inspector57

I use and iPad mini (about 5x7" screen) with HIP and it seems about right for me.

Time is all relative and no general rule of thumb should be used. Have the unit serviced and determine if it is cycling on the thermostat or other safety switch. For a properly functioning system, in general "on" time for any heat source is determined both by capacity of the furnace as well as the "load" of the house in which it is installed. The "off" time is determined solely by the effective insulation of the structure in relation to the temperature difference between indoor and outdoor temperatures. So run time is determined by the furnace and off time is determined by the house. A properly sized system will run almost continuously at design temperature, which is generally the historically coldest temperature for your location.

The breaker limits the minimum wire size, not the other way around. You can over size the wire as much as you want as long as it fits in the terminal. It may not be economically feasible, but it is not prohibited. Sometimes it is even required when downrating due to heat, or length of conductor.

I've seen it before but I have no definitive answer as to the cause. I also suspect it is a misbehaving vacuum breaker at the hose bib. It reacts too quickly for it to be anything very far upstream.

Sorry, I don't have what you need but, Have you seen this? http://www.structuretech1.com/wp-conten ... ctions.pdf Failing finding an internet source, a call directly to James Hardi for a copy of the pertinent code will likely yield the desired result.

Maybe I missed it, where did he say or where do you see "bolted" connections?

AMEN

Yep, the arm is not installed correctly from what I can see. Shorten the arm to get full height and readjust the travel limit settings. Of course this answer assumes a multitude like, the height of the door and opening being within standard limits, standard garage opener size and travel, etc.

CSST in some climatic regions is pretty good stuff, with no leaks if installed properly, no rust, and robust enough for general service. To read the PR stuff it is better than rigid iron pipe in earthquake prone areas (not something I am familiar with). But when you add in lightening, it becomes enough of a problem to be concerned. Most builders here quit using it years ago, probably because of the liability and perceived problems to consumers since it was getting a bunch of press. The north Texas area provided the perfect storm as a test bed. Builders were using the stuff almost exclusively in thousands of two story mcmansions with soaring roof lines built in the middle of a flat prairie. All of the CSST pipe and metal vent stacks and metal chimneys of the gas equipment was located in the attic 30 to 40 feet in the air in and area that has just a little less lightening than coastal Florida. The houses look like a lightening rod experiment. Lots of houses burned to the ground before the fire department could respond from a lightening strike that normally would have been just minor damage. There are no real statistics because the fire departments do not report on this separately from other types of lightening damage. But it was enough of a problem that class action lawsuits were settled and millions were paid out to provide additional bonding. CSST has been a problem for years and will continue to be a problem for years to come but only a big problem in lightening prone areas.

No it is not "OK" but as others have said it might last a bit longer than a deck without the screwed on cleats. Without the cleats it is totally wrong and with the cleats it is just a little bit less wrong.

I'm with Marc, avoid CSST of any flavor until it is proved with time. In the mean time I would use copper. I would not rip it out of a house I already owned but I would not be installing it either. Part of the risk is your lightening area. Florida and Texas are high risk areas. The bonding required is accomplished by the ground wire for the attached appliances unless the manufacturer or AHJ requires a batter bond.

Guilty. But in my defense the op did say he was using HIP and wanted to change to software "A" because he wanted to use a tablet on-site, something his current software will do, an important consideration IMHO.

If you have a moisture problem, you may have a mold problem.Get rid of the moisture problem and the mold goes away. Growing ANY type of mold in your home is never a good thing, no matter the type of mold. There is no such thing as "TOXIC MOLD". Certain people may be sensitive to certain mold strains just like certain people have nut allergies. Go to the Doctor if you suspect you have an allergy and have him test and recommend treatment and identify if you want. As has been said here before, it is impossible to identify mold based on your photo. It is useless to test and identify mold. Concentrate your efforts rather on finding if you have identifiable areas of mold growing in your home and correct the moisture problem causing the mold growth. If you have mold that you can see or smell, you have a mold problem. If you have mold problem or uncertainties that you need help with, contact an Industrial Hygienist. Do NOT ask home or mold inspectors or especially mold remediation companies for testing or investigation.

HIP is available for tablets. I use my iPad mini on site and download to my desktop to finish the report at the office.

Yep, I failed to mention Mike, also a good choice.

Clay Collings or Paul Roebuck are two names that come to mind in Houston. Both are heavily involved in teaching continuing ed courses as well as promoting inspector association education through TPREIA http://www.tpreia.com/inspectors.html I have dealt with both and can attest to their character and knowledge.

Time of day billing has been typical for commercial for years with demand meters prior to "smart" meters. I'm sure you do, but be sure you know what your power company's parameters are before addressing the need for timers. I did a conversion to timers and interlocks years ago when we first went to time of day demand billing at my church. We had no limit on demand during "off Peak" but paid the entire year for the demand portion of the bill for "on Peak" usage. The power company read the meter backwards the first several months and corrected the billing once it was brought to their attention. This really brought home the savings since the correction was several thousand dollars credit which more than paid for the conversion. I used a few low voltage relays and timers to lock out some equipment during peak hours (which also happened to be the unoccupied hours for the building) with fairly good results. Of course these were simple mechanical clocks and relays which needed attention if the power was down any length of time. But to your question, so long as the required drywall on the garage side of the wall there should not be any prohibition to your plan. "I" might lean to just attaching a thin sheet of plywood on top of the drywall rather than cutting the drywall if I planned on surface mounting since the seams will be tricky to make decent between dissimilar materials. A sheet of painted plywood with a bit of moulding might look better and would surely be faster, cleaner, and easier. JMHO

I have seen several types of fixed heating systems that are not "central". Might not work in the more frigid areas though. Two that come to mind are electric radiant heat with individual room thermostats (ceiling cable behind drywall,) and Electric base board heaters which are fixed in place and hard wired. Back in the old days, we had "Dearborn" space heaters in various rooms, those would not be Kosher now (no venting) and they might be considered portable. I kind of come down on the "window=portable" and "through the wall=non-portable" also. Not sure how that would be dealt with by the AHJ though.

R303.8 Required heating. When the winter design temperature in Table R301.2(1) is below 60?F (16?C), every dwelling unit shall be provided with heating facilities capable of maintaining a minimum room temperature of 68?F (20?C) at a point 3 feet (914mm)above the floor and 2 feet (610mm) from exterior walls in all habitable rooms at the design temperature. The installation of one or more portable space heaters shall not be used to achieve compliance with this section. Portable regardless of fuel type.

Must have been a government job. Just think how much the port-a-potty would cost using NASA spec seats would cost. [:-dunce]

Something like this might work but as Marc mentioned, I'm not sure about the camera issue but each iPhone, iPad, iPad mini, etc. will already have a different distance to the camera so I don't think that is going to make a difference. For $5 it might be worth simple trial and error.

I got the Flir One and have similar experience to Marc. I had to modify my Otter box to use it on my iPad mini. Basically there can be NOTHING between the Flir One and the phone or iPad. I'm happy with what I got for the price I paid.

Don't open it! That lets out the magic juju and it won't work anymore! Thats why they all say do not open. Either that or they know someone will get pissed if they see what is inside and realize they have been snookered.[:-censore

Lots of window detail diagrams on the Sto site. Dozens popped up when I googled "sto window detail".

How old is the house? Has there every been any roof gutters? is there a basement? Is the grade around the house sloped toward the house or away for drainage?