allseason

Halon in 1957?

Maybe, not on the label though, that's the concern-carbon tet.

I found two of these yesterday in a house built in 1957. Does anyone know what's inside? I'm concerned about toxic chemicals being emmited and proper disposal. Otherwise it's pretty cool. Click to Enlarge 16.52 KB

I have daffodils that are 4-6 inches tall allready, warm soil temps trigger these events.

Very cool. For some reason I went right to Prison Design, past life maybe.

That's Emo shit, not Goth shit.

I actually saw the pour in place on This Old House years ago and thought is was a really good method, used on unlined brick chimneys. I heard later information on their lack of ability to fill bad mortar joints in the brick. They have got to be more expensive than a stainless steel liner. You need a concrete pump to reach the top of the chimney and then vibrate the material down the chimney. If you already have a clay liner that is not fallling into the bottom of the chimney I would agree with the SS liner. I put one in my block with terra cotta liner chimney when I converted from oil boiler (original 1957) to gas in 2000. Works well and under 2K for the SS liner-uninsulated-interior chimney.

Does anyone know the date codes for Fujitsu mini split A/C systems? Serial #ACN003515. I'm guessing 2000 as there was another one with the same 00 at beginning of the numeric portion.

That sounds like the deal, if the slab floated free of the foundation you would have a uniform line of settlement, as seen, with no divets. And due to the divets is looks like the slab is going down, not the foundation moving up. Chalk lines are still visible on the foundation wall where the floor height was originally meant to be. Doesn't look like a structural issue.

I've already let them know that I am not willing to take the chance and used Mike's recommendation that the seller can make good. The buyer wanted me to put in the need for a $10k escrow to cover the three units if they should fail (installed 2002) to provide adequate cooling when needed. I told them that that is the attorney's job. They informed me that the attorney told them to tell me to put that in the final report. I said no.

Well said, I agree. What I have heard locally is not to run the system unless there has been three or more days of temps 60-65.

I inspected a house last Thursday, outdoor temps around 20-30 degrees. Unable to test A/C systems due to cold. Today the buyer says wants to run the units tomorrow, temps today in northern NJ around 50-55. Tomorrow will be the same. The seller has given permission to test the systems. Will there be any risk to damaging the comp/cond units or foaming the oil? Still seems too cool out. My feeling has been over 60 for at least three days.

The way I see it is that I tell them to install a guardrail on the wall. If they don't and someone gets hurt then they were forewarned. Even though there is no walkway on the right side it is an access to the rear yard as there is a fence and gate on that side.

The garage floor is at the same level as the bottom of the door. The existing step is on a landing allready. Basement steps, landing, step down into hallway from where I took the picture. By the time you redesign everything and replace the tile you could pay for a new door and install three times over.

Trough drain at the base of the driveway into a sump pit in the garage, another set of issues. Snow, ice and inclines are a way of life. Sub-terranean garages have been around for a long time. It's the way to fit a garage when you can't meet property line setbacks. I wouldn't do it, doesn't mean someone else can't.

Not enough room for a landing. I guess they'll have to dent the side of the Lexus with the new door.

I meant required to replace needed in my OP. I can't find a referance but it makes sense anyway so I am telling them to have rails installed. While I was at the property a young relative was walking along the top of the wall near the sidewalk and holding the railing at the higher portions. That was enough to make the call. It's like falling into the deep end of the pool, with no water.

Is a garage entry door into a finished room required to open into the finished area or is it permitted to open into the garage? The problem is a step in the finished area beneath the door. If they reverse the door it will not open over the step. Click to Enlarge 34.81 KB

Only during the first few milliseconds before someone falls over the edge. All the rest of the time, it would just sit there doing nothing. required

Today I inspected a house with the garage in the basement. There are masonry brick veneered retaining walls on each side of the driveway. The rest of the property is level. At one wall there is a railing at the top due to a sidewalk to the front entry. On the other side of the driveway at the top of the other wall is a turf area, no walkways. The wall is 7'6"high from the base of the garage entry to the top and 22" above grade at the top where the turf area meets it. Is a railing needed at the top of the this section of wall? Click to Enlarge 33.5 KB

The water in my town is really hard. Cheap white vinegar works very well for the coffee maker and the stainless steel interior of the dishwasher. You need to let it sit a while, or work it a bit with a soft toothbrush. Good and cheap.

Aye,Happy New Year!

Anyone going to Phoenix for the ASHI gig?

It's a saddle fitting. Not allowed in most places, they leak.

You need to use the right kind of mortar based on the age of the house. If you us a portland based mortar where a lime based exists it will cause problems in the softer bricks.