Mike Lamb

Is anyone familiar with enclosed service cable with a metal covering? I just saw it for the first time and I'm wondering about what sort of history it has. Download Attachment: 100_5402.JPG 259.19 KB

Just as interesting, Mike--How did you get the server to allow you to upload a 450 K photo? I'm continually having to resize uploads since Mike instituted file-size limits several months ago. Gosh, Bain. Getting a question about doing stuff on a computer is a first for me. I'm a total dumb-ass with this contraption. Server? I think restaurant or alter boy. 450K? That's a retirement investment thing, right? File size limit? Oh, crap. I have been frustrated that I have been unable to post any photos as of late (y'all have missed out on some world changing images, let me tell you). So when choosing an image I tried changing my "Files of type" from "All files (*.*)" to, "Pictures (*.gif, *jpg)." And it worked. And, oh yes, a ball peen hammer. Come on, a fried mouse is way more interesting.

Download Attachment: 100_4961.JPG 447.65 KB The immediate family of this mouse will testify that Wadsworth panels are unsafe.

I don't see any seams. This should give you a good clue as to what the roof material is. Maybe it's just me, but I'd make sure you put a board or a piece of plywood under you ladder legs next time.

I also try to carry a back-up nose. Yesterday, I thought I smelled a leak and the RE agent and my client couldn't smell anything. On my second smell, I couldn't either. So I reconsidered. It might have been my breath.

Beware, the dryer duct. Fire and CO hazard. Slinky foil and/or plastic is allowed by NO major manufacturer’s instructions for ducting. Manufacturer’s instructions supercedes any code. The inevitable sagging, collapsing, kinking of this crappy product is the problem. Friction, damned friction. Here’s an article I got printed in a local rag: Don’t Get Burned by the Clothes Dryer! By Mike Lamb Clothes dryer lint is an ingredient used in fireplace starter logs. Savvy campers bring dryer lint on their trips to easily start campfires. Take a clump of your clothes dryer lint outside and put a match to it. I have. It doesn’t just catch fire, it bursts into flames. That said, it’s not surprising that over 15,500 fires a year are started by the clothes dryer (this figure has decreased from over 22,000 fires in the 1970’s). So obviously, it’s important for everyone to take dryer exhaust seriously. With gas dryers, carbon monoxide poisoning also becomes an issue. Here’s what to look for: Check behind the dryer at the flexible transition duct. It’s usually flexible right behind the unit so the dryer can be moved away from the wall for cleaning and installation. Any flexible white plastic or silver foil type duct is the absolute worst and should be replaced with solid or semi-rigid flexible metal. Check any duct behind the dryer for crimping or severe bends. ALL duct after this so-called “transition ductâ€

$12,000 to $20,000.* Naturally, concealed defects are not within the scope of this estimate. We'll talk. *Estimates provided for repairs are based on a limited visual inspection. The actual costs to correct problems may be more or less depending upon a more detailed professional analysis.

My problem with maglights was losing them. Too expensive. For general nosing around, I buy the cheapest <$5 around. I carry 2 or 3 back-ups and lots of batteries. I bring out my good lights only for attics and crawlspaces and they are not Mags.

So, since rain rarely falls straight down, the steeper the pitch of the roof, the less rain volume will fall on the roof.

I shot these trying to catch a lightning bolt. Download Attachment: 100_4539.JPG 308.28 KB Download Attachment: 100_4549.JPG 374.19 KB

It's a smoke detector. When they first appeared during the Grover Cleveland administration, they were often installed on the sides of curios. Or it's mold.

You are supposed to contact the local USPS before installing. 3.12.1 Assembly and Installation A complete set of instructions for assembling and mounting the mailbox shall be furnished with each unit. The instructions must include the following conspicuous message: CUSTOMERS ARE REQUIRED TO CONTACT THE LOCAL POST OFFICE BEFORE INSTALLING THE MAILBOX TO ENSURE ITS CORRECT PLACEMENT AND HEIGHT AT THE STREET. GENERALLY, MAILBOXES ARE INSTALLED AT A HEIGHT OF 41-45 in. FROM THE ROAD SURFACE TO INSIDE FLOOR OF THE MAILBOX OR POINT OF MAIL ENTRY (LOCKED DESIGNS) AND ARE SET BACK 6-8 in. FROM FRONT FACE OF CURB OR ROAD EDGE TO THE MAILBOX DOOR. http://pe.usps.com/text/dmm300/508.htm

Everything, including common sense to code to manufacturers’ instructions says there has to be wall to roof flashing. IRC 2000 R703.8 Flashing. Approved corrosion–resistive flashing shall be provided in the exterior wall envelope in such a manner as to prevent entry of water into the wall cavity or penetration of water to the building structural framing components. The flashing shall extend to the surface of the exterior wall finish and shall be installed to prevent water from reentering the exterior wall envelope. Approved corrosion–resistant flashings shall be installed at all of the following locations: … At wall and roof intersections.id="size5"> This link has good illustrations. http://www.ibacos.com/pubs/RoofFlashing ... lashing%22

SECTION M1502 RANGE HOODS M1502.1 General. Range hoods shall discharge to the outdoors through a single–wall duct. The duct serving the hood shall have a smooth interior surface, shall be air tight and shall be equipped with a backdraft damper. Ducts serving range hoods shall not terminate in an attic or crawl space or areas inside the building. Exception: Where installed in accordance with the manufacturer’s installation instructions, and where mechanical or natural ventilation is otherwise provided, listed and labeled ductless range hoods shall not be required to discharge to the outdoors. M1502.2 Duct material. Single–wall ducts serving range hoods shall be constructed of galvanized steel, stainless steel or copper.

For the HI, looking at how the ledger is anchored to the building is what's critical. This seems to me to be the common thread to the lethal vanishing floor tragedies we've seen. Ledger failure. The house is not supporting one side of the deck. The fasteners are. I think solid anchoring every 16" or two anchors every 32" are now required in Chgo. The outside columns and rim joists are important but fail more slowly. From the AJ-C article, Mr. Bill Hope, whoever he is, seems to agree. DECK WARNING SIGNS Bill Hope, a certified home inspector, lists these scenarios: > Bolts connecting the deck to the house aren't connected to a solid piece of wood. "A lot of times when a deck fails, it's not the posts. It's the attachment to the house." 2 years later and that Chgo. horror is still sickening. http://www.cbsnews.com/stories/2003/12/ ... 8736.shtml

In a recent SI, there was a quote attributed to Mark Twain concerning how difficult it is to be brief and to the point, that said, "I am so sorry to send you a long letter, my friend, I did not have the time to send a short one." Or somethimng like that.

If you put foil on the bottom of the oven to catch pizza drippings or whatever, make sure it doesn't cover the air holes. I once, I mean, a friend once did this and the CO detector in my, I mean, my friend's son's room went beserk in about 10 minutes. Since it was a new appliance, he had a guy come out no charge and check it out. The guy said, "You idiot. You can't cover the air holes with foil." Dumb friend.

Gasoline and paraffin also worked well for waterproofing circus tents. http://www.hartfordhistory.net/circusfire.html

1986 John Feier and Gilbert Hutchings, "Carpentry and Building Constructuion"

I was able to correct a seriously sagging ceiling by jacking it up fairly level and putting in a strong back after the fact. It worked. Download Attachment: 100_4782.JPG 503.32 KB

The house is 2 years old. Grading was fine. I didn’t check the anchorage of the sill plate. The basement was “Lâ€

I found no signs that it had moved. I believe it was poured out of plumb.

Would a poured foundation with no cracks or bulges about 8" thick leaning inward about 1/4" per foot be cause for consulting a structural engineer?

What's the reference that this is a requirement? With a gas dryer, it might present combustion and draft issues.

I went to the library and looked over the 2006 Chicago Building Code Fire-Resistive Requirements and could find no mention of fire rated door requirements between residential dwelling and public halls. (It is required in business, mercantile and storage buildings) All new and existing residential buildings exceeding 4 stories require self-closing doors, though. Who would have thunk?