Jim Katen

I guarantee you have multiple problems. You've been told wrong. Weepholes do help to equalize pressure, but their primary purpose is to let water out from behind the wall. However, they're absolutely useless in that regard unless they're paired with through-wall flashing just below the weep course. Without the flashing, water running down the back of the bricks won't know to go out the weepholes. Oh yes, adding weepholes almost always makes the problem worse since the drill usually penetrates the building paper behind the brick. The lack of pitch below the window is a big problem. It should be pitched at least 15 degrees. Cracked bricks are unimportant as are minor flaws in the mortar. With brick veneer, we just count on the fact that water will penetrate the brick and run down the backside of the veneer. There's nothing in particular wrong with the foundation ledge extending past the brick. However, if this is an indication that the brick was set too far back, in contact with the wall, (without the required one-inch space) then that's a great big problem. What's that stuff that your finger is holding back at the foundation ledge? An attempt at through wall flashing? From your description and pictures, I'd say it's time to strip off the brick and start over. On the bright side, those bricks will make some fine looking garden paths. - Jim Katen, Oregon

Commercial duplex? Are you sure? Most duplexes I see are residences and are governed by the residential code. As for the firewall, depends on how old the building is. You'd have to do research to come up with a definitive answer. I believe it's fine to use the conduit for grounding in that application. If I learn that I'm wrong, I'll post a correction. - Jim Katen, Oregon P.S. You might want to stop capitalizing "bus" and start spelling it with one "s".

That's damn good advice no matter where it came from. What a load of touchy-feely, new age bull poop. It sounds like whoever said that watched a few too many episodes of Kung Fu. I'm amazed that the same person gave you those two particular pieces of advice. I don't suppose his initials are AWB? I'm sure your sister's a great gal, but seeing as she's currently working for the dark side, I wouldn't put too much stock in her advice. On the other hand, people sometimes prejudge you based entirely on your cost. They figure that, if you're more expensive than everyone else, you must be better. Hey Sis, you ever think of that? Huh? Huh? HUH? You might have to do that, but first I propose you try an experiment. Calculate how much you need to charge based on your instructor's first piece of advice. Then add $100 to it. See how it goes. If it doesn't go well, and you feel that you're losing too much business because of your fee, then start handing out $50 discounts to past & present military personel, members of AARP, employees of your area's largest employer, people with brown eyes, etc. If that still does't work out, you can always fall back on the weasel fees that Sis advocates. The worst thing that can happen is that you'll develop a reputation for being too expensive. Later, if you lower your prices, people will think they're getting an expensive inspector for a low price. - Jim K

No, it needn't. A panel is not an "outlet." - Auntie Jim Katen, Oregon

There are different types of compressors. A scroll compressor can slug liquid refrigerant all day and suffer no damage. If you try that with a piston compressor you can damage it very quickly. However the refrigerant in the system is still gaseous at 65 degrees, it condenses at closer to 40 degrees. So, with piston compressors, 65 degrees is a reasonable cutoff point if you want about a 15 degree safety margin. (Unless the compressor is equipped with a crankcase heater, as many are.) No. Heat pumps (and many air conditioners) have crankcase heaters that keep the compressor warm so concerns about liquid refrigerant shouldn't be an issue with them unless power to the outdoor unit has been off. If you aren't certain about the type of compressor or the presence of a working crankcase heater then yes, it's a good, conservative, safe cutoff temperature. Also, at least some of the manufacturers caution against running the unit at temperatures below 65 degrees. Just keep telling them what you've been telling them; running the AC when it's cold out might hurt the machine. Also, in your first paragraph, you said that the clients want to know the condition of the system. Running the system when it's cold out will tell you only a little of that. To really judge the condition of the system in cold weather, someone's going to have to block off portions of that outdoor coil with pieces of plywood or blankets or the Sunday paper while reading the system pressures. I'm guessing that, as a home inspector, you don't want to go there. - Jim Katen, Oregon

Not effectively. Nor can you search it. There's an index but you can't, for instance, search for a particular term. The scuttlebutt on this is that it's NFPA's way of averting the possibility of a lawsuit. (Freedom of information and all that.) - Jim Katen

You're right. Some vinyls do this when exposed to heat. In addition to heating registers, I've seen it happen under refrigerators and along sliding glass doors when there's a heavy curtain in front of them that creates a hot area between the curtain and the glass. I've also noticed that some vinyls turn yellow from extended contact with latex-backed throw rugs. - Jim Katen, Oregon

I'd advise treading carefully when condemning off-brand breakers. Sometimes, it's not a violation. If a breaker manufacturer pays for it, Underwriters Laboratories will test and *classify* one manufacturer's breakers for use in another manufacturer's panel. These breakers are known, not surprisingly, as "classified breakers."? From both a safety and a code perspective, these breakers are perfectly acceptable to use in the panels for which they're listed. When you buy them, the breakers come with a long list of panels that are acceptable to put them in. Check out the UL guide for these breakers at http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/template/LISEXT/1FRAME/showpage.html?name=DIXF.GuideInfo&ccnshorttitle=Circuit+Breakers,+Molded-case,+Classified+for+Use+in+Specified+Equipment&objid=1074081964&cfgid=1073741824&version=versionless&parent_id=1073 Cutler Hammer, for instance, makes some particular classified breakers that UL says are acceptable to put in GE, Siemens, Murray, Thomas & Betts, Square D (both Homeline and QO) and Crouse Hinds panels. (Note to Chris: Not all Cutler Hammer breakers are classified as compatible with Square D, only some of them.) Check them out at http://www.eatonelectrical.com/unsecure ... 04001E.PDF As for warranties, every panel manufacturer, it seems, has similar language warning of the dire consequences that will result if another manufacturer's breaker is used in their panel. The most curious of these is Cutler Hammer. (We make breakers that are classified for use in practically every other panel out there, but if you use someone else's breaker in our panel, our warranty is void!) Talk about cheeky. The thing about all of this warranty voiding is that it may not be legal. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Acthttp://www.ftc.gov/bcp/conline/pubs/buspubs/warranty.htm#Magnuson-Moss specifically prohibits a manufacturer from requiring the use of their own replacement parts when safe and effective alternatives are available from other manufacturers. I suppose that, to know for sure, this will someday have to be tested in court. I'm not holding my breath. - Jim Katen, Oregon

There could have been an arc with enough resistance to prevent the breaker from tripping. - Jim Katen, Oregon

Well, it's a longshot, but what about that regulator vent? Nah, never mind. - Jim Katen, Oregon

Mike, For most circuits, that's true. And your object lesson is a great way of communicating that to customers. However, in the case of an AC compressor, it isn't accurate. With these circuits, the overcurrent protection comes from the thermal switch in the motor, not the fuses or breakers. They're only there to protect against faults. As Brian already pointed out, there isn't a whole heck of a lot of difference in fault protection between differently sized breakers. We should certainly be recommending that fuses and/or breakers match the data plate requirements. But in this particular case, it has nothing to do with wires overheating. If a customer or realtor asked me why the fuse or breaker has to conform, I'd tell them, "Because the equipment's UL listing requires it." If they asked what Bad Thing would happen if they didn't conform, I'd bring up the AC equipment warranty issue. - Jim Katen, Oregon

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To Norm & Jerry Peck, thanks for the chart. To everyone else, thanks for your thoughts on this topic. Since I believe that all of the participants have expressed their views adequately, I'm now locking this thread. - Jim Katen, Electrical Forum Moderator

Changes in the code reflect changes in our understanding of safety. When new safety products like GFCIs and AFCIs are introduced it takes many years to determine exactly what they are and are not capable of and where they can be best deployed. We went through that learning curve with GFCIs and, though it took many years, we've ended up with reliable devices that provide good protection in the places we now require them. We're only just beginning that trek with AFCIs. The product isn't what it should be yet, so introducing them slowly makes sense till we can establish their real benefit. - Jim Katen, Oregon

Why is anyone arguing about $1.50 worth of fuses? Now hang on a minute. If the installed fuses are too small, the worst thing that can happen is a nuisance trip. It'll give the homeowner the chance to install the proper fuse. It seems to me that the equipment and conductors are amply protected. What's the big deal? Good luck. You're more likely to get a serious case of the corporate Cha-Cha. When you ask a manufacturer for this, they start dancing. Better to just photocopy their installation instructions. If you're consistent about it, and if you're right every time, your efforts will eventually have an effect. - Jim Katen, Oregon

Sounds like he's been breathing too many NASCAR fumes. Unless you're a heavy smoker, you aren't going to be exhaling CO. Perhaps he meant CO2? Any strap-on respirator will hold some of your exhaled air within the mask. In my opinion, the volume is so small compared to the volume of your lungs, that it isn't an issue. I can't imagine the CO2 level building up to any significant level. Shop for a model that feels good on *your* face. One that fits well on O'Handley's face might not fit so well on mine. Use p-100 cartridges. If you have a beard, a silicone model will work better than the others, though there'll still be some bypass. If you have to go into nasty crawlspaces, use a full-face model. - Jim Katen

It's pretty clear to me that it isn't necessary under G2411.1 [NEC 250.104(b)]. It may be necessary to comply with 680.26 (Equipotential Bonding), but it seems unlikely. If the gas pipe is connected to the pool heater and the heater is bonded, I don't see how a voltage potential can ever be established. - Jim Katen

Well, almost all. It doesn't answer the question, "Why on God's green earth would a home inspector need one of these things?" - Jim Katen, Oregon

I agree with your interpretation. If the gas piping is connected to a grounded appliance, you shouldn't need further bonding. For perspective on this look to the source. You'll find it in NEC 250.104(B). It's a little more windy than the IRC version, but it makes the same point. Interestingly, it's followed by a fine print note (fpn) that reads thus: Bonding all piping and metal ducts within the premises will provide additional safety. Perhaps this is where the compulsion to add redundant bonding originates? - Jim Katen, Oregon

Yes. That's they're only function. It's just a different style of metering. You might have seen it before and now known it because the CTs are usually in boxes that are sealed shut. You were right to tell the seller and buyer to stay out. There's no overcurrent protection in there. I once had a 5 year old kid open one of these during an inspection. Fortunately, it was full of wasps and he shut it and ran away immediately. The presence of the wasps may have saved his life. - Jim Katen, Oregon

What you've got there are current transformers. They produce a small amount of current in direct proportion to current flow in the service entrance wires. (Think: clamp-on amp meter.) They are not stepping down voltage to feed the service. That is, there's nothing above 240v in that box. I see this type of meter arrangement fairly often on larger houses. Sometimes the CTs are in a box, like the one in your pictures, and sometimes they're mounted outside on the the weatherhead. In that case, they'll look like ceramic dounuts around the drip loops. The box in your picture should have had a utiliy company seal on it. Otherwise, it looks fine to me. - Jim Katen, Oregon

Well, it was an attempt at humor. I guess it was unsuccessful. It was after Ideal took over that we started hearing about these units overheating, smoking and giving erratic readings on the same receptacle from one minute to the next. Kinda reminded me of FPE. Does that explanation make it seem more humorous? - Jim Katen, Oregon

If they were composition shingles, someone was serving you up a steaming heap of carp. I'd have called them on it. And I wouldn't have settled for a friggin' letter either. I'd want to see documentation that was published *before* they cooked up their lame excuse. That said, I think it's a bad idea for us to be walking on clay tile, old concrete tile, slate and some types of metal roofs. You need a ladder & hooks for those. - Jim Katen, Oregon

I've been hearing lots of complaints about Suretest equipment lately. They seemed to start a few years ago about the time that Suretest was taken over by FPE. - Jim Katen, Oregon

Yeah. I'm voting for the chair too. I'll bet the gearbox is leaking. Park it over some paper towels & see what happens. Either that or fashion a diaper for the gearbox. - Jim Katen, Oregon