specifically forbid trying to bond CSST itself. Any bonding is done at the iron pipe or fittings designed for the purpose (never have seen those yet).

I agree with Scott, but I would add it looks like a pest problem. Something is sitting on the ridge of the roof and scratching, chewing, gnawing at the siding.

Agreed, something blowing out the pilot. Check both the flue and the combustion air provisions.

I've seen the brick push in and pull out but I don't have "documentation"; Just anecdotal instances I have personally observed. If you attach to brick veneer there is no lateral stability which is precisely what is needed. The air gap behind the brick allows the deck to move in or out with little to no resistance. I've seen bunches of patio roofs built with attachment to brick veneer with moderate success but without additional structure to provide lateral restraint I see failures in the veneer even with light loading. It is improper and should not be done.

I don't get the difference in your statement / question between the two examples. The issue is that brick veneer is not a structural member and as such cannot be expected to support a ledger or deck. If the structure of the building extends through the veneer then there COULD be an exception... but then there are water proofing issues. Then there is the requirement that siding be removed to install flashing prior to flashing/ledger placement which is kind of hard to do on brick veneer siding.

Yes, I have already done that. I'm hoping to get some more information for a client. Seems roofers loved it a few years ago, some instances of warranty problems, and even one lawyer wanting to set up a class action lawsuit. I'm not seeing a consensus that it is good or bad in general even though there seem to be several with issues.

Anyone have experience with failures on this? I just finished one on a repo that the shingles are broken, falling off of the house. Lots of cracking and weather cracks, seems very brittle.

I wish we could rewind life and figure out the beginning of rumors and misinformation.

I just had this type of issue on a commercial structure. I had multiple panels with 4 times as many hots from individual breakers (not 240 volt) than the number of neutrals. I can't quote chapter and verse, but I see the problem as the possibility of overloading the neutrals if splicing neutrals together and using the same size wire to the neutral bar. If there are 4 20 amp breakers, there could be 80 amps returning on the single #12 neutral wire. There is the possibility of multi-wire circuits but also the probability that it is not. Also, there is also the requirement that all wires in the circuit originate from the same panel board. (or something to that effect)

I'm not a cold climate but trying to understand. What do you mean by bleeding? I take "bleeding" to mean liquid or staining coming from one side of a product to the other such as a stain on a ceiling that "bleeds through" and becomes visible again even though the surface has been painted. Pretty much the surface would have to be porous. For a pipe I can't wrap my head around "bleeding" unless clay or another porous material. I can understand condensation or a bonafide leak. What am I missing.

This may be what you are thinking:

Does this help? 2009 IRC