Tom Raymond

Steve, You referenced a pretty intensive retro fit that addressed the entire envelope. Mark ripped out a bathroom. I don't know the scope of his entire project but there are economies of scale at work with spray foam. One could hire out the drywall and the fiberglass insulation for the cost of a spray foam kit, and in my market none of the foam companies will spray a job that small. There's also the pesky problem of turning a small bathroom into a styrofoam cooler while the rest of the house is left to breathe. I don't particularly like that idea. If the bath is the only room that's to be gutted, and he really wants foam insulation, then I say to put it back together without any insulation and then hit the whole house with something like Retro-Foam or Applegate R Foam.

He could get a two part kit for a couple hundred bucks and spray the whole room from inside, but it's just one room. It won't make a difference. Carefully placed kraft faced fiberglass batts are going to be far more efficient than what was originally there and won't cause any funny vapor issues.

The last two of these I ran into were attached to overstuffed 100 amp panels. The last one had so many transfer wires it took 6 tries to get the cover back on with everything tucked inside. If there's no generator in sight, I tell em to have the switch removed. 9 times out of 10 they need a sparky anyway.

Not for nothing, one would think a Forensic Construction Consultant would proof read what he writes. Some expert.

That's only because they think it's Robert Irvine. Inspection: Impossible.

Do they taste like crickets? My boy loves bacon cheddar crickets!

I'd get estimates from a couple of qualified contractors to repair or replace the boiler. Radiant heat is very comfortable and efficient-if it isn't something is broken. Then I'd move that coal stove upstairs and use it to supplement the boiler. It will be far more efficient when it's in the space your trying to heat. If your dead set on adding another heat source, look at stoves that will burn multiple fuels allowing you to choose the most economical fuel each season. And get something that will automate so you can get out of the house fer chrissakes!

A walk up with easy access and nothing on the floor? I'd be more worried about that the kraft paper.

Lemme get this straight. You've got visible spots on your roof from a hail storm 10 months ago and your fighting with your insurance company about replacing them now. Sound right? I wouldn't hold my breath if I were you. If it wasn't under water or spun to bits by tornado it was on fire. Underwriters are buried in claims. They never even sent an adjuster to see this poor guy. Click to Enlarge 81.21 KB Click to Enlarge 88.49 KB Click to Enlarge 57.63 KB

Thanks.[]

The bottom head is shot. The quick fix is to shorten the rod between the touch bar and the head. The pin will stop dragging but the latch may not always engage. If it is a cheapo, a new head will get you a thousand cycles or so before it acts up again. A new quality device is the only long term fix. I like Yale or Hager. A high cycle vertical road device should run around $500. If you want decades of trouble free operation you want Von Dupren. Your client will faint when they see the $900 price tag, but it's way less expensive than installing $250 S Parker devices every 18-24 months. If this is a fire rated exit expect to add $2-300 to those estimates, double that for the Von Dupren.

It's an easy fix, get one of these: http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/sto ... reNum=1273. I suppose one could add another GFCI receptacle on the red side of the circuit, but with split duplexes there is potential for only half the MWBC to trip leaving the other half energized. If it were mine, I'd alternate the duplexes (red/black/red) as opposed to splitting them. If a GFCI breaker isn't available for the panel in that house, what you have may be safer, but you need a single pole breaker and the red wire should be disconnected in the panel.

Skip the telescoping ladders and get a folding one instead. I have two Werners, an M-22 and an M-15. Both are 300 lb rated and fit inside my car and the M-22 will get me almost anywhere a 24' extension will. The 22 is heavy but the 15 is a feather and I can easily throw it over my shoulder and carry it up the other. I couldn't have safely checked out this chimney without it. Less than $300 for the pair. Click to Enlarge 108.02 KB

Any manufacturer info on it anywhere? I'm sure the local Rep would love to see how the 'developer' is misapplying his product.

James, in case you haven't noticed we are in a recession. If this guy wants to replace his furnace he will provide work for a tech, help to keep his local HVAC company solvent, and he'll contribute to the preservation of manufacturing jobs. He'll also save energy, which is good for the economy and the environment. He won't be saving any of his own money, but he will be contributing to the greater good. Advising consumers to not spend money is unpatriotic. []

A tank style gas water heater lasts about 15 years in my area if it receives routine maintenance. If you completely ignore it, it still lasts about 15 years. Unless your client is handy enough to handle the drain and flush, and thoughtful enough to change the anode rod while he's at it, he's wasting his time.

Sand filter systems need to drain. Mine drains to the storm sewer via a lift pump. The guy who put it in says one could drink the water after the sand filter. While I don't think I'll ever be thirsty enough to try it, it should be plenty clean enough to empty into a creek. I have no idea why there would be two drain fields/filters.

Thanks. I found the Standard but only the scope is available online, the full document has to be purchased. A level I ESA seems well within the capability of a home inspector, but I can see how it could quickly get far too big to handle.

Uh, it's a Sears product. Even if it was from 88 it would be old enough to advise them that. If it is a 68, the poor bastard that bought it only has a couple of payments left on it.

Sell radiant barrier insulation instead. It's whole house protection.[]

Anybody do these? How complicated are they? What's the standard? Can I be up to speed in a week, or should I push this off to someone with experience? Any takers for southern Erie County, NY?

I drove by this place yesterday and had to stop and get this picture. Enjoy! Click to Enlarge 38.53 KB

I tried to look down this one, but I couldn't find it.... Click to Enlarge 174.56 KB ...the straw in there is on the attic floor.

Agreed. It would be very helpful if someone who spoke that language could summarize that report in English.

Besides having the dumbest cover system ever, the numbers don't look anything like what's in the decoder chart. model F85H12 serial L746180 There was a service record showing cleaning every year, and more than a few repairs, going back to November 97. No manuals. It looks older than that, but it's way newer than 1954 when the house was built. Thanks in advance, Tom