Bob White

0f course it's been a long time since I served, and I maintain all the respect in the world for these young people who serve (I even refrain from calling them "skimmer pukes" anymore), but, having served in the submarine force, I can't see where they're being "bottled up." Let's put them in a steel tube and sink them for a coupla months, and then see how well they get along.....[:-crazy] Seriously, though, these kids do an amazing job under some tough circumstances.

It's all about context...

Ya gotta keep clicking the outline section on the left til you get to the section / paragraph you want... Unwieldy, hard to navigate.

A standard HI licensing law, by the looks of it. Pass an 80 hour course and a nationally recognized test (read NHIE), or prove three years experience and 100 inspections and pass the test. The HI board will consist of a group of HI's, a GC, and a "civilian." We'll have to have "liability insurance" as determined by the board. 20 hours CEU per year, I think.... To cite code, the inspector must be certified by the certifying body for the code cited - IRC for residential structure, roofs, etc., IPC for plumbing, NEC for electrical, and so on. (I've been putting off certification, but since I regularly cite applicable code, I guess I'll be taking those tests.) There's no state mandated SOP --- yet.

Mine used solid conductor.... Image Insert: 129.21 KB but I think your's made better contact with the pipe....

Have you ever heard of a water heater that exploded because the TPR valve stuck shut or failed? - Jim Katen, Oregon A quick read at waterheaterblast.com and a few other sites revealed that in one (http://www.heraldandnews.com/articles/2 ... bruner.txt) out of the first six links I visited, the blast was reportedly due to a faulty TPR valve. The other five exploding water heaters had the TPRs removed, capped, or otherwise altered.

I'm currently having my basement finished so's my elderly parents can get out of their crime-ridden neighborhood and move in with us. One of the jobs that need to be done is to "push" all the DWV piping up to allow adequate headroom down there. I'll show this photo to the plumbing contractor --- horizontal traps are certainly space savers!

Could mean voltage approaching 240V --- I used to have a link to a schematic of a typical three lighter, but I can't find it now---- Anybody got one? edited to coooorekt speeling

I'd rot in three winters up there....

Wierd --- A couple of hours after reading this topic, I was contacted by an appraisal company in FL to do a roof inspection for an insurer of a house here in Cartersville. My first insurance inspectiion. Seems their aerial photos of the house in question show a possible hole in the roof and the want someone to go over and check it out - see if it's really a hole, a vent boot, or just a shadow. A quick and easy $99 (my single system inspection fee).

From www.360electrical.com ---FAQ page:

Ever since Popular Science told me about those flying cars, I've wanted one.....

Seems simple to me when I consider the labelling on the panel plus code.... It's OK to double up grounding conductors in that panel if the conductors meet the size parameters.... It's not OK to do likewise with grounded conductors, 'cause NEC prohibits doing so..... Unless I'm just dense today. What's the argument for multiple neutrals?

I swiped this photo from another inspection forum --- It was, according to the gentleman who posted it there, from the November/December (2007?) issue of IAEI News (the International Association of Electrical Inspector magazine) It points out the NEC violations involved with the bundled, unsecured NM cables entering the box.... Image Insert: 63.44 KB It's not too common around here, but I seen it a few times.

I think the point is mute by now....

To clarify GA code, guards are required on retaining walls attached to the house. The exact wordage is: I still point out, mention, and write a short statement about similar hazards that are NOT attached to the house.... I would do as much with the example Philip provided in the first post. if the builder thought it necessary to erect the guard at all, why did he not extend it to the end of the retaining wall?

I'll give two B&D autowrenches for that . . . .

The german trained mechanics I worked with used the derogatory term "Englander" for adjustable wrenches. They were dismayed when they saw one of us Americans pull one out of the tool bin. "Don't use an Englander for that! Go get the proper tool now!"

Well, think about just how many times you need an adjustable wrench for anything. Then think about paying anywhere from $19.95 to $29.99 (that's the price at the Sear's store where I'm working as a "Customer Solutions Consultant" during the HI/housing slowdown here) for a battery operated gizmo that does nothing more than open and close its jaws. If you think it's worth it, buy it. We can't keep the things on the shelf at the store (but it's mostly wives/girlfriends buying a gadget for their S.O.'s.) It'll amuse the giftee for a few minutes while he pushes the OPEN/CLOSE button a few times for each person he demonstates it to, then it'll go under the kitchen sink with the other wife tools. Now, with that said, if you come to my store, I'll work like the dickens to sell you a few, and the roll-around tool boxes to store them in....[^] "Would you like a table saw to go with that, sir?"

OK, I've zoomed in, but I still can't tell... Don, are there three conductors or four conductors going from the right e-panel to the left e-panel? I see the two ungroundeds, and I see a stranded AL conductor... Is there another?

Well, around here, CPES IS available at HD or Lowe's (I can't remember which one I bought it at.) I was actually there looking for marine epoxy, which I had used years before. They no longer carried that, but did have the CPES.

Of the Reliance electric water heaters, only the point of use 120 and 240 VAC models are listed for and (possibly) shipped with flex cords. The others are not, and do not give the installer the option to use flex cord in the Wiring section of the installation manual.

Wow. The cut angles of the siding planks and trim/fascia are different. The fascia is butting up against the shingles. As someone here said a while back, a work of master crapsmanship is a wonder to behold.

Joe may be correct in theory, but my dad's house, a 45 yr old brick sided ranch on a vented crawl in Atlanta, has never had a problem with excessive moisture/mold/condensation/etc. Might be because half of it is a tall crawl (walkable - you have to lean over to get through the 60" door) --- I was just in there helping him get his mower started yesterday. I just don't see the types of problems Joe describes in vented crawls around here (unless there's plumbing or waste leaks involved.) But, i don't know nuthin' 'bout them houses up north....

OK... I'm the dunce.... Where is the comparison document?