Brian G

Even the oldest units I've seen have this stamped into the label, so I've always assumed it was a legal requirement from way back. Does anyone know exactly where and / or when this stems from? Is it UL, manufacturer's, NEC, or what? I've also assumed it was to prevent an overload situation, but I'm open to further enlightenment about that too. Brian G. Girding My Loins for Next Time [:-fight]

Nothing to do with time or money, but if you don't start with the roof and attic in the summertime around here you might pass out when the time comes. Our climate dictates a lot of the order for me. Start outside in the summer (roof, attic, exterior) and move inside as the heat rises, then more or less reverse the order in the winter. Brian G. In the Steamy South [:-crazy]

I'm a little po'd, but nothing came to mind on the tag line. Once in a while the well runs dry (briefly). [] Brian G. Rather Be On This Tag Line Than the One at the State Prison [:-sour][:-bigeyes

Originally posted by monte The AHJ person might agree with your position but is powerless to enforce that position because he can only enforce code requirements that his locality had adopted in the year that the construction of the permit was issued. As for the document that Jim provided, it agrees with your position but it is most likely not a code requirement for your area “YETâ€

Originally posted by kurt In a way, it was sort of humorous; the realtor was effusively proclaiming that "they brought in 12 men from Poland to chink the logs", like smearing Permachink on the bark was some sort of Olde World tradition reaching back centuries. Got a grin out of that one. [] After toying w/her, I brought the hammer down coldly. She was smart enought to know she'd been had. It was the most fun I've had in, oh, 3 or 4 days. You're a bad, bad man Mitenbuler. Surely there's a special place in Realtor Hell reserved just for you. [:-hot][:-devil][:-dev3] Brian G. Not Associated With That Mean Ole' Mitenbuler Fellow [^]

Originally posted by Erby Some specialists, and other people, will disagree with my opinions. I always defer to specialists opinions, since as a matter of law, they are supposed to know more than I do. That's a little farther than I can go Erby. I'm not deferring to specialist who's just plain wrong when I can prove it. The gentleman in question may have qualifications stretching from here to the coast and back, but he's wrong. 408.21 Grounded Conductor Terminations. Each grounded conductor shall terminate within the panelboard in an individual terminal that is not also used for another conductor. Question: Is an equipment ground considered a "conductor"? I remembered after posting the topic that this is actually the third time, but the guy in-between didn't put anything in writing. And at the risk of drift, I also had a HVAC contractor today who declined to install the correct size of breaker on a condenser unit. That one stunned me for a second or two...it's stamped right into the label fer cryin' out loud. Brian G. In the Land of Genius Contractors [:-boggled

For the second time in my young career I've had an electrician refuse to correct multiple neutrals in one terminal and/or grounds & neutrals mixed in one terminal, in a main panel. Both said in writing that it was "common practice" and "not a potential hazard", and the second guy backs this with a phone call to a local AHJ who agreed with him (he says). I don't doubt the guy probably said it. I can't help wondering if these guys were paid to refuse to make the repair. I mean hell, you're hired to go to some house and correct the electrical stuff in an inspection report (the only such item in this case), but you go out there, have a look, and decide for yourself not to do it...but bill for your time anyway? How can I get a job where I refuse to do what's asked but still get paid? Anyway, could someone with the new NEC stuff post the exact part of the current code where they say you can't do this? And correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't that old "interpretation by the local AHJ" thing only where the code isn't clear or definitive? If it plainly says you "must" or "cannot", etc., can the local guy overule the code (technically speaking, of course)? Gotta love these guys...they know better than the people who make the equipment or those who write the NEC. I'm in such rarified company here...[:-dunce] Brian G. Miffed in Mississippi [:-irked]

I should also say that this book gave me real hope early on that this business was not BS. I was already well aware of the problems with Zinzco and FPE, ITE sent this book in with the other materials, and there they were. No mamby-pamby or whitewash....bad stuff, watch out for these and warn your clients. I felt better already. Brian G.

Our county appraisal office is on-line, so I check there when in doubt. Brian G.

Originally posted by inspecthistoric Traditional or EIFS, why doesn't anyone install kick-outs at the termination of roof-to-wall joints? Don't feel bad, I have yet to see my first one on ANY kind of siding at rake walls around here. Never..seen..one. Strangely, some houses have a 2 - 8 inch rot-spot at every single one of those places, and some have none at all...with no discernable differences in the installations. Brian G. Thankful to Not Be a Kick-out Salesman []

I saw a show yesterday called "Back to the Blueprint" on the History Channel. They look at a particular historic style in each episode, going from the foundation to the roof about how they were constructed and why, and how to restore them properly. The one I saw was on Shotgun Cottages in New Orleans, and was very interesting and informative. They even discussed the specific variation of mortar mix used to account for the extra expansion / contraction due to the local climate (for some reason Kurt came to mind). I thought it was a damned good show for a historic-lovin' HI to watch. The next one is a repeat from last November (when this series actually started) on Chicago Bungalows. Here's a link to the home page: http://www.historychannel.com/global/li ... twCode=THC Brian G. [:-magnify

Siemens is what use to be ITE, bought out years ago but changed mostly in name. Square D never made a breaker that would fit anything BUT a Square D panel until a few years ago, when they decided to make a "me too" line designed to mimic the basic pattern of most of the other manufactuers. I saw one of those in a GE panel the other day, but it fit okay. My guess would be that the one in the photo just isn't properly installed, but it could also be flawed. If it wouldn't fit I'd write it up, but I've never written up mixed brands myself. In my combined years of selling, tinkering, and inspecting electrical stuff I have yet to see a single problem result from Brand A breaker being installed in Brand B panel. Brian G. Speaking Only for Me, Myself, and I

One of my personal favorites too. Written by a home inspector for home inspectors, in fairly plain English. I've gotten more than my money's worth, if I never pick it up again. Brian G. [:-graduat

The concensus around here is that double-taps are only kosher on the one or two breakers actually designed to accept them (certain Sq. D & Cutler-Hammer models), and triples are never allowed. Aluminum wiring depends on the details of the situation. Got details? The #12 30 amp AC circuit is probably fine. The code allows going one size under on those circuits. The open outlet box is just plain bad, an accident waiting to happen. With a switch no less...you reach in, your finger slips, and....[xx(] Brian G.

Amen. Brian G.

Originally posted by Jim Katen Actually, in the case of a spa or pool, you would not want to connect the metal siding to the earth. If you did that and there were a lightning strike in the vicinity, you could get a deadly voltage gradient between the siding and the pool or other nearby metal parts. Every piece of metal near the pool or spa should be connected to every other piece of metal and not independently connected to the earth. Ah-so. I wasn't thinking of a pool & spa application, just the typical house with aluminum siding, but I agree. But come to think of it, in the typical metal siding situation you would probably still want to bond it rather than ground it though, right? Actually I just wanted to throw "earthing" in there for your benefit. [:-dev3][][:-dev3] Brian G. Licensed, Bonded, Insured, and Earthed []

And I would've sworn a term like "exterior drywall" or "gypsum sheathing" was an oxymoron. Go figure. [:-dev3][][:-dev3] Mucho gracias gentlemen. Brian G.

I did a house today with EIFS on the front and chimney chases. When I was in the attic I noticed that the substrate looked like drywall...never seen that before (usually OSB around here). It was at the very least made like drywall, with paper encasing a hard, white chalky substance, and the words "water resistant" stamped on it. It wasn't green or anything. Did any manufacturer use or allow such a substrate? What could it be other than some sort of wet location drywall? Brian G.

Originally posted by Jim Katen I wonder, though. If someone did want to ground or bond aluminum siding in an effective manner, how he would go about doing it. There are hundreds of separate pieces on a house and while they're snapped together that isn't the same thing as a good electrical connection. Gotta agree with that. Think of all of the little, short, odd-shaped pieces that you would have to account for, the trim, etc. The only practical potential solution that comes to mind would be some kind of bonding clips to go between pieces at installation, then ground (or "earth", Jim loves that term) in a few different places for insurance. It could be reasonably effective if it were done right (and therein lies the rub of course). Brian G.

Jeez, lookit them feets! It's the HI from Atlantis! Oh well, if you have to have two of something grow together, it could have been worse. [] Brian G. Never Won "Mr. Pretty Feet" Myself [:-paperba

I don't know if they ever made a similar plumbing product, but I can't help thinking of plaster-bond when I read the part about the blue coating. Electrical is usually gray, used for harsh enviroments. You don't suppose someone used that instead...? Brian G.

Unless it's really old the max will be 40 cicuits for any 200 amp GE panel of 20 circuits or more (includes 20, 24, 30, and the true 40). Whether or not it's overloaded is more of an amperage question. Brian G.

That's the first I've heard of it. They sometimes apply the stuff right over shingles here (if only 1 layer). Mine was put down directly over the decking, but I did use plywood myself. Brian G.