inspector57

The garage to house is not a fire rated assembly or a "fire wall". It IS a fire separation according to IRC it it is a single family home. Now the argument could be made that it could be an "opening" into the home which IS addressed but I think that would be pushing it. Do I like it? NO. Is it prohibited by code, most likely not.

The worst is the sewer gas that migrates out the fan when it is off. There is a reason we have traps between the vent/soil stack and the interior of the house. Of course I guess and explosion from concentrated methane might be worse.

I like the Sperry Dual check VD7504GFI. It has both non-contact and GFCI outlet tester in one instrument that I keep in my camera holster.

Start with simple things, check for adequate power first. Some dryers will run the motor even if one leg of the power supply is tripped or fuse blown.

Yes, same as you.

My limited experience with Alumicon connectors is that they take up less space than what I had feared. they are actually pretty easy to work with and accommodate inside standard boxes.

What else is on the circuit? I would be looking for changes in voltage or spikes with other loads were switched on/off. You can get some funky stuff (technical term) going when back stab or otherwise bad connections are involved.

Same as any other house. You have to see it to inspect it.

I am vaguely familiar with this type of program but have never used it. That said, why would I rent something that I can buy with a relatively short ROI compared to renting. I rent expensive stuff (i.e. tools) that I would not use enough to justify the purchase price. I buy stuff that I use continuously or that has a low initial purchase price compared to renting. Of course you want to compare apples to apples but seems like they hit on a lucrative deal for the POCO's benefit, not yours.

File the claim and get it replaced. This is common occurrence where I am and your rates will go up anyway depending on the region, not your individual claim status in this regard. Your house has already been devalued by the storm and that is why you have insurance. Yes, have someone take a look at it first, but if you have damage visible from the ground, I guarantee you have much more damage once you check it out from the roof.

We were one of the first states with licensing (over 25 years now) but I can't see that it sets a very high bar for beginners and as far as I can tell rarely prohibits the unqualified from retaining their license. It does mandate some continuing education but since licensing is regulated by the TREC, an agency run by realtors, it does not really promote excellence since that might kill deals. Licensing would do absolutely nothing to prevent the situation of the OP.

I don't do positive affirmations. As required by my state, I check the box "Inspected" and move on if there is nothing negative to report. Like Hausdok, I report on what is wrong. The one exception is the requirement in the SOP to give an opinion of the foundation. In that one instance I use the dreaded "Functioning as intended" phrase just so I don't start writing foolish things that I might regret later. (i.e. it is hard, flat, located on the ground, and I like it just fine but the color is a little boring) - just to meet the state requirement to give my opinion)

Use the rotary duct cleaning brush on a drill along with a shop vac. Works well on round and I would imagine would do an adequate job on rectangular with a bit of extra effort and dilagence unless is is exceptionally narrow. The kit I use has a adaptor for a shop vac that is used in conjunction with the brush. That or hire a duct cleaning company with the proper tools. https://www.amazon.com/Gardus-RLE202-LintEater-10-Piece-Cleaning/dp/B0014CN8Y8

I rarely use those words but I have on occasion, maybe a half dozen times over 22 years, when the house was obviously is such bad condition as to be economically unsalvageable. Of course all of the defects are documented in detail in more precise language. At least half of those clients that have received such words have bought the house anyway.

Sounds like you were a bit conservative judging by the photos (of course you were there.) I would not be surprised to see much more hidden damage. I would advise my clients to run and not look back unless they loved the property so much that they would want (and could afford) to tear it down and rebuild from the ground up. Mold would not be my primary concern but rather the structural integrity, although certainly mold would have to be dealt with. I would also imagine rebuilding in a flood zone would also have it's own issues.

Brick veneer is not a structural member. Might have to back into this and come from the other direction to see what an "approved" brick wall will support. Sometimes it is not what is prohibited but what is approved.... The code can't cover every possible stupid mistake.

My guess based on the type of wire is there is likely metallic conduit which could be the ground and the green wire should be white for a dryer neutral. So other than insulation color the installation is about as good as it gets without a rewire to pull a 4th wire.

Thanks for posting this Chad. Pretty easy to count at least 9 specific violations in this one installation. Maybe more depending on the pipe material and size. Of course that is counting the same issue stated multiple different ways in the code.

Nope, can't use a tee anyplace on the TPR drain line.

Aluminum is a great conductor of energy and vinyl is a poor conductor so yes in theory it is a true statement... BUT! Big BUT! siding is not designed to stop thermal conductance of energy through a wall, it is designed to protect it from the elements. The thickness and conductance of the materials in question are so negligible as to be meaningless in real life. This theory may have its beginnings based on the overall "feel" or even energy savings when installing vinyl over or replacing other sidings when also installing insulation under the siding. Even a moderate amount of insulation can have a significant effect when installed over otherwise uninsulated or poorly insulated houses.

It is remarkable how unstable a structure is before the sheathing and windows are installed. Makes it easier to grasp the need for bracing. I'll bet that never happens again to that crew.[:-censore

I have yet to find a sweep that is ethical. Not saying they don't exist, just that I have not found one.

Yes, Texas SOP requires : The inspection report shall include: the name and license number of each inspector who participated in performing the inspection, as well as the name(s) and license number(s) of any supervising real estate inspector(s) and sponsoring professional inspector(s), if applicable;

Just remember you must include them at present on the inspection report.

Think about a magnifying glass which concentrates the light to start a fire. It works as a ratio of the curvature of the lens and the distance to the surface affected (also the light source) so the amount of heat can vary due the the curvature of the window and the distance to the wall. Might have happened during winter due to the change in window curvature due to ambient temps as well as solar arching south during winter months. Kind of a neat problem to figure out where and when the problem occurs... unless it is your house that has the damage!