Scottpat

Hey, its KY anything goes! [] No, it is not OK to dump grey water into the backyard. Caveat.... I have seen washing machines and laundry sinks discharged into the yard or field of homes out in the country, but it is still not kosher. It is a health risk when it comes down to it.

You just never know what the readings will be. With a slab home the chances are not as great for higher levels of radon, but it is possible. It all depends on if that slab has cracks or holes in it. Since you can not see every square inch of that slab and if you are in an area with known high levels of radon then Yes, the home should be tested. My slab foundation home averages around 2.1 pCi/L

That is just a crappy roof install! I do not know of any manufacturer that would allow or bless that goop to be painted on a valley like it is shown in the photo.

IMHO, Facebook is a place that you would want to depend on for much exposure unless you are friends with the world! I much prefer Linkedin, Twitter, Active Rain, Inspection News and The Inspectors Journal. I had a job last week from a person who found me from my post on The Inspectors Journal and here on IN. I have received more calls from prospective clients that see my post on one of the above discussion boards. When I post to my blog on AR it repost to Twitter, Linkedin and Facebook. It is then picked up by the various search engines.

Scott, My concern on this technique is twofold: 1 - If water ever gets into the area the gypsum compound will erode, or if it is under load it will compress due to the moisture 2 - I have a 5 gallon bucket of Compound in my garage that I left to dry out about 2 months ago, here is a picture of it. Click to Enlarge 37.07 KB As you can see, it has at least 1/2â€

A common and fairly inexpensive way to level and support a tub is to use pre-mixed drywall compound in the box. I see it all the time in my area and also when I lived down in MS. They take the mix out of the box in the plastic bag. They then place it on the floor where the tub will sit. They puncture the bags in a few areas and set the tub on top and level it out. I think most use around 4-5 bags of mix. After a week or so the mix is hard and provides the support needed. I have also seen bags filled with urathine foam placed under the tub. Seems that both methods work fine. The garden tub in my home is supported with bags of drywall compound.

If you have (and you really should) a Code Check Complete or Code Check Plumbing, you will find some good diagrams of "wet vents" and proper uses.

I went to a "Tequila Festival" (a big party in the park) in high school. I downed 3/4 bottle of El Toro and have never been so sick in my life. I believe you about removing oil. I'm also sure that the regurertation will remove most paint and mold. I'm always on my guard when I run into someone that says "Didn't you go to XYZ high school?" That depends... I too got into a fight with Jose, and got the #$%@ kicked out of me. Now, almost 10 years later, if I even smell Tequila my stomach turns. Funny how beer never does that. Bacardi "151" with Sprite chaser! Ralph was my middle name for a while!

The first thing I ask the caller is why they want a roof inspection? As Jim noted, they are being prompted to get an inspection for a specific reason. Their reason for the inspection will dictate on how I price it. For single system jobs like this, I use my hourly rate fee.

Head flashing when installed properly protects the wood..... Last I looked vinyl does not rot all that fast!

The fascia does not really look like a Hardieboard product. It kind of looks more like a hardboard product. The paint is coming off due to a moisture problem. This is also most likely why you are seeing the fascia swelling and pulling apart. This would not be the home manufacturers problem. As for paint lasting 10-15 years? That would be the paint manufacturer who would give that guarantee. I have never seen paint last that long and still look good. I have seen some paint bubbling off cementitious board(James Hardie is one brand) and it has something to do with moisture in the board that happens during its production. You need to contact the manufacturer if you know the brand on your home and tell them you have a problem. You also might consider hiring a good home inspector to take a look at your home. They will write a concise report on the problem that you can use to help direct you in the direction that you need to go.

Vinyl, aluminum, steel, particleboard, plywood, & wood siding. None of them required sheathing paper before the '06 IRC. - Jim Katen, Oregon Thank you, I never looked the others up and I just assumed it was required.... I think vinyl siding is the only one I have ever seen without it.

Just for vinyl.

I don't think a moisture barrier or house wrap was required until 2006 in the IRC. I can't look it up right now, but for some reason 2006 is standing out as the year.

Well, if they never had a problem until the new roof was installed.......... Just saying! []

Hello, For the purpose of our type of work, I would suggest using HUD Title 24, Chapter XX, Part 3285 "Model Manufactured Home Installation Standards" for practical reference. Greg I agree that 3285 does cover more than 4930.3G, but I still do not see where synthetic shims are OK and metal shims are not. This is the section that cover shims http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/cfr_2008/ ... 85.304.pdf

There is never an appropriate time for steel shims within a manufactured home pier-stack. The only approved materials for a CMU stack, in addition to the CMUs, are a solid ,hardwood cap , and hardwood, or approved synthetic shims. HUD being the AHJ. I'm fairly familiar with HUD 4930.3G and I do not recall seeing that steel shims can not be used or that synthetic shims are OK. Can you cite the the section in 4930.3G? I would like to see this in print as I have seen many with metal shims.

Pull the elements and look at them. If they are covered with heavy mineral deposits you might be able to clean them with CLR or white vinegar. They can overheat so to speak and trip the thermostat. My bet is on the lower thermostat and that is has gone bad. I replaced one on my WH and I think it cost around $12 or so.

No, not after the inspection!! You ask the caller when the call for they price! "So, Mr Caller we have a new pricing program. We let you tell us what a home inspection is worth to you! Keep in mind Mr. Caller that we will be at the home for 2-3 hours or longer depending on the size of the home. So, Mr. Caller what would you like to pay for this inspection on the most expensive thing you will ever purchase!"

We have a local coffee shop that does not post any prices. On their price board they have written; Our Coffee is the best in town! Please set your own price for what you think this wonderful cup of coffee is worth! Most pay more than what you can buy a cup for down the street at Starbucks... This coffee shop has survived and thrived over the past few years. It is always packed and folks love the place. I wonder what would happen if we told the callers to name their price for what they are willing to pay for a quality inspection?

Yep, they are in Nashvegas this year. I thought about going since it will only be about thirty minutes away, but the program they have listed just did not do much for me. They have a special, for those that are not NAHI members. If you go to their conference and you are not a member you get a free year membership.

With numbers like that you will need to be looking at other areas of the country. I know that one will be held in Vegas I think in mid October. Go to the Casey O'Malley website and you should be able to find information on it. I think it is a joint conference with CREIA and I think AZ ASHI or another ASHI chapter out that direction.

How many home inspectors are in North Dakota?

What's strange is that the numbers of inspectors in IL have been steadily growing all year. We're upwards of 2100 guys now. My guess is that unemployment is making people look for alternantive ways of making money and inspections is an easy target. [:-banghea In TN it is our mandatory E&O that makes folks think twice when it comes to the renewal of that license.

Si, Scott. And I've never used 11 - 13 years on a gas water heater. I'm thinking more like 15 - 20 years and more. They seem to do quite well. In my area a gas water heater will last on the average 8-10 years! Mostly due to the high amounts of minerals and the hard water we have.