Nolan Kienitz

Les - Best I could come up with for now.

Changes made and thanks for the proper information.

Jim -- Using your words ... you are a "cheapskate". I got an Olight M20-X Warrior flashlight well over 7 years ago with a rechargeable cell and have not broken or lost it yet ... or spent any additional $$ for cells, etc.. I also recall Kurt M. indicating that the light shroud on the light can be used to keep 'zoids' at bay. !!

RE: "Wiring" ... I've been "learned" that one of the reasons for the use of aluminum branching wiring was more evident (or possible) from the early to mid-1960s to mid and late 1970s (give or take) was due to the Viet Nam war. Due to copper being used for munitions, thus aluminum seemed to be appearing more in homes during that same time frame. I have no idea if that is actual fact or not, but does at least seem plausible. I used to suggest pig-tailing or the Alumicon products, but have stopped even that over past several years. I advise my client to have an electrician make sure the switches, receptacles, etc.. are all AL-CU rated. Early products used to be only CU rated. In my view the devices with the AL-CU ratings should sufficiently hold either aluminum or copper ... even with aluminum and its larger 'expansion/contraction' properties.

I only test AFCIs when the property is vacant or staged. Decided many years ago to skip testing the AFCIs when I was inspecting the home of a 'day trader' who had many computers, servers and monitors in his expansive office. I figured it would be in my best interest to not interrupt the power to those machines. Liability a bit too much for me in that situation. I do a very close look, however, for the 'blue button' Square D AFCIs that were recalled in November 2004. Still see some of them about from time to time.

Just checked mine and the mailbox is empty.

In the scheme of things home inspectors in Texas are small potatoes. The "zoids" and their state and national organization have all the control and power. The 'voters' (IE: homebuyers) don't want to get caught up in such petty things with TREC at the state level and the legislature. They only deal with an inspector when they buy their home (if then) and they follow along (in most cases) who their 'zoid' sends them to. Such an effort would also take time and money ... none of which comes easily for the small inspector community in Texas. Most of us who have dug in and fought over the years are now at the "winding down" stage of inspecting and are mostly just tired of the continuing b.s. from TREC and the legislature and the 'zoid' organizations.

I well understand. I am also very strong-willed and went toe-to-toe with TREC many times over the years. Many of my inspector friends have done the same ... but their political connections and lobby is beyond the reach for us inspectors.

No way in Hades will you or anyone else be able to change minds at TREC and the legislature. The Inspectors Advisory Committee (supposedly on the inspectors side) is definitely NOT on the inspector's side and they just do the bidding of the TREC Commissioners and TREC and the realtor's lobby is in bed with the legislators. Sad ... so very sad ... but it has not changed one iota in my 16+ years inspecting here in Texas.

As Jim L. (inspector57) mentioned our "beloved" TREC (HAH!) one of their recent new rulings is a mandate to the brokers/agents and their websites that a link to TREC for specific documents we have to present to clients has to be a 12-point font. They missed adding that mandate to the section of the rules that impacts inspectors, but we will also have it on the next go-round. What is funny is the 12-point font notation as if it is ink on paper. I don't think TREC realizes that sizing can be a touch different online and especially with the mobile devices. Of course there are many other things they are changing (always changing), but this one caught my eye as a bit of a humor and stupidity.

That would be the last thing I would want.

And then there is some "real steam" from a great locomotive .... UP at 75MPH ... Real Steam

Goodman/Amana was purchased by original folks and was taken private. At that time they did a serious turn-a-round to focus on "quality". I've been through their manufacturing, testing, shipping facilities in the Houston area. They used to be known as "builder's grade" or even less than that, but has changed once they took the company private. I had an Amana system (heating and cooling) installed at my home about six years ago and it is working very well.

Part of the problem might be that many installers might note be able to "read" ... in any language.

I'm not a 'stucco specialist', but I would suggest "ghosting" or "thermal bridging" of product under the stucco.

Someone started a fire and they forgot to open the damper.

You have presented a good approach to learning more about the HI business ... measured and thoughtful. Bill & Marc's comments are excellent. Marc is seriously focused on HIs have a good education and with being able to write a good, meaningful and non - b.s. report. As Bill noted and Marc has shown you ... the content of your report is what should be first/foremost. Don't get caught up in the many software packages ... they all want to sell you something new. Focus on basics. Spend some time to search the TIJ forum and you will find a lot of information about the 'written word' and what we try to or should be telling our clients. You will also find that Jim Katen (Oregon), Chad Fabry (New York) and many more are quite good with their verbiage. Don't make mountains out of molehills ... you are (or will be) an inspector and I can assure you that you are NOT a Pulitzer prize winning writer. When something is broke or not right in a home ... note it, describe it in a straight-forward fashion. No need for $25.00 words. You will find a recent thread with Jim Morrison (Boston area) who was a long-term inspector and is now a writer for a local newspaper. He has a great inspection history (having worked with his Father) and knows how to form words into meaningful sentences and paragraphs. He is providing input on reports we have written and things we have published and how it could be better. Reaching out to CREIA and planning for the NHIE are good moves and will serve you well. Welcome to a very educational forum.

This video was taken in Rolla, Missouri ...

FPE panels are accidents waiting to happen. Two homes in our development have caught fire due to failures of breakers in the FPE panels in the homes. The HOA for one 'high end' development in North Dallas sent a letter to all homeowners telling them that if their home still had an FPE panel installed they would have to replace the panel before the HOA would allow them to list their home for sale. This was several years ago and was an effort to deliver a message to homeowners to "pay attention" to the problems related with FPE panels. An insurance company in California will not write coverage for homes with FPE panels. And ... on it goes. FPE panels need to be replaced ... period!!

I just browsed through the thread again and note that you were considering an "on demand" (I'm guessing tankless) water heater. I don't believe the recirculating pump I mentioned and that Kurt linked in a few comments up are OK with tankless systems. I believe it is that tankless systems that don't "approve" such circulation pumps. Need to look into to verify.

In Texas I believe I'm accustomed to "livable" square footage. Down here beyond that the additional s.f. is porch, garage (attached or not attached).

Huge Misunderstanding: Contractor Guts Wrong House - Fort Worth

Erby's comment was far more "scientific". I would say the "blankie" got blown off the bed.

I've set the timer on the pump (at top of W/H) to turn on/off two different times per day. Morning and evening use basically ... a few hours on for the AM and PM cycles. Water diversion magic happens in the device connected to the Hot/Cold lines below the sink(s) in the 'distant' bathrooms. Sometimes have a bit of warm water when I first turn on the cold valve, but only about 2-3 seconds at most. And ... only notice that when the timer has cycled the pump to run. We love it. As I noted I used to have to wait 6-10 minutes to get hot water in those same distant bathrooms. That is a lot of water down the drain waiting for a shower.

I've been using one of those Watts recirculating pumps on my 50-gallon W/H and it has been flawless. 6-10 minute wait for hot water disappeared at the two bathrooms on the far side of the house from the W/H in the garage/closet. I also just replaced my A.O. Smith Vertex W/H with a standard A.O. Smith 50-gallon unit. The Vertex was only 8 years old and was massive loud with snap/crackle/pop and I had been cleaning/draining tank each year. Then the electronics unit started going wonky. I had to cycle power off/on to get it back to run. Found that cost for that controller and such was almost the cost of a new heater. So ... new heater is now in place.