Chris Bernhardt Posted August 11, 2007 Report Share Posted August 11, 2007 Image Insert: 79.05 KB Shouldn't this stone veneer be flashed between it and the casing? This is brand new construction. Chris, Oregon Image Insert: 72.81 KB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Whitmore Posted August 11, 2007 Report Share Posted August 11, 2007 I can pull a code reference if you want, but I believe the wording is that flashing should be provided where dissimilar siding materials meet. My opinion is that this should qualify as a point where dissimilar siding materials meet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dirks Jr Posted August 11, 2007 Report Share Posted August 11, 2007 Maybe a piece of trim to cover the gap and sealed with caulk. Done neatly it would look good. It does look incomplete as it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottpat Posted August 11, 2007 Report Share Posted August 11, 2007 I would say that it is required. That is part of the building envelope, in a way. Was this the same all around the home or was it just at the garage? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Chew Posted August 11, 2007 Report Share Posted August 11, 2007 Yes to flashing. No to caulk. Caulk should not be used as a substitute for proper flashing. A joint that relies on caulk as the primary water barrier is a leak waiting to happen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted August 11, 2007 Report Share Posted August 11, 2007 Is that adhered stone, or real stone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted August 11, 2007 Report Share Posted August 11, 2007 Hi Kurt, It's lick 'n stick. I see that same cast stone all the time here. It would really look better with a piece of flashing at the horizontal transition, but I don't think the lack of one is going to make a difference. This stuff is like stucco - it's applied to a mud-wire lath base over paper and it's designed to drain. Even without the flashing, water simply runs past it and leaves the wall at the bottom as it's supposed to. OT - OF!!! M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bernhardt Posted August 12, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 If the scratch coat extends up under the casing then the casing is effectively counter flashing the scratch coat. Right? There might be a concern only if the scratch coat terminates at the transition don't you think? Chris, Oregon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 While it would look for finished and esthetically pleasing with some flashing there, the scratch coat doesn't need to extend up behind the casing. The point I was trying to make is that they don't really need to be flashed because, if they're installed properly, the wall will drain very well. OT - OF!!! M. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kurt Posted August 12, 2007 Report Share Posted August 12, 2007 You know, I can't ever recall having seen "lick & stick", and don't honestly know what it is. I know how real stone works (I live in a masonry city), but haven't the foggiest about this stuff.... Anyone got some brand names or links for me to look over? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottpat Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Originally posted by kurt You know, I can't ever recall having seen "lick & stick", and don't honestly know what it is. I know how real stone works (I live in a masonry city), but haven't the foggiest about this stuff.... Anyone got some brand names or links for me to look over? Here you go http://www.culturedstone.com/ Also this is a link to a diagram that just about covers everything that this post is about. http://www.culturedstone.com/technical/ ... etail4.asp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brian G Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 I put a bunch of it on my house when I built it. We like the look of stone, but didn't have budget for it. I twisted the arms of a few friends and family for help, and we put it up with only a couple of very basic instruction sheets (I didn't even have internet at the time). I actually enjoyed it, except for what the mortar did to my fingers over the days we were working on it. That stuff is tougher than you might think. Just 6 months after moving in we had a helluva storm come through. A 90 foot pine tree out back went down into the roof of the master suite, finally stopped by the top plate of one of the lick & stick walls. Two pieces were knocked off; maybe three or four busted. That was it. I was impressed. Brian G. Rockin' the House [:-party] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Kurt, It performs about the same as stucco. Two layers of 60-minute paper, some wire lath, mortar and then the stones are pushed into the mortar. The whole thing is supported temporarily on a wood cleat attached to the side of the house. Sometimes they'll bolt a steel anchor to the wall to support it. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Originally posted by kurt You know, I can't ever recall having seen "lick & stick", and don't honestly know what it is. I know how real stone works (I live in a masonry city), but haven't the foggiest about this stuff.... Anyone got some brand names or links for me to look over? Think hardcoat stucco with really big aggregate. - Jim Katen, Oregon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Lehman Posted August 17, 2007 Report Share Posted August 17, 2007 So where is the weep screed? If it is just like stucco, is the weep screed also required? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stuccoman Posted August 17, 2007 Report Share Posted August 17, 2007 Another install link. http://www.robinsonbrick.com/products/r ... lGuide.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Katen Posted August 17, 2007 Report Share Posted August 17, 2007 Originally posted by Martin Lehman So where is the weep screed? If it is just like stucco, is the weep screed also required? I don't know about "required" but Owens Corning shows it here: http://www.culturedstone.com/technical/ ... etail1.asp - Jim Katen, Oregon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bernhardt Posted August 17, 2007 Author Report Share Posted August 17, 2007 In the IRC what does this stuff fall under: Exterior Plaster or Stone and masonry veneer? If it is indeed stucco then shouldn't it terminate 2" above the pavement? Chris, Oregon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hausdok Posted August 17, 2007 Report Share Posted August 17, 2007 No Chris, It isn't stucco, it is like stucco in the way it is installed on a bed of mortar, on lath, over two layers of paper. I think you could call it a "type" of masonry veneer. I think the stuff in your pictures will drain well even without a weep screed. However, when the joints are struck and smoothed there needs to be a way for moisture to get out as with masonry veneer or stucco. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brandon Whitmore Posted September 4, 2008 Report Share Posted September 4, 2008 Shouldn't this stone veneer be flashed between it and the casing? This is brand new construction. http://www.culturedstone.com/technical/ ... etail4.asp Here's Ownen's Corning's best practice detail for this installation showing flashing at this area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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