John Dirks Jr Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 The overall condition of the shingles on this roof was not all that bad. I gave them at least 5 yrs remaining life. Obviously, the valley work where the porch roof was installed (at a later date) looks unprofessional. What would be the minimal involvement in getting this corrected? How far up each slope would shingles need to be removed before re-installing a decent valley? Click to Enlarge 47.55 KB Click to Enlarge 80.87 KB Click to Enlarge 66.51 KB Click to Enlarge 65.69 KB Click to Enlarge 80.08 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Meiland Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 What's with the black outline around the ridge vent? Is that cor-a-vent exposed because the ridge caps are too small? That's a couple days of work to repair--a long day with a helper, two if alone. Assuming nothing else was wrong (like the ridge vent or the skylights) I would strip both sides of each valley one shingle wide, possible a little wider depending on what's found underneath, and then re-install it either as a cut or metal valley. It is really painstaking to tuck new shingles under existing and get them fastened. It's around a couple thousand dollars, and if it goes to hell.... more. If there are only five years left, there's a strong argument for a new roof. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Thanks for your response and assessment David. I have no idea why they even put a ridge vent on there. Probably to charge more money. It isn't even needed since roof is covering an exterior screened porch and the ceiling is vaulted pretty much up to the roof deck. Airspace gap is the width of the rafter I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 The remodeler cut corners. It you're going to recommend repair, I'd suggest remove all shingles within 20 inches of the center of the valley (3 foot width plus a little)and do it over. Follow all recommendations of the shingle manufacturer, in regards to both shingles and flashing. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Kogel Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 I see they cut some and wove some in the thrd or 4th pic. [:-party] I wouldn't feel much confidence in any of that addition roof. I will bet they fudged on the underlay as well. Who knows how many nails per shingle and where they placed them. To repair, they need to bend the old shingles up to nail below, as David described it, mucho trouble that might still lead to leaks. I would tell them what the roofer will tell them, tear it off, sorry about that. They can cut the large side, but it won't get renailed all that well. A roofer wants to guarantee his work, tough call there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StevenT Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Is the valley leaking (now)? If not, is the only reason you are recommending redoing it because it looks unprofessional? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Is the valley leaking (now)? If not, is the only reason you are recommending redoing it because it looks unprofessional? It's possible that leaks could be undetectable in the normal scope of a home inspection. Isn't that correct? Surely water can get under some of those shingles where it shouldn't. That can cause problems whether I can detect them at the time of the inspection or not. The poor installation details were described and it was recommended that a qualified roofer fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Amaral Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Sounds like the name of an album for a West Virginia country band.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Raymond Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Sounds like the name of an album for a West Virginia country band.. Or the sequel to Broke Back Mountain. Why did you only give it 5 years? The rain breaks are tight and the gloeocapsa staining isn't too bad. Based solely on your pics I wouldn't guess the cover to be much more than 10 years old. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 Why did you only give it 5 years? I gave them "at least 5 years". The owner moved in in '93 and those were the shingles on the main part, not including the porch addition. So, they are already 21 years old. Albeit, they were in good shape for that age. Good granular adhesion but beginning to get a little brittle. The pipe collars were totally shot. Owner had wrapped duct tape around them and it was worn away too. Click to Enlarge 84.88 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Raymond Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I'd like to know who made them. I have never seen 20 year old 3 tabs look that good. I ran out of good weather to finish the roof on my place. The best of the 18 year old IKO 3 tabs still on it have rain breaks over an inch wide. The worst have around 40% granule loss and crunch like potato chips when you walk on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Baird Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I know your intention is good, John, but I would not prescribe the remedy unless i was going to do the work. I, as inspector, would point out that the work is very sloppy and recommend a roofer do the head scratching and the work. As others said, if there is only a guess of five yrs on all of it, may be better to get the larger estimate anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I know your intention is good, John, but I would not prescribe the remedy unless i was going to do the work. I, as inspector, would point out that the work is very sloppy and recommend a roofer do the head scratching and the work. As others said, if there is only a guess of five yrs on all of it, may be better to get the larger estimate anyway. That is exactly what I did Jim. I started the discussion to see what the forum members opinions were on how this would be fixed. The combined experience here is a great resource and learning from members gives me good general information to share with clients. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted March 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I'd like to know who made them. I have never seen 20 year old 3 tabs look that good. I ran out of good weather to finish the roof on my place. The best of the 18 year old IKO 3 tabs still on it have rain breaks over an inch wide. The worst have around 40% granule loss and crunch like potato chips when you walk on them. I have seen a few other cases where 20 year old shingles looked this good. Every time its always the ones colored in the red and brown shades. I don't know if the color plays a role or not. Just noting my experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Maxwell Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 I have also noticed that the lighter tan or brown shingles last longer here. I suspect it is due to the color but not sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inspector57 Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Is it common for the other members here to estimate a remaining life? I stay away from placing any number of remaining years life, age, etc. during my reports. If a roof is toast or showing signs of age then I report as such, just no estimated life. Roofs hear don't appear to last nearly as long as what I have seen others report from the more northern areas with the roofs here generally doing well to last to the end of the stated warranty. A cheap 3 tab shingle gets about 15 years, an architectural laminate style getting about 30 if your lucky. Of course with frequent hail and wind lots of roofs never get to the end of normal life before getting replaced. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Kogel Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 Is it common for the other members here to estimate a remaining life? I stay away from placing any number of remaining years life, age, etc. during my reports. If a roof is toast or showing signs of age then I report as such, just no estimated life. Roofs hear don't appear to last nearly as long as what I have seen others report from the more northern areas with the roofs here generally doing well to last to the end of the stated warranty. A cheap 3 tab shingle gets about 15 years, an architectural laminate style getting about 30 if your lucky. Of course with frequent hail and wind lots of roofs never get to the end of normal life before getting replaced. If I give a estimated life, it is vague and verbal, not in writing. Also my verbal estimate always includes "I can't predict the future", sometimes followed by "If I could, I would be down at the horse track right now instead of here"."Leaks can develop at any time" is a written comment I use for an older roof. If the house is exposed to the weather," Check for wind damage after severe weather". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Posted March 4, 2014 Report Share Posted March 4, 2014 I sometimes do it if the remaining life is short and the covering remains able to serve. Otherwise, no. Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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