Chad Fabry

Don't pander.

A PRV is a must. On a system with a low water shut off, the lack of an autofill becomes an early warning device to alert the operator that there's a leak somewhere. Clearly, I'd suggest installing an autofill. That said, three of my four boilers do not have one. I want to make sure that my post was clear. PRV means pressure RELEASE valve. The pressure reducing fill valve is a convenience, not a necessity. PRV's are essential.

A PRV is a must. On a system with a low water shut off, the lack of an autofill becomes an early warning device to alert the operator that there's a leak somewhere. Clearly, I'd suggest installing an autofill. That said, three of my four boilers do not have one.

I've seen that before. On the house where I saw it, I pinned the cause to leaking ductwork between the first and second storeys. Vapor drive. In my case the knee wall had lath and plaster on each side and the joist cavity was contiguous with the kneewall cavity.

When things are right, it needs only be done once every thirty years or so.

Good article, Jim. Thanks for sharing.

Beautiful. Wish I had a few.

That's horrible.

A Realtor would say, "Furnace operating at 115% of its listed capacity."

From the current NY Residential Code: R309.1 Opening protection. Openings from a private garage directly into a room used for sleeping purposes shall not be permitted. Other openings between the garage and residence shall be equipped with 3/4-hour fire-protection-rated assemblies equipped with self-closing devices.

Tympanum? aren't they triangular? I would have called it simply a medallion located[/] in the tympanum. I see that shape and style more in federal houses than in greek revival and more often as a niche on the wall or in the center of a ceiling. edit: it does fill the entire area know as the tympanum, but I have this image of a triangle when I see the word.

I figured this thread was going to be about a Muslim water heater.

Marc, I did a couple seams where I really laid on the lead but it's a waste of product. Draw the solder into the joint and use enough so that the bottom puddle sweeps up to the top sheet and that's enough. I watched videos where the installer went back after the joint was done and using a cooler iron, he left the bird tracks that are consistent with TIG welding It's a real chore keeping the iron clean enough to use. I had to stop every 8-12 inches and rub the tip on a bar of sal ammoniac and then dip it in Ruby Fluid. On a side note, I had to re-build my eleven year old balcony before I even started. When I first built it, rain was coming so I laid two coats of oil based paint on the OSB deck and installed a wall to deck flashing - just to get it through the week until I could roof it. The following week I installed Liberty roofing (really gooey two- part peel and stick) over the deck and the flashing, then I installed another wall-to-deck flashing over everything. Since then, water has been hitting the overhanging edge of the first flashing and wicking around through capillary action. The OSB moved the water 7 feet horizontally. The decking was ruined, the framing was ruined. I always install drip edge on the rakes but for whatever reason, I omitted it on my own house. It was a three-day, two-thousand dollar mistake.

Finally got some time to do this. I struggled with the soldering at first but realized that the bars I was using were cast and they had a bunch o shit cast into them. I had had other 1/2 lb bars that were extruded and they worked fine - 60/40. Working the pans for the field, I could probably make and install 75 sq feet a day. On a job like this where 50% of the pans are easy and the balance are made-to-fit, I could manage just 50sq feet a day. Measure, make the pan, clean the mill finish, flux, install the cleats after you flux them, flux the seams, smash the seams, clean and flux again, then solder. I have the counter flashing left to do. I'll slide it under the felt and bring it to the first solder seam below the cant strip. I clean the mill finish with MEK or laquer thinner, then I use zinc choride for flux, then lead based solder with an open flame iron. The most one could hope for is is 150 sf a day- I guess I understand why the practice and even Follansbee have fallen into memories. Click to Enlarge .jpg].jpg] 35.77 KB Click to Enlarge 104.35 KB Click to Enlarge 41.18 KB Click to Enlarge 38.4 KB

The colony will die at the end of the season and you'll be left with a bunch of nesting material and dead bugs in the wall. Sometimes a secondary infestation of mites moves in, but there's little other downside to leaving the nest in place after its dead. Does the colony repopulate? I had a three-season infestation in my shed in the spaces between air dried lumber. edit: The queens overwinter with enough eggs to make a new colony, and a few new queens. Just kill the queen.

That's funny

They stay. At some point they'll turn on you and there will be no angst in your soul when you commit genocide. First they start hitting you in the face, head and ears. That is followed by searing pain as each one stings you multiple times and then for good measure, they actually bite off chunks of your flesh. They are truly assholes.

Either a big ass spark or a loud scream from the first floor bathroom.

H=hazard, like dynamite storage facilities.

I don't think there is anything with regards to residential construction. Out-swing doors do not work in the winter in NY

In the first photo, the brick is broken. Cletus was probably too enthusiastic setting it to the line. There is no crack above or below the brick, the mortar joints are intact. It's really just two small bricks. In the second and third photos, the surface is crazed, there's no visible cracks above or below the crazing and no sign anywhere that there's been some structural movement to crack the bricks. The look may be intended or it may be a defect. I'd advise my client to contact the manufacturer to ascertain what the bricks are supposed to look like. Or, I'd be so shocked from the overall ugly that I'd forget to mention the condition.

It sure makes it hard to know who to root for. Asshole 1, or Asshole 2.

Tap Cons are not a rated fastener for structural connections.

I ask the agent to work them.

It may be arguable that that's a wet location. On another note, I'm sure that window glass is tempered.