Chad Fabry

I just replaced a roof with that underlayment. It was horrible. There were bits of it flying all over the yard- it added 10 hours to the clean up time. It also added huge risk - it isn't stapled down so when you strip the shingles and step on a piece it's like stepping on a ball bearing. Clearly, it's installed while the roof deck is perfectly horizontal.

Where did you get a picture of my seller's agent?

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I figured someone might be interested in this endeavor. I made some sample pans and soldered them with a pair of 3 lb irons that were happy to be used again. It went smooth. Much easier than soldering 20 oz. copper. Still, using irons that were probably last used a hundred years ago is slow. When I first take them off the heat, they're too hot to hold a tinning and then once in use, they cool down before the next iron is ready. It's a slow process. I bought this-it should speed things up a bit. Click to Enlarge 60.54 KB This is one of the rolls of terne. I cut it into pieces of 18 x24 Click to Enlarge 72.66 KB I scribed each piece on each side to mark the brake lines. Click to Enlarge 44.55 KB Then I cut off each corner about 1/16th in inside the the scribed intersection. You do this so the bent sides don't lap each other and so there's clearance to slide the pans together. Click to Enlarge 37.47 KB Then, on my box brake, I bent two adjacent sides one way and the other two adjacent sides the other way to make the pans. I cleaned the protective finish off before I bent the pans. Cleaning the protective finish off was the most time consuming part of the process Click to Enlarge 38.1 KB Click to Enlarge 35.06 KB Click to Enlarge 29.27 KB

yes, they're watermarked

Code check illustrated has about 400 graphics. It's a valuable resource.

Plumbing by John Sousa? Aside from the loop, the wyes and ells tees should not be lying on their sides. It's a mess.

There's a 1/4 inch per foot so yes, there's enough. But it's a balcony and I want a walking surface.

Soldered seam terne, like the soldered seam copper I did over my bay will be a very, very time consuming process. But now that you've made me feel guilt, I'll knock up a sample set of pans and solder them to see how well it goes.

Marc, Kurt and I would talk to each other like this even in person. We're blunt and our feeling aren't easily bruised. Or, are you saying we're irregular?

I'm not insulted. I was just giving you some advice on how to better communicate your thoughts. Now, back to finding some fiberglass trim stock.

What Kurt said. They should have put last course installed on the left on the right instead. That said, it's ugly but probably works OK.

I designed the roof. Then I built it. I designed it and built it with the intent of installing terne coated steel. Now I changed my mind. I cannot design the flashing or the system details for a system until I choose the system because all the different system details tend to vary a bit. I'll remove the siding and the roof decking and tweak out the corner boards so regardless of which product I choose, I'll be able to imbricate the layers to shed water and use the building's exterior fabric as my counter-flashing. I designed the decking to be anti splash so that the three roofs that spill onto the balcony can continue to do so with inflicting harm on the structure. I could put on some gutters, but concealing a 7 inch crown wasn't in the original design criteria. I like you Kurt... I think you know that but possibly, aside from me, you may be the best bet to place in the "Most Condescending" contest. Seriously, I plan things down to efficiencies in my arm's range of motion. So here I am, choosing a product so I can design the details.

Steven, Resin and mat are no problem. I used to buy resin in 55 gallon drums and mat by the 100 meter roll. I need the flashings. Kurt, you haven't shared what you know about mod bit that I do not know. I know that between me, my dad and my brother in-law we owned about 80,000 sf of it. I agree, it's an awesome product- I just think for this application there may be more durable, less pervious options to explore. Click to Enlarge 68.69 KB The balcony is 16 feet long on the side in view and 14 feet long on the other side. Both sections are four feet deep.

First, TPO has been around for about 25 years, not ten. I inspected an American Legion Hall with a 60 mil TPO roof that was installed in 1991 and it's still perfectly fine. Flexible, good surface and intact flashings. It's the reason I was leaning toward the product. I admit I am apprehensive about doing heat welded seams. I've installed acres of torch down mod bit. I'm really familiar with the product but it does deteriorate if it stays wet and I'm afraid there will be a two inch mulch layer of maple samaras between the deck and the roof. With EPDM, I always see the transition over and up the cant pulling away and stretched like a drum skin. And, with an L shaped balcony there'll be a seam pulling in shear. Tom, I paid $900 for the 26 gauge, terne and a couple boxes of clips. I'll sell it to you for your porch roof. Or, I'll die and it'll still be taking up floor space in my tool room and my kids will toss it in the trash. Steven, I have a fiberglass skill set and I just watched YouTube videos from some guy in England. (fixmyroofUK) I think that's the ticket for me. Do you know where I can buy the pre-made flashings?

I have a balcony on two sides of the tower in my home. It's had a peel and stick roof for the past few years (GAF Liberty) waiting for me to have the time to install a more permanent solution. I'll remove the current roofing and decking to the joists and start again. Originally I intended on using soldered seam terne coated steel and I have the steel and accessories in stock, but now I'm not convinced it's the best choice. Once roofed, I'll install a deck surface on sleepers. I'll integrate the guardrails to the deck assembly to avoid roof penetrations. The deck water proofing material will wrap up under the siding to act as flashing. I'm leaning toward fully adhered TPO or to the JM liquid applied membrane. Do any of you have a better solution?

I like the trim a lot. The newel posts, the columns and the three panel doors are a very nice touch. Nice job.

That's funny

What does one do to get rid of snakes?

My son bought me a Fenix UC 30 for my birthday. 960 Lumens, USB charging port, 18650 rechargeable battery included. Very small, powerful light throws a flood pattern, not a spot. Oh and it has a low charge indicator that goes on at 30% charge. Since January, I've gotten through every inspection except one w/o using a back up light

Pay someone to build your website. With rare exception, most self-built websites look cheesy and unprofessional. Call Mike Brown @ DevWave

Two of the three SE conductors are copper.

I just deleted his third post and locked his profile. Jerk.

As a fire marshal, I enter just-put-out burned homes. Often, it's clear what caused the fire- oily rags in the garage, bad wiring etc. The fire today was clearly caused by the large TV-giant hole in the floor below the TV and a burned out stair case behind the TV. The service panel also burned but the fire was contained inside the panel. Just before the fire, a car struck a pole with a pole mounted transformer and the lineman who was repairing the transformer noticed smoke coming from the home. The transformer served this house and three other homes on the street. Luckily, the owners were not at home. The four cats were not so lucky. What could have happened that sent a surge powerful enough to smoke the service panel and start the TV on fire? Tomorrow, I'm buying and installing a whole house surge protector.

Awesome.