Mike Lamb

You are right. That is from the gas section of the IRC. I am considering the spark potential from an electrical connection or switch. I’m not sure if I’ve ever seen an electric water heater in a garage. There’s not many elec water heaters at all in my area. I am trying to justify how I would write it up for my client. I would recommend raising it. From UPC 2000: 510.1 Water heaters generating a glow, spark or flame capable of igniting flammable vapors may be installed in a garage, provided the pilots, burners or heating elements and switches are at least eighteen (18) inches (457 mm) above floor level.

IRC definition: IGNITION SOURCE. A flame spark or hot surface capable of igniting flammable vapors or fumes. Such sources include appliance burners, burner ignitors and electrical switching devices. Unless things have changed from the 2000 IRC, G2408 (305.2) covers the elevation of any appliance and not just gas fired ones. So an electric water heater should be raised from the floor.

No plastic or foil at the transition duct. Only solid or semi-rigid metal. Semi-rigid is corrugated isn't it? Dryer shouldn't be on carpeting.

Water saturated masonry will wick up like a sponge. Lots of ground water in this area?

Greg, show photos. Did you meet the roofer you know and trust at the house to help you evaluate? It's your ass, you should have been there with him taking photos. Without photos, I'm not sure anyone here can give you a decent opinion. If I were an angry homeowner, I'd be on the roof taking lots of pictures.

These disconnects were not behind the condensers but off to the side which is good enough for me. Still, this violates working space requirements of 30â€

None of the raceway is visible from outside. Why would visibility makes a difference? That said, I have looked over ARTICLE 320 Armored Cable: Type AC and found nothing wrong with this installation. I do find it odd that that there is a section re: EMT connections embedded in mortar (358.42 Couplings and Connectors. Couplings and connectors used with EMT shall be made up tight. Where buried in masonry or concrete, they shall be concrete tight type. Where installed in wet locations, they shall be of the raintight type.) and none about AC connectors enbedded in mortar which is likely the case here. Can an AC connector be rain tight? Is there a concrete type connector for AC? Image Insert: 73.23 KB

This AC heads to an outside GFCI which would be considered a damp or wet location. Right? And I'd like to double check that this is the correct NEC reference: 320.10 Uses Permitted. Where not subject to physical damage, Type AC cable shall be permitted as follows: (3) In dry locations Image Insert: 130.54 KB

Would a thermal imaging camera help at all with this question?

How about a bad waste pipe beneath the slab?

I have trouble understanding your English but my Maytag says the the exterior exhaust hood should be a 12" min. above the ground or any obstuction, such as flowers, rocks, snow line, etc. If you get the make and model of your machine you could probably get the installation instructions over the internet. I have found that the IRC requirements are often about twice as strict as the manufacturer re: duct lengths which is probably a good thing.

Image Insert: 62.2 KB This fella won't be going home for Christmas.

That would make sense. 1920's. No weeps.

Does a cladded lintel accelerate steel failure? This home had lintel problems in unclad areas as well that were failing just fine. Image Insert: 82.9 KB Image Insert: 96.62 KB

Fat.

I never heard of that either. I had this in my library. I'm not sure where I copied this from since I don't have a copy of the IRC 2006. IRC 2006 P2803.6.1 Requirements for discharge pipe. The discharge piping serving a pressure-relief valve, temperaturerelief valve or combination valve shall: 1. Not be directly connected to the drainage system. 2. Discharge through an air gap located in the same room as the water heater. 3. Not be smaller than the diameter of the outlet of the valve served and shall discharge full size to the air gap. 4. Serve a single relief device and shall not connect to piping serving any other relief device or equipment. 5. Discharge to the floor, to an indirect waste receptor or to the outdoors. Where discharging to the outdoors in areas subject to freezing, discharge piping shall be first piped to an indirect waste receptor through an air gap located in a conditioned area. 6. Discharge in a manner that does not cause personal injury or structural damage. 7. Discharge to a termination point that is readily observable by the building occupants. 8. Not be trapped. 9. Be installed to flow by gravity. 10. Not terminate more than 6 inches (152 mm) above the floor or waste receptor. 11. Not have a threaded connection at the end of the piping. 12. Not have valves or tee fittings. 13. Be constructed of those materials listed in Section P2904.5 or materials tested, rated and approved for such use in accordance with ASME A112.4.1. I'd say the TPRV has been modified and ask if the manufacturer of the tank thought that this was OK.

Pulling into the garage. Probably. Backing out. NO. I sank posts next to my meter after my wife took it off the side of the house one 20 degree January evening. The fire dept came and set up this huge fan while a guy capped the pipe. By 2 AM the gas company had a new meter in. I was impressed. And no charge.

Ah, Alabama. Never mind.

If that is mold (very odd color), it likely happened when the house was occupied. Water vapor/ humidity will actively and insidiously seek a colder surface on which to condense like on the outside wall in an unheated closet, or on the wall in an unfinished basement, or under the roof sheathing in the attic. When the moisture is trapped like by clothing against the wall in a closet or in the corner of an unfinished basement or in a poorly insulated and ventilated attic, you get mold. I’d also send my client to the EPA website for guidance on mold clean-up and not to a mold clean-up specialist. Ugh. I know this is a thread drift but I’m also directing folks to the CDC which is not as wimpy as the EPA re: mold info. Below is some info I gathered from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention’s web site that I send to clients with mold concerns. http://www.cdc.gov/mold/stachy.htm#Q1. 1600 Clifton Rd, Atlanta, GA 30333, U.S.A. Tel: (404) 639-3311 • CDC Contact Center: 800-CDC-INFO • 888-232-6348 (TTY) I highlighted the sentences in RED. I heard about "toxic molds" that grow in homes and other buildings. Should I be concerned about a serious health risk to me and my family? The term "toxic mold" is not accurate. While certain molds are toxigenic, meaning they can produce toxins (specifically mycotoxins), the molds themselves are not toxic, or poisonous. Hazards presented by molds that may produce mycotoxins should be considered the same as other common molds which can grow in your house. There is always a little mold everywhere - in the air and on many surfaces. There are very few reports that toxigenic molds found inside homes can cause unique or rare health conditions such as pulmonary hemorrhage or memory loss. These case reports are rare, and a causal link between the presence of the toxigenic mold and these conditions has not been proven. A common-sense approach should be used for any mold contamination existing inside buildings and homes. The common health concerns from molds include hay fever-like allergic symptoms. Certain individuals with chronic respiratory disease (chronic obstructive pulmonary disorder, asthma) may experience difficulty breathing. Individuals with immune suppression may be at increased risk for infection from molds. If you or your family members have these conditions, a qualified medical clinician should be consulted for diagnosis and treatment. For the most part, one should take routine measures to prevent mold growth in the home. I found mold growing in my home, how do I test the mold? Generally, it is not necessary to identify the species of mold growing in a residence, and CDC does not recommend routine sampling for molds. Current evidence indicates that allergies are the type of diseases most often associated with molds. Since the susceptibility of individuals can vary greatly either because of the amount or type of mold, sampling and culturing are not reliable in determining your health risk. If you are susceptible to mold and mold is seen or smelled, there is a potential health risk; therefore, no matter what type of mold is present, you should arrange for its removal. Furthermore, reliable sampling for mold can be expensive, and standards for judging what is and what is not an acceptable or tolerable quantity of mold have not been established. You can also find more info re: mold from the EPA at http://www.epa.gov/iaq/molds/moldguide.html

If you have reason to believe it is or will be used as a bedroom. Cite your concerns and f*ck all the noise. The area in my photo is a bedroom and it poses serious problems for the one sleeping there. Image Insert: 71.86 KB

Sure. That would be fine.

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The IRC 2000 didn't allow it. R316.2 Guard opening limitations. Required guards on open sides of stairways, raised floor areas, balconies and porches shall have intermediate rails or ornamental closures that do not allow passage of a sphere 4 inches (102 mm) in diameter. Required guards shall not be constructed with horizontal rails or other ornamental pattern that results in a ladder effect.

id="blue">I think you have to love it. Do you love it?

To stop the moisture, I'd recommend a good water proofer. They are not all crooks. Stop the water if that's possible although CMU can be a tough nut, and then fix the other stuff.