Mike Lamb

There was also a recent discussion that roofing membrane should not extend up the parapets and that they should not be painted or sealed due to moisture vapor transmission issues. Oh, my.

This 5 yr old bldg has quite a bit of efflorescence (I think) coming out of the upper wall weeps. Some of them almost looked deliberately sealed but the stuff was hard and calcified when I scraped it so I'm assumimg salt. Nearly all the upper weeps had white stuff coming out of them. It was brick cavity construction. Has anyone seen this excess before? The top floor unit had moisture entering through the wall/ceilings in various places and also water coming in from the the tops of the windows and above the back door. I believe someone neglected or truly screwed up the flashing. The builder mopped/painted the entire 5 yr old mod bit roof with plastic cement including the tops of the limestone coping. I don't believe this was ever a roof problem. Image Insert: 241.18 KB Image Insert: 264.85 KB Image Insert: 313.94 KB

I use a local company. They charge me $130. All they do is monitor. No mitigation. I charge my client $180. I provide some phone numbers and they make all arrangements to get in and out. I make sure they come in after my inspection so I don't get accused of opening windows or leaving the thermostat at the wrong temp, etc.

100th Street Code - Evergreen Park. I guess you live right around 100th Street? Frank I do.

What's the 100th Street Code? How does that code section apply to a family with tall parents and short children? - Jim Katen, Oregon The 100th Street Code is a code I made up and it doesn't help anybody. You could use it but I don't believe it's a credible reference. In short, I was trying to be funny. I believe goose neck attachments or adjustable sliding shower heads could easily remedy ht. issues.

This home had button-like sensors located on the walls for each zone instead of a standard home thermostat. In the basement there was a closet with several typical thermostats and one I'd never seen before. What is the advantage to this set-up and where can I find more info about it? What should I properly call this system? Image Insert: 116.57 KB Image Insert: 221.05 KB?

I'd be worried about the height of the ceiling above the shower drain. The shower head can easily be adjusted if there's head room. The 100th Street Code says 12.4.33: (b) "the shower head should be at last 10" but not more than 8' above the head of the person showering."

A couple of years ago at the end of an inspection as I was explaining problems to the buyer and what it would take to fix it, the realtor had a melt down and told the buyer that he had heard that I make up problems and then offer to fix them cheap, "to drum up extra business." I told him that was a lie which it was. It was a ugly. My client, a Chgo. cop thought it was funny and told me he knew the guy was a dick and to forget about it. I let it go. Over a year later I run into the same real estate agent. I warned my client about him and sure enough he told them the same thing only not in front of me. Anyway, I had to get a lawyer to send this goof and the goof's broker a letter saying I was suing if they did not sign and return a cease and desist document which they did. Regardless, my reputation probably took a hit by the others he no doubt told this to. Chicago's Southwest side is a small place. Anyway, I have never offered to do repairs and don't plan on it even though I am asked on every other job. I even have a statement in my report that I do not do repairs or recommend anyone to fix the stuff I find. I have too many dirtbag enemies.

It's not a code violation. And I rarely see moisture problems when the bathroom exhaust fan dumps directly into the attic. However, that is a code violation.

I'd have the agent or someone get on the phone and get permission for me to open it before I leave. And if I got pemission, I'd take before and after pictures.

I keep about 30" of #12 elec. wire rolled up in my bucket for tying my ladder off to gutters and lifting pump floats

Got kids? A Chrysler Town and Country (about $17,000 new) mini-van with a luggage rack could work. I put 2 ladders on top. Seats inside are removable or fold over to put in more small ladders and stuff. My mpg is about 18- which is poor.

I apologize if this has been discussed but my TIJ search didn't get me anything. I'm going to start a quarterly newsletter, or some such thing, and need suggestions on managing the email part of it. I'm looking at about 500 email addresses from past customers. I know TIJ and lots of sites already do this but likely on a scale much larger than mine, if that matters. Any help is appreciated.

Going straight up through the roof is probably the best that can be done here short of moving the laundry to an outside wall. There are roof vents designed for this bad idea. Leafblower? There's a whip tool with a brush at the end that can be hooked up to a drill. http://www.woodlanddirect.com/Chimney/D ... rce=nextag

You could try this but its too many words. "The set-up for the clothes dryer venting is horrible. The proper venting of water, lint and other gases will be nearly impossible. This is a moisture, mold. fire and CO hazard. Plus it may take forever for your clothes to dry. Consult anyone but an architect (who decided the laundry room should be in the middle of the house) or a clothes dryer installation professional (who, if they could read directions, would be teachers)."

This is my present disclaimer. I just don't check it, I tell them what it all means. Æ’Ã Note: It is not uncommon for homes, especially older homes to have hidden sewer problem. A TV scope of the underground drain/sewer by a licensed plumber is recommended. Good luck.

There is steel under the brick so I assume a cantilever. My understanding is this chimney has been in place about 8 months and is a standard size brick veneer like the brick laying on the ground. There was no signs of stress that I could see. This is a 2 story chimney. My IRC 2000 says: R1001.1.1 Support. Masonry chimneys shall be supported on foundations of solid masonry or concrete at least 12 inches (305 mm) thick and at least 6 inches (152 mm) beyond each side of the exterior dimensions of the chimney. Footings shall be founded on natural, undisturbed earth below the frostline. In areas not subject to freezing, footings shall be located a minimum of 12 inches (305 mm) below finished grade. However, if the firebox is not real masonry and the chimney is a veneer, it is not a real masonry chimney, and is not subject to R1001. Right?

This chimney was added after the house was built. and it serves a manufactured steel fireplace (DESA). It's obviously heavy and is supported by something. Is this considered a masonry chimney which needs to be supported by solid masonry beneath as per IRC? Image Insert: 190.44 KB Image Insert: 165.42 KB

One thing I forgot to include was my magnifying glass. Since I had lasik, I can’t see a thing. My real estate referrals are way up, though. I test floor drains by pouring a bucket of water down them. All of them. If I am lazy or it’s not practical, I throw in couple of cups of water and see if the trap water rises. That's one reason I got the cup. I see if the water and ice on the fridge works. I “testâ€

No shorts. Ever. I have to protect my legs. Leg model, you know. Red Wings, jeans, no shirt. (Hmm, why am I not busy?) Fanny pack for car keys, band-aids, pens, cheapie elec. tester. For attics and crawl I use 2 fanny packs for camera, moisture meter and other small things. Tool belts hurt my back so stay away from them during inspections. I think a vest would hurt my back too. I carry a bucket around with me with the apron. I pulled everything out for the photo. My camera is a $90 Kodak 2 pix I've had since 2003 and I like it fine. Image Insert: 157.87 KB

"The large print giveth, and the small print taketh away." -Tom Waits

I had a dishwasher leak. Once. To get such grief from something I consider so unimportant was a rookie mistake on my part. Water screws up everything. Look at the Grand Canyon. This is obvious. If you “testâ€

How about, "I do not walk on brittle roofing because I could unintentionally damage the roof, hurt myself, or hurt someone on the ground." Around my nape of the neck, we have slate, asbestos, clay, concrete,...for me, it is not worth walking. Short changing the customer? The edge with a ladder, or the ground with binocs will give me a decent idea, and is the best I will do. PRESS ON! "Nothing in the world can take the place of persistence. Talent will not; nothing is more common then unsuccessful people with talent. Genius will not; unrewarded genius is almost a proverb. Education will not; the world is full of educated derelicts. So press on towards your highest calling. You can make it." -Um, don't know the source

I'm not sure why (heat conductivity?) but combustibles AND building insulation are not allowed within 1" of b-vents. I've failed my way to success. -Thomas Edison

The cost of repair depends on alot of things - size of glazing, type, thickness, what kind of sash, etc. Around here a 2' x 3' glaze, 7/8" thick, clear, no gas, vinyl sash costs about $100 if you bring it in and $170 if they come out to fix it.