chrisprickett

Here's where I got my info: http://users.pandora.be/worldstandards/ ... .htm#plugs Click on "plugs & sockets"

There are several reasons: Those holes mate with bumps inside the receptacle that keeps the plug from falling out and also improve the contact points. Some plugs just have spring action blades that serve the same purpose. There are also some special outlets which allow you to lock the cord into the socket, by putting rods through the holes. This way, for example vending machines cannot be easiliy unplugged. Electrical devices can also be "factory-sealed" by the manufacturer using a plastic tie or a small padlock through one or both of the plug prong holes. A manufacturer might apply a plastic band through the hole and attach it to a tag that says: "You must do X or Y before plugging in this device". The user cannot plug in the device without removing the tag, so the user is sure to see the tag. I'll be danged if I know what the holes are called.

Can you tell, from the picture? It's the cylinder type thingy, right of the filter Download Attachment: 1.jpg 41.88 KB

I've been inspecting homes (construction phase inspections), in a particular subdivision, that is progressing at a snail's pace. Some homes have been dried in and loaded with tile, but not roofed, for more than three months. I have been trying to determine what the maximum exposure time is for the roofing paper. I've got my own suspicion, and several opinions, but no concrete documentation. Here are the specs of the roofing paper: 30Lb Asphalt Saturated Organic Felt The # is: ASTM D-226-97 Type II Manufacturer is: GMC Roofing & Building Paper Products Inc.id="blue"> I've "Googled" my butt off, sent several emails and left messages to the company, and no results. Got documentation?

I always wondered why the back of your head was sooo flat! I, honestly, thought it was a deformity.

If you pulled down that brick wall, you might just find a union worker asleep behind it.

Personally, I'd be pretty po'd if my second floor walk deck was pitched 1/4" per foot. My 10' deck would drop 2 1/2". I would expect the builder to be able to make it water proof without sloping it. But... I live in the desert and don't have to worry about snow, ice, and rain every 3-5 days. I think the design and slope really depends on the use, geography, and architectural constraints. When I was a contractor in CT, we'd slope them at least 1/4", roof em' with EPDM, and build removeable "duck boards" that were sloped the opposite way, so you could actually hang out (with your deck furniture) on the deck. The duck boards could be removed to clean out leaves, etc, from the deck.

How's that work on hardwood floors? Seems like it'd be mighty slippery. - Jim Katen, Oregon I prefer a rubber bath mat.

Thanks, good info. Around here, it's common practice to run a 3" line per bathroom, and drop the waste lines vertically, and te them in under the slab. Doing a 30' horizontal run is uncommon. The reason I had concerns was because that was not how the builder did it in other models at the same subdivision. The configuration was definitely a solution to missing a waste stub-out when they installed the soils and poured the slab

A buddy of mine asked me to look at his house under construction. I found that it looks as though the builder forgot to add a dedicated waste line for one bathroom, so he tied two bathrooms into one 3" waste line. The first bath has a toilet, sink, and bath, with a 3" waste line traveling about 30' (pitch is bad, but that's a different subject). It flows into a a 3" wye to the 3" waste stack. The other bath is two sinks, a tub and a toilet, that ties into the same 3" wye as the first bath. Both baths are second floor. I tried to get an answer from the IRC sizing charts (P 3004 & 3005) but it was a clear as mud. I'd appreciate some direction to the right answer and documentation.

Good info Gerry. I assumed that if I never had a reaction (been stung many times) I was good! We have a real problem in AZ with "killer bees". I may just throw an Epi-pen in my first aid kit, just in case!

May be a clogged shower valve cartridge or flow restricter.

IMO, memorizing the questions to pass the test IS unethical. I teach at an HI school, and we don't do that. I feel it is unethical because students are graduating without the proper knowledge/experience to do the job, but are representing themselves as qualified. The training course should provide the knowledge the students need to get by the exam. If the students can't absorb the class curriculum, that should be an indication that they can't perform the most basic functions of an HI.

David, "Packing down" simply means adding framing to the existing rafters to make the depth wider. AKA, padding, scabbing, etc.

Interesting...I wonder if that's why my kids blow big ol' snot honkers at the community pool????[:-slug]

When I had my construction business, we warehoused left over materials, and would bring them to the next job as needed. Left over 3-tab shingles would be used as starter course. Lumber would be used as needed. Insulation would be used to stuff around window/door jambs. I guess you COULD say that the material was paid for by the previous customer, but I would just call that good business. On the other hand, if a contractor was intenionally over-billing to get extra materials, that would be a different story.

They were making Asphalt "Lok-Tops" in 24'. Here's some pics from a magazine I salvaged from my Great-Uncle's stuff. He was a turn-of the-century brick mason: Download Attachment: Permanent Builder.JPG 147.02 KB Download Attachment: Asphalt Lok Top.JPG 156.39 KB And an ad promoting asbestos roofing: Download Attachment: Asbestos Ad.JPG 150.1 KB

John, What kind of moisture meter are you using?

Danger, Will Robinson!

I'm in 5 or6 and haven't gotten one inspection. I wouldn't waste my money.

Just a guess, but likely from a slab crack or around the icemaker water line sleeve. I'd love to get in there when they tear out the cabinet, but from what i understand, I'm not on the seller's Christmas card list[;-xmas]

I gotta tell you the truth, I broke into a cold sweat at the thought that I could have easily missed it!

I know a lot of inspectors who have a steadfast rule of not moving any "personal belongings" or whatever you want to call the homeowner's stuff. While I'm not going to drag a dresser across the floor, sometimes taking a second to move things around may (as stated by our illustrious host) "save your bacon"! Five year old home, standard piddly crap I find on most homes of that age. House has been spruced up for the sale, but housekeeping was about what you'd expect for a working family with two kids. I do the kitchen last (start the DW first). So I'm just about done, and get to the refrigerator. There is a folding tray table wedged between the frig and the base cabinet next to it. I make an "executive decision" to yank the tray out. Download Attachment: dirt near frig.jpg 146.66 KB Could have been just some garden variety spill that didn't ever get cleaned up, but I figured I'd look in the cabinet, which was crammed to the hilt with "personal belongings". I had to pull a bunch of stuff out to see the side of the cabinet. Download Attachment: water damage cabinet.jpg 159.76 KB Uh oh! Walked around to the dining room wall behind the frig, and moved an upholstered chair that was against the wall. Download Attachment: discolored grout.jpg 136.78 KB The plot thickens... I new I had a leak, likely the ice maker line. I went back to the kitchen, got on my knees and looked at the cabinet toe kick. It was a little loose, so I pulled it back. Download Attachment: termites.jpg 149.7 KB Holy subterranean termites, Batman! I watched my E&O flash before my eyes! Bottom line is, if I hadn't moved some stuff, I'd have missed this. All the "splainin" in the world about standards, disclaimers, etc, wouldn't have made a bit of difference. I would have been eating a cabinet, drywall repair, plumbing repair (who knows how much) and possibly a MOLD claim. I don't think the sellers were trying to hide the damage, but I'll never really know. Just thought I'd throw it out there.

Chad, you've piqued my interest, but not for a work van, but a family hauler. My wife doesn'y want to part w/ our 99' Expedition, but I think it's time we got something easier on fuel. I'm gonna do some research.

Going back to my kitchen days... Generally fabricators will try to seam (if a seam is needed) at the sink cut out or cook top cut out, to minimize seeing the seam. With granite, you'll almost always find a seam at the corner of an L shaped countertop. In a perfect world, there would be no seams. Because garanite is a natural product, it doesn't come in 4x8. I can be almost any size. Seams occur for the following reasons: 1. The desired counter is larger than the granite slab, or slabs, chosen. 2. The granite top must not be too large for manageable transport, getting it through doorways, and safe handling. 3. Some tops will be made of smaller, multiple slabs. This can be true of a cheaper top, or a rarer top that isn't quarried in large pieces. Regarding the sub-counter, it's usually 3/4" plywood. It can be other materials, I've seen it installed on steel tube frames. No moisture barrier is required.