allseason

Good luck.

That's what I had also mentioned. Also, a 3/4 inch roofing nail going through a dimensional shingle likely won't have enough bite in the decking to ensure a solid connection.

If it makes any difference keep in mind that it's 15 - 20 nails out of how many that were applied. It could be that he had a few longer nails in his pouch.

Can you post some pictures? If you are looking up and seeing the roof decking (sheathing) and rafters only, the only thing between you and the shingles, then you would expect to see roofing nails as they need to completely penetrate the decking. It could also be where they missed the rafters while nailing a new deck (sheathing) on the roof if the nails are close to the rafters.

And I thought NJ was rough, they eliminated the sketch/map years ago. If someone is providing a WDI inspection why the f--k wouldn't they charge a fee for it? One of the issues that ticks off the licensed applicators in NJ is HI's giving away the WDI inspections, and the fact that they might not have a WDI pesticide applicators license. I don't include the WDI inspection in the home inspection and that is clearly stated in my pre inspection agreement. Also in the PIA I have a paragraph regarding a WDI inspection should they request one. If I see WDI evidence in a building while doing a home inspection and I am not doing a WDI inspection I can and will tell them there is evidence of WDI and recommend a licensed applicator perform an inspection. If they ask me what it is specifically I tell them that I am not there in that capacity due to the fact that it now changes the PIA/contract, oh, and they are not paying me for it.

Marc, Sounds like they have a strong lobby. Again, it sucks when you know it's there but can't say anything.

I have not seen any residentially in NJ in the 4x8 or 4x10 sheets. Have seen clapboard siding though (Hardi Plank, etc.) Sounds like the same basic material. The fault if any usually lies in the application, not the material.

As much as I hate to say it this may be a case where one would say "it appears that the damage is being caused or has been caused by insect infestation, call a blah blah blah". I'm sure it must be frustrating for someone who knows the cause and yet cannot reveal it. It doesn't work that way in Jersey, anyone can fill out an NPMA33 and it really pisses off a lot of the licensed applicators. I've had a 7B license (WDI) in NJ for over 9 years and still get the evil eye from the other applicators in recertification classes when they find out I'm an HI, even though I've performed just as many WDI inspections as they have, sometimes more.

I agree the retest should show lowred radon reading results right away. I would also recommend a long term test once you move in.

hmmm.

Likewise.

Very good news for New Jersey as we have the highest number of lawyers per capita in the U.S.

I heard a story recently about a group of law students who are sueing their law schools for not getting them the job placement they where promised. Talk about tigers eating their young.

Did it drain well or did it gurgle and make noise? And that is all new pvc so would not the s-trap be something to call out?

I was told that it is wrong because one side of a sink might not be used and that trap will dry out and then you have the nice aroma of sewer gas entering the area. With a single trap you don't have to worry about that... That could happen with any unused fixture. Think about a house with 9 bathrooms, how much water is getting into some of those traps?

Looks like and old cape. Likely there was an option when built to have no rooms, one room or two rooms in the attic/second floor. I have seen them with all three configurations and you will see the same style house throughout the block.

Yes.

If the lines continue from one sink to the other and then to the dwv then one trap only. I have a two basin sink and the waste comes through the middle of the wall in between the two sink basins. the two sink drains are attached to the stack with a y, so two traps.

Marc, Sure, it's a good idea, but every 3 years? WDI inspections maybe, water testing with private well, yes. The whole gig, not sure.

What's with the mini mag lite to view the attic and why does he always look like he's pushing out a hard bowel movement?

Keep in mind something when you want to change the anode rod. Measure the height of the tank, that is the approximate length of the rod, look up. Will you have enough clearance to remove the old rod or install the new rod? I have heard of replacement rods that are actually segmented and jointed so that you can bend them like a caterpillar, but you still need to remove the old one. I suggest the same fix whenever I come across this problem but the plumbers will not do it. Homeowners are welcome to give it a try but I would not recommend it to those with little mechanical ability.

That's only because the chicken s--t won't stick.

Hire an independent inspector who is working for you only. He will be your advocate. Do not rely on any past reports. There are inspectors on this site who can tell you what you need in that area better than I can. Also check with the state to find out about licensing of any inspectors you hire, whether it's the home inspection, wood destroying insect inspection, septic, etc.

My brain hurts

I recently had the same situation in a vacant house and have encountered it many times in the past, sulfides reacting with the sacrificial magnesium anode rod. It does not go away by itself and the repair you will get from just about any plumber is to replace the water heater. They will not drain the tank along with replacing the magnesium anode rod as this is to labor intensive or they don't want to bother. It is likely cheaper to: Replace the tank. My client called three plumbers and all said the same thing. And I don't think that the plumbers are lazy or uninformed. It is cheaper to replace the tank when you consider the labor rates.