Erby

I don't wanna see #45. I wanna see a picture!!!!!

Ditto Radalink. After a few years you may want to get your own, but Radalink's backup and support are invaluable when starting out.

Bummer, I get busy, don't check in, and something nice like this happens without me. Ya need more I'd be real happy to do something nice for Mike, but please, please, please, no one show him how to use portrait mode so he can do longer posts.

Don't matter now though I thought I'd uploaded three pictures. Anyway I suggested replacement or engineering approval letter. Roofer is taking the shingles and sheathing off and replacing the rafters with "real" rafters.

I'm used to seeing new rafters sistered in along side existing sagging rafters. However, today I ran into 1x8 sisters. I'm not sure of the correctness of this. Any thoughts. Image Insert: 76.12 KB

It was sent out to ALL the licensed inspectors in the state (that I have e-mail addresses for - about 360 of 400) a couple of times months ago and just recently. Those who paid attention to the e-mails I sent were well aware of it. A link to the actual bill is here. http://www.lrc.ky.gov/RECORD/08rs/SB22/bill.doc

I know it's pretty obvious and I'm sure you probably checked it, but occassionally, I'll find that a GFCI Breaker has been installed in the panel and that's the elusive GFCI that tripped and couldn't be found in an outlet.

That timed photo thing on the Sony Cybershot is a great tool. But alas, as Mike said!

Had a floater just a couple of weeks ago. Got about five feet in and realized it wasn't just wet and muddy by the entrance. Tossed a couple of rocks. Just like they were landing on the water bed, with the ripples and all. Declined to go any further until the water was gone. Image Insert: 37.23 KB

Thanks, Mike and Carl. Anyone else? Is there a retrofit for adding power vents to existing furnaces and water heaters.

Gary: Thank you for satisfying my curiousity via e-mail. I appreciate the time you took. Now I know what y'all were laughing at. Brian: A tactful brute that knows how to keep secrets. I'll have to teach you better!

I'm mature, but I still want to do what Brian want's to do, just not with him. I'd probably throw in swinging from the chandelier but it'd most likely break, so I guess it'd fit in the "breaking things" category. I'm not quite warm enough yet, Les. I am so dang curious about the street name. So many inferences, so little information!

inspect4u: Mike is referring to the dryer sucking combustion air out of the furnace, not heat and humidity. Heat & humidity from the dryer mostly go out the dryer vent pipe. Mike: Typing faster than you're thinking????? "the installer may have manufactured the manufacturer's listing." I know you meant violated, (didn't you?).

8 year old Rheem Gas Furnace and 8 year old Bradford White 40 Gallon Gas water heater are in a closet in the basement (with four louvered doors & plenty of combustion air). Closet is located, in the basement, about even with the right upper level window. Flue runs thru a chase and then vertical to the right side over the garage. (2nd story flue is for attic furnace and not part of the question.) Image Insert: 71.39 KB Water heater flue connects with a T instead of a Y. Lots of combustion condensate drippage. Image Insert: 58.91 KB The ceiling (bottom of the flue chase) where the flue goes vertical has been water damaged & repaired (combustion condensate is my guess because I got on the roof and didn't see any flashing problems around the flue on the roof) Image Insert: 18.91 KB So I told her to have it fixed by a yada yada HVAC guy. But, for my knowledge, how would you HVAC gurus fix it to eliminate the combustion air condensing and leaking back into the house?

I'm sure that one of the electrical guru's will be along shortly to answer, but in my experience: The pull out fuse block on the left is the main disconnect as that is where the Service Entrance Conductors (SEC) connect. The pull out fuse block on the right usually was originally designed to feed the electric kitchen range with 220 volt juice, though it may now be feeding something else. I'm not sure you can tell the fuse size without pulling the main block (thus shutting off all the electricity) but you can come close on service amps by wire size and meter size. Guess what size those SEC wires are or were they marked. The 15 & 20 Amp circuits were originally designed to feed all the other stuff, lights, receptacle outlets, etc with 110 volt juice. The panel to the left is a sub panel because the double taps at the bottom of the top fuse set are back feeding to the top right breaker in the sub panel. Yes the neutrals should float on a bus bar separate from the ground bus bar which should be electrically connected to the sub panel. The box to the right is NOT a 30 Amp breaker because it's being fed thru one of the 15 or 20 amp fuses.

Found that in a detached garage I did today. Clipped em right at the top of the boxes. All visible wiring gone. Image Insert: 64.72 KB Image Insert: 50.7 KB

Here ya go, Jim. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJDBRG5mnxk

Legibly. Asking a little much there aren't you Stewart. And ink?? Ya gotta be kiddig me. What if I want to change the use sometime? [:-slaphap[:-slaphap

Hey Stewart, Welcome to TIJ. It's nice to see another guy from Kentucky on here with me and John Bain. Give me a call sometime. I'll spring for a cup of coffee. -

Somethings you just don't need to say anything, but I did't want you to feel ignored.

Properly installed weeps would probably take care of it but I've seen an additional source of moisture where no one remembers to caulk the joint between the brick and the window and the mortar joints aren't done right. Big gaps would let tons of water in.

Should that say "Good roads to house" or "Good roads thru house" ?????

Perhaps that's why I need reading glasses to read news papers!

I use this language: =================== Drywall screws are being used to hold the attic drop down stairs in place. Most manufacturer's require size 16D nails to hold these stairs in place as drywall screws do not have sufficient shear (sideways) strength to support the weight placed on most attic ladders. For safety, I recommend that these screws be replaced with the requisite number & size of nails to safely hold the stairs in place in compliance with the manufacturer's instructions.

Lot's of plumbers (and my own personal experience) tell me the white mineral buildup is from a pinhole leak that has sealed itself shut. Green is usually flux related but could be flue spillage.