fyrmnk Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Hi all, looking for a good detail on properly flashing a stone clad masonry chimney. Did a 2.2 mil house that was newly remodeled/built from the ground up. The roofer just surface fastened and sealed the flashing to the stone on the chimneys and of course it is already pulling away and gapped. I recommended removing the existing flashing on all the chimneys and properly cutting it into the masonry instead of just surface fastening, but haven't had much luck finding a good picture of a proper install except for ones that have access to the block. I couldn't see below the lip of the flashing to tell if they held the stone short of the roof line to where they can make the cut into just the blocks. Basically looking for a diagram for going directly into the stone in the event it isn't stopped short of the roof line. Can grooves be cut directly into the stone in the event the block isn't accessible? Will try to post pics soon. Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Jones Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Kevin, See if this helps. http://www.chimneyflashing.info/Stone-C ... shing.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyrmnk Posted June 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Thanks Robert, I have seen that one, but it still involves going into the block itself, which I'm not certain will be an option. It very well may be, but until they pull off the existing flashing I won't be able to tell for sure, so was wondering about cutting directly into the stone with the counter flashing, similar to cutting into brick. Thanks again. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyrmnk Posted June 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Here's a couple pics. Click to Enlarge 63.29 KB Click to Enlarge 65.91 KB Click to Enlarge 92.78 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Yep, that's a mess. Not sure how I'd go at that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bain Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I don't see many shake roofs. Is it typical to put wood shingles on saddles? Clearly, the code-mandated 3" for flashings won't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mgbinspect Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 You know, if it was me, I'd always carefully calculate where the flashing turns into the chimney and lay up with brick or block until that moment - laying the counterf-flashing right into the brick under the stone. But that's just me. There's really no other easy or pretty way to flash stone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill Kibbel Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Install a full soldered-seam metal cricket behind the chimney.Install a counter flashing over the steps, let into a reglet that is cut into the stone. http://www.oldhouseweb.com/blog/your-ne ... ng-reglet/Are those limestone or sandstone? I'm concerned about the mortar recipe (and the application of the mortar). id="left"> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyrmnk Posted June 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 Thanks for the replies. The reglet cut in is what I recommended, just haven't seen it directly into the stone, just the block below the stone then starting stone above it. I assumed that would be okay, but just wanted to make sure there wasn't something I was overlooking with doing that. It looked like limestone, it is all brand new. Looks like they direct adhered it to the block, but couldn't see how far down the stone went in this application with the flashing over it. The rest of the house had stone veneer with a drainage plane and weeps, which was actually done nicely. But boy, the roof sure was lacking effort. There are a lot of wood roofs around here, just not usually done new anymore since so many have burned off in my area with lightning and wind, as well as spreading from one house to another. Took quite the scurrying and "Spiderman" efforts to make it all the way up with the pitches (and a lot of looking around to see if anyone saw the awkward moments), but figured there would be some issues with the size of this roof and house. Thanks again. Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted June 21, 2011 Report Share Posted June 21, 2011 I'm concerned about the mortar recipe (and the application of the mortar). [/left] Yes. It's a mess. Looks like bag mortar smeared on, with lots of capillary edges. Way to go, Spidey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 nice effort and good question. The real issue is not the fact it is wrong, but how to remedy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 nice effort and good question. The real issue is not the fact it is wrong, but how to remedy Deconstruct and redo. OT - OF!!! M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terence McCann Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Was the home new(er) Kevin? The mortar looks like it was applied by a 2 year old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyrmnk Posted June 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Was the home new(er) Kevin? The mortar looks like it was applied by a 2 year old. The original structure was 40 years old, but it has been completely remodeled from the ground up and had the additions to it. Chimneys were all new. Been under construction for 2 years. It was billed as new from the ground up (foundation remained). Unfinished basement was 3400 sq. ft' with about 7000 sq ft' living area on two floors. Thanks, Kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted June 22, 2011 Report Share Posted June 22, 2011 Originally posted by Les nice effort and good question. The real issue is not the fact it is wrong, but how to remedy Deconstruct and redo. OT - OF!!! M. [/quote Exactly. No question, it's a do-over. Of course, that'll never happen. Cut it and flash it as best one can, then budget for the rebuild in about 5 years. Which means someone else will smear more bag mortar on it when they go to sell, and call it "tuckpointed". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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