Robert Jones

This has probably been covered here before, and quite possibly a question I may have already asked in the past, my apologies! 3 tab shingle install, how much exposure is too much? Click to Enlarge 79.04 KB Click to Enlarge 81.04 KB

Lack of gutter at the second level, would you call this one? Is this considered a dormer? Click to Enlarge 43.36 KB

I watched a program the other night(Homes Inspection), actually just the first 15 minutes as that is all about his "inspection". Anyway, he made a huge deal about vermiculite in the attic that was covered by other insulation. He also made a huge deal about the tiles in the basement that "may" contain asbestos. I could have sworn that I read somewhere that as far as the vermiculite goes, that is exactly how to handle it... Blowhard!

Sounds like a case of a failed seal, especially if the streaking is between the panes.

Was there no weather barrier installed? The lap siding is not required to be installed on sheathing, it can be installed directly to the studs that have been "wrapped". Not sure about the shear strength thing...

Thanks for the replies and Gary is right on the money with this one. It wasn't just the one shingle flipping, there were numerous at different locations along that roof. My client was a young lady buying her first home and I explained to her that while they haven't blown off yet, there is a good possibility that they will in the future. First time buyers typically have no clue of repair cost and I tend to really hand hold them more than I would a client that is buying their third home for example. I have added a couple more pics I found. On a side note. This particular buyer is using a city down payment program that sends out their own inspector. On the last house I inspected for this client, they called out just about everything on my report and the seller refused to do the work so the deal was "killed". The home's that my client are looking at are in the 70-80k price range. That is on the low end in our market to say the least. That and they are typically in the 80-90 year old range. Not a good combination for the buyer and that assistance program to say the least.

Thanks guys. I have added a pic of the install.

The roof is approximately 5 years old and I called out the fact that they used architectural shingles on the ridge(that were flipping up of course) rather than three tab or ridge cap shingles. Here was the response to the buyer. "4. Regular shingles are commonly cut and installed on the ridge. The inspector himself estimates AT LEAST 10 more years of life left on the roof. The shingles are either 30 or 40 year shingles. Therefore, these shingles on the ridge have been doing the job they were installed to do for a long time, through many high winds and not one has blown off. In fact, the asphalt strip on the back, meant to melt down and adhere one shingle to the next has done just that, and pulling them off now may damage the rest of the roof they are adhered to. These shingles are not a problem. The inspector says the roof is watertight, Best to leave well enough alone." Click to Enlarge 63.48?KB Click to Enlarge 70.7?KB Click to Enlarge 76.62 KB Click to Enlarge 79.08 KB

Here is a response that the buyer received from the seller after I called for gutters to be installed on the home. Enjoy! "5. The house was built in 1921. There have never been gutters on the back of the house. There is no need of them. The eaves on the house deposit the water approximately a foot away form the house, which is further than a downspout would, and there is no erosion problem due to the fact that the water is not all coming out in one place. Nobody walks under these areas, and nothing here needs to be protected by water dripping off the roof. Gutters are not needed in these areas."

Thanks guys. I had called it and yes, the actual cast iron is about 2" below the rubber boot.

I say yes. Just seems to be such a large opening where the cast iron vent stack is. The just put a rubber boot around it. Click to Enlarge 73.97 KB

Check the insulation wrap. And yes to the professional service cause they will also check the pressure(s)...

Yeah this was an easy one. The client followed me all around the crawl cavity. Not a dry spot in that thing, which really made the crawl kinda comfortable!

Same home as the roof I posted earlier. This sump was installed at the outside of a very wet crawl space. It discharges in the middle of the back yard and will not turn on unless the "lid" is removed. It was obviously an amateurish job. Some channels were dug on the crawl space floor with white pipe(perforated) installed in some locations. What I found kinda amusing is the fact that the pipe is discharging directly under the foundation wall. Here are a few pics for enjoyment. Oh and of course with that constantly wet crawl space, it led to some unwanted insect activity as well. Click to Enlarge 64.08 KB Click to Enlarge 54.05 KB Click to Enlarge 51.35 KB Click to Enlarge 30.99 KB

This home was recently "renovated" and the roof replaced. See the three cans on the left side of the roof, that is it for the ridge area ventilation. The topper, each one of them is being used by either a bathroom fan or the kitchen fan. Click to Enlarge 58.86 KB

Thanks for the input guys. The people we are trying to purchase the home from haven't stayed on top of the exterior of the home in some time. It is a short sale so I think they mentally checked out a while back. The entire interior of the home was taken to stud in 2007-08, re-wired, re-plumbed etc... Since we put the offer in, I have gone over there twice(vacant) to clear the downspouts. I pulled out the "cage" type apparatus they had in the openings to try and let it drain a bit better. What about increasing the size of the downspout to say a 3"? Worth the hassle?

You know guys, I think it is granulated mod bit. No exposed nails, so has to be torched at the seams.

Ok guy's, so we have an offer in on a home that has a low slope roof with rolled roofing installed. No gravel, just sheets of comp. Have any of you owned a home with a flat roof and used a different(better) product? Thinking either pvc or tpo...I went up on the roof and in the area of the water runoff/downspouts, the granules are just falling off like crazy. Also, how about a decent way to protect the downspouts on a low slope roof? Pine needles are the main issue for blockage in my area. Thanks

All of the light switches were the older "push" type...

Home built in 1957, 125 amp Zinsco panel and this box next to it. What are these for? Click to Enlarge 55.05 KB

Had no idea that was the "technical" name for those. Thanks Jim.

Corn broom. Gotta look that one up.

Curious as to opinions on how to clean this moss buildup from this aggregate walkway. Would a strong pressure washing deteriorate the surface? Click to Enlarge 85.6 KB Click to Enlarge 126.22 KB

I have yet to run into an issue with PEX as far as the material goes. Can't say that about it's installation on a few occasion's. Just about all of the new construction in this area is run with PEX.

Doesn't look like a gas furnace so doesn't need to be elevated 18"(actually the burner compartment is what is raised 18"). Looks like you have an a/c unit attached to it as well. I would leave it where it be. I don't imagine that wall was there originally so my guess would be that it could be removed. Impossible to offer price quote.