Bob White

OK. I laughed out loud on that one....

Wow. The cut angles of the siding planks and trim/fascia are different. The fascia is butting up against the shingles. As someone here said a while back, a work of master crapsmanship is a wonder to behold.

Joe may be correct in theory, but my dad's house, a 45 yr old brick sided ranch on a vented crawl in Atlanta, has never had a problem with excessive moisture/mold/condensation/etc. Might be because half of it is a tall crawl (walkable - you have to lean over to get through the 60" door) --- I was just in there helping him get his mower started yesterday. I just don't see the types of problems Joe describes in vented crawls around here (unless there's plumbing or waste leaks involved.) But, i don't know nuthin' 'bout them houses up north....

OK... I'm the dunce.... Where is the comparison document?

I think it was 1963 (i said 1967 before the edit - duh) when Larry Morris rolled a little exta distance and took out Y. A. Tittle's left knee (though not because of a percieved blowout) --- End of the NY Giants title chances .... and effectively the end of Tittle's career. It happens.

It's listed here ---- http://www.thefreedictionary.com/occlude My Ol' Faithful 1987 Random House Unabridged doesn't include the referece to occluded light though --- six of one, haf dozen etc. I personally prefer clouded or fogged.

OK, just because it was Katen, I had to do it... You meant whet vice wet, didn't you? That is, unless you were implying that the useless pictures in reports bring customers to tears.... []

Uh, the house is an inanimate object. Can't be a client. Sorry. So, I must throw the home-inspector folklore flag. The house-as-client theory is a fantasy, and won't hold up to scrutiny. Did you hear that theory at HI school? Just curious. WJid="blue"> That's what I was told at HI school..--- "The house is your client; be fair to the house..." We had a biology Phd. in our home inspection class --- the instructor spent a lot of time with him during our breaks (many breaks) --- They're in business together now doing mold inspections and mold remediation. The training here (and at theother big HI discussion board) is better.

Thank, Jim, for clearing that up for me. My version is a foggy remembrance from basic electricity and elctronics training back in my younger days. My pastor also corrects me in my misstatements and non-systematic thinking. If only I had more mentors (now that I'm old enough to know to listen to them...)

When you measure across a DELTA 240 leg, you're essentially measuring across two 120V secondarys that are 180 degrees out of phase. 120v plus 120v = 240v When you measure across a the phases ofd a WYE secondary, you are measuring across two secondaries that are only 120 (i think)degrees out of phase (vice 180) , hence the nominal 208VAC vice 240. ....We really don't need to know this, do we.....

[:-graduat[:-graduatWhen I got off to university back in the 70's, my freshman composition prof gave me a C on my first, next, and every future essay for the quarter. I didn't change for her (she obviously didn't know what she was talking about) , and I ain't changing fer you ...[:-graduat[:-graduat

The wiki diagram you're looking at is three phase WYE (three phases measuring 208 V RMS phase to phase and 120 V RMS phase to neutral.) Katen is describing three phase DELTA, which measures 240 V phase to phase and 120 phase to neutral IF the windings are cnter tapped. The difference between the WYE and DELTA phase to phase voltages are a result of the different phase angles with the different configurations. Google delta and wye power or something similar, and the concepts should be explained somewhere out there....

How many of us REALLY think we need it?[]

From Rheem's generic Use and Care Manual for residential electric water heaters: "At least once a year, lift and release the lever handle on the temperature pressure relief valve, located near the top of the water heater, to make certain the valve operates freely. Allow several gallons to flush through the discharge line to an open drain." From a typical Rheem gas water heater user's manual: "At least once a year, lift and release the lever handle on the temperature pressure relief valve, located near the top of the water heater, to make certain the valve operates freely. Allow several gallons to flush through the discharge line to an open drain. NOTICE: If the temperature and pressure relief valve on the hot water heater discharges periodically, this may be due to thermal expansion in a closed water system. Contact the water supplier or your plumbing contractor on how to correct this. DO NOT plug the relief valve outlet." I exercise every TPR valve that isn't frozen shut (unless it discharges in a way that can damage something). I've left a few of them dribbling with a note to the homeowners to replace them (it helps to attach the note to the "routine maintenance" section of their water heater manual.) No callbacks from angry or litigious homeowners yet --- over TPR valves, anyway. Most of the "leakers" tend to slowly shut (or the rust/corrosion seals again) after ten or fifteen minutes, though. On these, I recommend replacement in the report. I do not consistently recommend exercising the valve in my report, though I usually talk about those things either during or at the end of the inspection.

just a Fall / October / All Hallow's Eve / Harvest season kind of thing?

I use the openoffice.org suit too. I haven't had any problem accessing anyone else's MS docs, spreadsheets, etc. I bought the cheaper MS OFFICE Suite (educational version for my homeschooler) and tried it for the sixty day free trial on my computer, but, alas, I'm too familiar with OpenOffice.org, and really enjoy the free updates/upgrades. I'v used it for almost four years now, and am quite comfortable with it. I don't think I'll ever go back to MS Office. (Now if anyone would come up with a modern day version of the old PC WRITE, I'd go with that in a flash....)

Max riser height is 7 3/4" in GA

http://www.gaf.com/Content/Documents/22740.pdf

Very cool, but, as you said, pretty simple to figure out. I won't spoil the fun (there are other places I go to for that) ....

Yeah, after I posted I thought (ain't that the case - for me anyway) about it, and figured you were talking about face nailing AFTER blind nailing.... Doesn't sound like a good idea to me either.

Looks like Mr. Bush forgot how to run upfield. First game jitters? I turned it off and watched the Middle Tenn/Louisville football and the DC United/Chivas soccer games instead.

http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/pd ... nstall.pdf I couldn't get the link in the original post to work, so I added this one to the jameshardie site. Les, according to the instructions, face nailing is OK with the Hardie folks. While my own is blind nailed ('cause I did it), I see all face nailed on new and recent construction around here. The nails are always (always) overdriven, in which case the instructions say to caulk over the original nail head and nail again.

Image Insert: 84.77 KB Image Insert: 37.6 KB Image Insert: 80.31 KB Image Insert: 53.4 KB

someone who uses exclamation points to excess !!!!

Just for fun, a friend led me to this web site for the latest doggie chew toy: http://www.vickdogchewtoy.com/