Chad Fabry

It's crude brick expressionism.

It's crude brick expressionism.

I recall hearing that word from a leather elbow patched tweed jacketed pipe smoking ichthyologist, wearing Hush Puppie loafers. Erudition worn lightly, and with accompanying normal language, is the best kind. I like words people know. Otherwise, I'm the guy in the Hush Puppies. You're hilarious. You, quite possibly are the most ostentatious wordsmith I have ever communicated with, bar none. There is no shame in the elegant choice for best word for the purpose- we're not talking to third graders, we're talking to adults fully capable of looking up a word. I specifically remember learning ichthyologist from a BC comic strip by Johnny Hart. I learned erudite from, I think, you. As Les said:yer ass.

Yes, all WRB's and flashing should be "shingled" over anything below it. "On top" is sort of correct, but it's not precise. The shingling term better describes the method. Imbricated

You could probably punch your way into that house without wearing gloves. I'd probably use the word "mulch" somewhere in the narrative.

Yes, but I think there were some small ice tray compartments before then. I'll ask dad. I think sulfur dioxide was the common refrigerant at that time. I was thinking ammonia. It's a crap shoot. What's it smell like?

The first photo and the photo of the CMU both look like efflorescence. Do you have an establishing shot of the wall area around that "perimeter sill" photo?

Uponor.

Old growth pine may have been able to handle that abuse but predigested wood fibers from 10 year old sap wood sure won't. Like the osb webs from your recent post. Oof.

All the LVL's in the house were installed like this. Apparently nobody told the builder that wood beams are handled differently than steel beams. Click to Enlarge 34.36 KB

Call the landmark society in your area

My boiler on this issue begins: "According to the label on the panel..."

First, I'd find someone to stamp any repair. Why not enclose it and then include it as conditioned space on the interior?

7.5? Did you tell the instructor to F-off at 4:30?

Either. Exterior for facade and structural for masonry construction.

Luckily the wrong way pitch makes all the flue gas spill out from the hood so there's no danger of the Mylar catching fire.

When Bought my house it had a dirt floor with a channel from one side to the other where the water exited through a tile below the foundation. Three seasons a year you could go fly fishing in my basement. We excavated, tiled and installed a concrete floor and , improved the grade outside. It's now dry enough to store stuff on the floor.

Open a window.

The wattage of the elements isn't a factor. A calorie is a calorie.

220 will work. 150 or 180 will work faster and give the same results.

I use sealer on furniture and cabinets. Sealer sands beautifully and quickly. On difficult-to-sand projects like a chair or an entire kitchen it's worth its weight in gold. For floors though, I just sand between coats of finish. On floors where the wood is in good or better condition, I skip sanding between coats 1 and 2 and just sand between 2 and 3.

I get it. Funny stuff.

As usual, Bill is right ...1002.7 Trap setting and protection. Traps shall be set level with respect to the trap seal and, where necessary, shall be protected from freezing. and, 1002.4 Trap seals. Each fixture trap shall have a liquid seal of not less than 2 inches (51 mm) and not more than 4 inches (102 mm), or deeper for special designs relating to accessible fixtures.

For almost 20 years our daily driver was a 1920's Odin gas range. We still have it in our barn and I'm positive that it would go back to work tomorrow without complaint. It has a really small four-burner cook top that just isn't practical. When we remodeled our kitchen my choice was 30's O'Keefe & Merrit, 20's and 30's Chambers and some older Ropers and Norge models. My wife prevailed though and we have a 36 inch Blue Star. I love our big range and it has a couple 32k btu burners that boil 2 qts of water in about two minutes, a simmer burner that will coddle water at 210 degrees and a giant oven. Still.... if we did again again, I'd work harder for the vintage range.

I think it's one of the nicest, most robust assemblies ever built for the purpose.