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mjr6550

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Everything posted by mjr6550

  1. The blue color looks like a Ford WH. Sid Harvey may private label them. Bill is correct that they would not be the manufacturer. Ford did use the four digit code and that would be 1991. My records say they went out of business in the early 1990s.
  2. Lower left hand corner of label says 0191. Could be 1991, or 2001. I look at other dates, such as on the TPRV for hints.
  3. I have seen them before and sometimes its impossible to figure out. The first thing I look for is an exposed nail or a hole in a shingle. I see many like that where scaffold brackets were nailed through shingles, but they are always close to edges. Sometimes it can be water traveling down from above or from a nearby valley, but then usually would enter at a seam. Could have entered through a nail hole in the sheathing that it not in the roofing.
  4. He is not listed in PA's list of certified testers, but the DEP is probably the least of his problems. I hope he goes to jail for Fraud.
  5. Give 120% to every client. Make them want to refer you to others. Spend as much time as is necessary inspecting every part of the house. If you don't know the answer to something spend as much time as it takes to learn the answer. Keep doing that and eventually you will become a very good or great inspector.
  6. Pretty much the only SYP up here is PT framing lumber and T&G sub-flooring, which of course is not used much.
  7. It is a wind cap, but I don't see anything close enough to cause downdrafts. Could be that the flue is small. The cap looks small.
  8. Looks ok to me. Maybe someone looked at it and thought it looks odd, so they decided it must not be correct. If they are going to cancel their insurance I think they should at least be entitled to an actual reason.
  9. I follow Mike's approach for the reason the OP noted in his followup post. I don't make a big deal of everything, but it goes in the report. That is probably why my inspections are now taking 3-1/2 to 4 hours, and why I try not to do many inspections anymore.
  10. By treated do you mean pressure treated? I would use salvaged old growth wood or redwood. For saving rotted wood the liquid epoxy consolidant is great. I realize that in GA SYP is the common available wood, but I cannot imagine using it for trim. Too hard and warps too much.
  11. By treated do you mean pressure treated? I would use salvaged old growth wood or redwood. For saving rotted wood the liquid epoxy consolidant is great.
  12. My office is lit with shop lights that stay on all day and half the night. Maybe its time to convert to LEDs. I have switched out all of my high hats and quite a few other bulbs. Click to Enlarge 15.77 KB
  13. leakage from ice damming could be a possibility, but the stains were much darker than usual. No signs of condensation-the sheathing was not discolored.
  14. I saw these stains at several areas in an attic. They are not from condensation. No apparent odor to them and I was not in the mood to taste them. I'm thinking it is asphalt or something leaching out of the moisture barrier on the insulation. I think I have seen this in the past, but not often. Any thoughts? Click to Enlarge 30.1 KB Click to Enlarge 36.69 KB
  15. I see plenty of unprotected NM wire, but in newer construction often covered with a piece of Sealtight (not necessarily with any connectors at the ends). On new construction now I typically see cord and plug connected. I remodeled my kitchen last year and the inspector told me during my rough inspection to make sure I used a cord because a disconnect is required and the switch does not count. I used a push button switch mounted in the countertop and that is designed to work with a cord and plug. The GD also came with a cord and plug.
  16. I think a 4' is more useful for checking foundation walls and walls that are out of plumb or floors that are out of level. I actually seldom use a level during home inspections but I use levels (including laser levels) for many structural inspections.
  17. Construction varies quite a bit in different areas and at different times of construction. I assume the concrete block (not cinder block) wall is a bearing wall to support floor joists and loads from above. There should be a footing under the slab (or the slab should have been thickened at this area). If the slab is sitting on bedrock it would not matter. If sitting on poor soil it could matter.
  18. They didn't look much better than that when they were new.
  19. I am wary because there can be tons of damage to walls and often there is little to no sign of a problem inside the house. Of course, the visible installation details are always wrong.
  20. 1. Porch built on fill and slab or foundation settled or pushed out walls a bit. 2. Concrete shrinkage.
  21. They work cheap and that is just what the builder is looking for.
  22. I have been involved with dozens of tear-offs of stucco and manufactured stone. Also many inspections. Here are photos from an inspection this past Thursday. Click to Enlarge 32.91 KB Click to Enlarge 42.94 KB
  23. This is the work you get for $530,000 in Philadelphia. Click to Enlarge 39.99 KB Download Attachment: P1125840 (512x341).jpg 64.15 KB Click to Enlarge 23.08 KB Click to Enlarge 31.17 KB Click to Enlarge 24.48 KB Click to Enlarge 42.11 KB Click to Enlarge 42.12 KB Click to Enlarge 46.22 KB Click to Enlarge 25.49 KB
  24. Regarding the knob and tube, I have heard that more times than I can count, and it is often not true. The lack of venting is probably not a big deal. A couple gabled end vents may be worthwhile.
  25. I'm guessing a lot of contractors dig a trench and lay the conduit in it without the conduit being fully supported. Then throw tons of soil on top of it and it cracks. I've seen my share of leaky conduits, but never dug one up.
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