Terence McCann

I think the Grainger book has some fan information in them as well (not at home to look right now however).

Where have you found most of the books Bill, or is it mostly hit and miss as you travel about?

Thanks Bill. The tank can be removed from the system. It's no longer needed as a water heater and the boiler is being used for hydronic heating. For residential steam systems, at least around here, I've never seen a pre-heater for makup water whether it's for a single or two pipe system (and we've got some pretty old shacks around ch'ere). For two pipe it typically goes into the condensate return. I asked once before, and I'll try once more (however I doubt the traction is any better) where do you gold mine all your pictures Bill? You had one of a structural terra cotta foundation layout (that I swiped) and I searched high and low for that, via Google, with no joy. Here, email, PM, IM, Skype, smoke signals, telepathatcly - just not after 9 PM, can't stay up late anymore.

How was heating of the water accomplished then Kurt? A seperate coal fired water heater or such?

Shell & Tube.

Click to Enlarge 48.95 KB The arrow is pointing to an expansion tank (laying on the floor). Was this piped into the domestic water system? I would think that the tank in question was from the original boiler system and used as a water heater. Kurt or Bill K should be able to say for sure. If the cold water enters the tank and then just goes to the water heater then there is no need for it. I'm sure you noted it but the domestic water system is loaded with galvinized piping. How were your water flows?

Look at all the pumps lined up square, all the valves squared, temperature gauges squared - wow. Looks just like a quality commercial installation. I look at so much crap all the time that I begin to become complaisant and indifferent. It's what has become the norm - much like crappy customer service. God dammit that's nice. I'd never get out of the boiler room. I'll bet your Great Grandfather would be impressed.

I see that all the time around here - it's never hard ducted. Bigger fish to fry. Edit: I just caught myself in one of those complacent moments. It's done all the time but it doesn't make it right. It wastes a lot of energy turning the cabinet into a plate warmer.

Actually it's beautiful. A boiler room piped like that ranks right up there with things that are pleasing to the eye. The sizing of the boiler is another matter however.

That'll help too - tnxs Erby.

Tnxs Mikey.

We had a thread on weep holes & stone exterior (I'm pretty sure). Was it determined that they are needed as in a brick veneer exterior?

Have the furnace replaced. Hire a roofer to replace the shingles. Ask your electrician to replace the FPE electrical panel. Replace the cat-pee-soaked carpets, padding, and underlayment in grandma's room. Hire an engineer to design and oversee repairs to the foundation. Hire a roofer to install proper sidewall flashing. Do no accept repairs based on the surface application of caulk. - Jim Katen, Oregon Thanks Jim.

A slight detour Jim, you state: "Excuse me, but that's not how I work. When I find a problem, I tell you what to do about it. I don't usually recommend 'getting a pro' to look at it." Can you describe what you do/say when you uncover a problem that needs to be addressed? Do you plan/spec how the repair should be carried out so that the client can take your specs out to bid?

We're talking about inspectors who routinely recommend further evaluation of every damn system in the house whether there's a problem or not. I've re-read the OP a few times and I'm not getting that message from it Jim (although it may be what the discussion has morphed into). I'm getting the message that the OP is upset that the home inspector comes into the home, finds something wrong, then defers to a licensed contractor. He thinks it would be better to cut the home inspector out and just bring in all the individual trades to go through the home. QUOTE: In order to properly inspect a property, one needs to hold a license in electrical, plumbing, roofing, structural engineering, pool/spa, and so on. A "home inspector" may charge from $100 to around $400. An electrician, plumber, roofer, etc. are each paid by their service call, or by the inspection fee, usually chargeing $50 to $75. My suggestion to the National Association of Realtors, the Florida Association of Realtors, the City of Pensacola, Escambia County, the Pensacola Association of Realtors and members is to implement an amenity inspection process in lieu of the GPHI (general practitioner home inspector/inspection). The amenity inspection will give the facts to the buyer without having to pay a home inspector $300, then having to pay a licensed amenity inspector $75 more. I can't speak for other areas of the country but around here you're not getting any trade to come out to the job site, inspect the system and then write a written report for 75 clams. To get all of the trades out, to inspect their areas would be a hell of a lot more than $300.00. Based on his logic you should bring in a structural engineer on every home sale. The real problem with this individual is that he doesn't see the value of a home inspector (or perhaps just sour grapes) but that's another kettle of fish.

I fail to see what all the fuss is about. On 99% of the inspections I'm on I find problems that will take a contractor to fix. On a few homes, not that many really, I find foundation problems that I feel needs further evaluation by a stamped engineer. Found water leak at X. Call a plumber to repair. Found horizontal crack that runs X feet on North basement wall. Call yada yada. So what? I'm not in the business of repairing problems that I find or spec'ing repairs. Am I missing something? To me it sounds like the OP has his panties in a knot because it equates to additional work on his part.

B.K. - the original myth buster.

Tell 'em something he doesn't know. []

Good news on being OK Phillip - hope your friends are as well.

Actually a CO test is beneficial, and part of the drill, when you're dialing in a gun style burner however that's a service related issue. I've never used my CO meter to check a typical residential furnace on an inspection.

Homebrew freeze protection.

I uploaded a Sanyo Serial Number ID Doc for you Bill, got it direct from Sanyo. I don't see it in the new files section however - perhaps it has to be approved first.

Found this after wasting more time in front of a computer: Boiler Explosion

If you do a bit of research there was a boiler explosion at AT&T (I think it was AT&T) where a boiler exploded due to the pressure relief being "gagged" by a maintenance worker who was doing a hydrostatic test (for annual insurance certification). I believe he forgot to "un-gag" the safety valve, started the boiler and after a malfunction out went the back of the boiler. It exploded into a cafeteria around lunch hour killing a few folks. This goes back to the late 60's early-mid 70's? The details remain fuzzy as I was transitioning from a long-haired, free spirit to a long-haired father with two curtain climbers (the spirit remained somewhat free however very grounded -I did however become an expert at working around the clock)

That's a good failure, but isn't it a fatal one? It couldn't be patched up, could it? If you could find a heat-x section it could be "fixed" however it would be tantamount to putting a new engine in a Pinto.